Nadhir

Just my two cents.

My dad has an X5 (2011) and this sounds similar to his issue. He has a diesel, though his car literally bounces as it's riding along and his engine is real loud and doesn't have much power. Mechanics were saying his Fuel Injectors needed replacement. They said only one or two needs replacing. He replaced them and it was fine and all until maybe a month later the same thing came up. They later said that he needed to replace another Fuel Injector. He replaced it and it was fine and all again until later on it started acting up again.

If you have issues with the injectors and one goes, they're all probably close to going bad anyway. You can be cheap and replace just what's required or just do preventative maintenance and replace them all if you can. You'll also save on labor charge as it's a one time thing aside from once a month visit.

On another note, my E60 had a little issue with the Eccentric Shaft Sensor going bad - it had some oil seeping into the sensor messing it up. My car would have issues starting and it took me a few attempts of the car choking before it turned on. While it was on, it was driving poorly and not shifting correctly. I read that you had issues starting and driving so maybe have a look at that? They normally go bad - as far as I know - when oil seeps into the sensor messing it up.

Along with the TPSM, they're like $20 or so from BMW. You can buy them individually and put them in, it's about 10 minutes of work I think since you have to take the tire off. If there's something else with that then maybe it's the system itself with the computer and not the TPSM in the wheel.

Also, with the parts, I also noticed my indy was shitting on my with prices and that I could find cheaper online. I told him and he said he would install but only fix something if they installed it incorrectly. If the item was bad that it would be on me. I didn't have an issue with that as I bought brand new stuff from sites with some rep who would replace. Guess what? Next time I had to have work done and he gave me a list of three items I think it was, he actually called me the next day saying that he had another guy who could give him a better price. His price then turned out to be better than the price I found online. They want your business, it's just that the prices are higher so they can make a profit on the parts.

The 535 is a beautiful car. Hopefully this gets fixed and you get to drive that when it's at 100%. My car itself had a few issues with the suspension and it drove like a totally different car once I got it all fixed, though it was a hassle as I kept getting the run around from my indy as he was telling me to fix one part after another. Seems like they like playing the guessing game.

dgreenzalis

Ok, I'll have to remember the eccentric shaft sensor if this doesn't fix anything!

Ya, as a hope to just fix it all at once I went the total replacement route.

Where did you find your parts online? I know NoQuarter reccomended FCPEuro and ECSTuning, which I looked at and referenced prices when talking to my indy. They basically said the same as your mechanic, that they could use parts I bought but wouldn't be liable if the part wasn't working. They didn't outright say they would cover it if it was their fault, but they aren't assholes (as far as I can tell yet) so I figured they will.

I was talking to the owner of the shop and he said that if I brought the parts then they would probably be less lenient on the cost of labor (aka charge more) and used the line "you don't bring your own eggs when you go to Bob Evan's" which I get, but if I ended up bringing my own parts and they charged more labor I'm pretty sure i'd still be saving money (just no warranty). I think moving forward I need to do my due diligence and look for parts, since in this instance it forced them to look into it on their own end, which sounds like what happened in your case as well.

Esmitty

n54 doesn't have eccentric shaft/valvetronic so don't waste your time chasing that. What part of OH are you in? I'm in Cincinnati area and I am a certified BMW tech

dgreenzalis

Columbus.

Its going into the shop in tonight/tomorrow morning, so hopefully by tomorrow afternoon i'll have some answers!

Nadhir

I used BavAuto and FCP Euro. BavAuto has a few bucks cheaper from what I noticed, but FCP has a lifetime warranty on everything they sell, even though it's a few bucks more.

Depends on the item and look at the price. If it's an item that should last forever, get it cheaper as long as it's OEM. If it'll break down in a few thousand miles, I'd go with FCP to get a free replacement. But look around more, maybe you can find a better site!

dgreenzalis

Update:

Got my Injectors replaced finally! It runs really well... except one little problem, which might not even be a problem. When I start my car, it starts fine but idles kind of high (at around 1000rpm). If I sit there and let the car idle for a bit it will eventually give a little shimmy and drop down to 750rpm and then eventually shimmy again and sit at 500rpm.

I have no idea if this is normal or not. Either way, its keeping me on edge on every drive. Whenever my car is idling I stare at the RPM dial waiting for it to flicker. If this is just normal then I can live with it, but so far I have no basis for what normal is with this car so I have no idea.

Nadhir

That is what happens to my car ever since I bought it over a year ago and never seemed to be an issue. I’m pretty sure that’s just how it warms up. The engine revs a little higher in the beginning to warm up and get oil circulating then lowers down to idle. I just sit in my car the 30-45 seconds it takes to rev lower before I start driving.

It revs at around 1100 at first then goes down to around 600 when it gets quieter.

audiophool

I'll drive off immediately after starting. There's no real reason to let it idle to 'warm up'.

dgreenzalis

Would your car do the "idle warm up" thingy if you just sat there?

Nadhir

Please tell me that’s a joke.