it is a process and toe just like any other component can fall out of place. its more common in cars who replace their rear control arms to after market ones but its still adjustable on the oem pieces.

 

Thanks for the tip bro, just got 2 new rears today so will keep a good eye on them and swap them on the rims when the time comes

Im not even gonna get an alignment, my fronts are perfect just the rear that was worn the hell out and since im not the only one that has experienced this i guess its a "common" thing.

My rears:

RIGHT WHEEL


LEFT WHEEL

 

Same tires i had, and got again today! lol

 

Here are some photos of mine. I didn't notice anything but when doing about 120 or so down the highway I would get this violent shake that seemed to only shake my back deck. So This is what I discovered....... This is about 20,000 miles or so. Notice how there is a bubble and metal showing but on only 2 sections of the wheel?

 

Damn, I didn't have bubbles!

Ever since i added my spacers i have had a little shaking @ 70-80 mph, cant really tell if its coming from the rear or the front or both... and i don't want to take one or two off to see which one it is...lazy

New tires didn't change anything though, it still shakes. I was kind of hoping it was just the tires, but no

 

I think if you adjust the camber the shaking will go away. I have the same issue but I always drive 60mph or below or 90mph and above so it doesn't bother me. But I probably will take it in to have the camber adjusted a bit. I mean it is in spec but I'd like to have more tire on the pavement and see if I can get rid of the shaking. It's not really bad at all. I changed the rear control arms (2 per side) about 35K mi. ago and had alignment done after that. They were within spec so were not adjusted. But if you have AS it could be that it needs to be recalibrated too. This definitely plays a part believe it or not. Do not ask me exactly how, but i had an issue until i hooked it up to the computer and re-adjusted the AS. The one you do in the vehicle is not the same, that's just calibration.

 

Ur welcome glad to help... I think u should still get the alignment and reduce the camber..to 1%,,, it will lengthen the time before u have to rotate them. and the cars weight will sit more toward the outside of the tire,, it will make a huge difference on the tire wear....

 

ya,, i see.... So thx ,,,,and glad u guys brought that up ( rear toe ) Never knew bout it and actually learned something about the geometrical axis on the rear suspention,,,

 

Most of the time, when you add spacers, you get a vibration. This is due to the fact that the tire and wheel combo are balanced without the spacer. It is not because the spacer is unbalanced but most balancers, will aks for rim diameter, rim width, position of wheel weights, and a measurement fo the inner wheel lip, in relation to the machine's hub (or offset). The last measurement will always will wrong, since the spacers are left on the car and not on the wheel. The offset (last measurement) will be off by the size of the spacers. The thicker the spacer, the more noticeable the vibration is.

Unfortunately, most large tire shops (America's Tire, etc) don't even want to deal with cars that have spacers. They will work on cars with hubcentric spacers but not just spacers, but I haven't gotten them to balance the wheels with the spacers. Maybe, I should talk to one of their store managers.

I have to look for a place that will work with me in balancing my tires/wheels in terms of balancing it with the spacers.

I still think you should have your car aligned as that tread wear is not optimal. Or you can continue to watch it but at some point, if you are using directional tires, you'll need to have the tires demounted, reversed and placed in the opposite corner for even wear.

Just my $0.02.

 

I'm speaking English. I am writing clearly. But to elaborate on your statements:

I spoke to the shop foreman today at a prominent BMW dealership in the state of Florida. There are 3 or 4 owned by the same company. He told me that ANYTIME you adjust camber, toe will automatically adjust as well and needs to be changed. It is the design.
Anytime you change wheels to a different offset and wider (they go hand in hand) then the camber/toe changes as well. I suppose this is why I have some slight shaking from 65-80 MPH and very slight at 85-95 and nothing from 100-135 MPH. I was thinking that since I have wider wheels I will have the camber adjusted a bit and check the toe as well. I have a lifetime alignment service but they did not know how to adjust camber/toe on the rear. Now I do so I'll be bringing my gloves and getting dirty when I have time.

So changing to wider wheels obviously one has to change the offset. When you do this you change camber because you are putting more stress on the components. When you change camber the toe is slightly changed as well as the vehicle moves.