Engine warning while accelerating cold.
12-20-2018, 09:03 AM
#11
New Members
I agree you should swap the coils to see if the problem tracks, but I'd put a new set of spark plugs in at the same time, especially if they've not been done in a long time. There are lots of parts that have to come off to access the coils, so I'd take the labour hit once. When you're doing the work, put the #7 coil over to whichever cylinder bank is easier to access, so that if the problem does move with the coil you're not facing the entire job twice - just the easier side.
The E-box fan may have failed or it's a residual code. The oil sensor code could also be residual from the old one that was leaking. I'd doubt the connector wasn't fully seated or you'd be seeing your oil light staying on. It would make sense to have the codes reset and see what comes back after a couple of days driving. Having the gearbox in DS shouldn't make any difference for a misfire.
The E-box fan may have failed or it's a residual code. The oil sensor code could also be residual from the old one that was leaking. I'd doubt the connector wasn't fully seated or you'd be seeing your oil light staying on. It would make sense to have the codes reset and see what comes back after a couple of days driving. Having the gearbox in DS shouldn't make any difference for a misfire.
12-22-2018, 05:51 PM
#12
Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ipswich Ma
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I went over the same piece of road, but this time the car was completely warmed up after 30 min of driving. Stepped on it, revs flew past 6k, no misfires. My problem of misfires only happens when the car is not fully warmed up.
i know you shouldn’t WOT a cold car, but I should be able to use 4000 rpms when entering a highway.
Again, anyone with a similar experience, I’d like to hear about it.
thanks,
Dean
i know you shouldn’t WOT a cold car, but I should be able to use 4000 rpms when entering a highway.
Again, anyone with a similar experience, I’d like to hear about it.
thanks,
Dean
01-28-2019, 07:23 PM
#13
Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ipswich Ma
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Problem finally solved.
Sunday I changed the spark plugs with new ignition coils and my cold engine WOT misfire problem is gone! Wahoo!
Years ago I changed my plugs at 60K, and with a 545i it was a real pain getting to cylinders #4 and #8, the ones nearest the firewall. I guess that's my excuse for waiting 100 before doing it again.
I remember that when I replaced the plugs at 60K, the car ran fine right from the 1st turn of the key. Not so good this time though. The first time I started the engine it ran horribly rough and the check engine light came on. Yikes! I read the codes and I had misfires on #1 and #2. While I was resetting the codes I got a battery low light. First one ever. To determine if it was coil problem or plug problem, I swapped coils 1 & 2 with 4 & 5 they Changed the battery a bit. Restarted again. Engine ran rough again with another check engine light. Code now says misfire on #7. WTF! I was expecting to see codes for either 1&2 or 3&4, Not #7. This discharged the battery again! The I-drive was blinking on and off! I suppose I could have failed to seat the coils on 1 & 2, but I really doubt it.
Now I'm freaking out as this is my daily driver and I've got to get to work tomorrow. What did I do? I recharged the battery, then swapped coil #7 with coil #5. Restarted and got the same misfire a #7. So not a coil problem. Lastly I swapped plug #7 with plug #6, and can't remember whether I swapped the coils or not.
By some miracle, the car started and ran fine! I went for a drive, and no issues. I think I got lucky. Today at lunchtime I tried the WOT with a cold car, and everything was fine. Original problem solved.
I still don't understand why I had so much trouble. If there was something wrong with the way I installed plug #7 why did cylinders 1 & 2, but not 7 misfire on my first startup? I have no idea why the startups with misfires drained down the battery each time? I charged the battery overnight and it's fine. I'm wondering if the computer had to acclimate itself to the new plugs and coils? Idk.
Well, with the new plugs and coils, the engine has a smoother idle and the car is sound. Sorry for the lengthy bandwidth. I appreciate those that offered their experiences.
Cheers!
Years ago I changed my plugs at 60K, and with a 545i it was a real pain getting to cylinders #4 and #8, the ones nearest the firewall. I guess that's my excuse for waiting 100 before doing it again.
I remember that when I replaced the plugs at 60K, the car ran fine right from the 1st turn of the key. Not so good this time though. The first time I started the engine it ran horribly rough and the check engine light came on. Yikes! I read the codes and I had misfires on #1 and #2. While I was resetting the codes I got a battery low light. First one ever. To determine if it was coil problem or plug problem, I swapped coils 1 & 2 with 4 & 5 they Changed the battery a bit. Restarted again. Engine ran rough again with another check engine light. Code now says misfire on #7. WTF! I was expecting to see codes for either 1&2 or 3&4, Not #7. This discharged the battery again! The I-drive was blinking on and off! I suppose I could have failed to seat the coils on 1 & 2, but I really doubt it.
Now I'm freaking out as this is my daily driver and I've got to get to work tomorrow. What did I do? I recharged the battery, then swapped coil #7 with coil #5. Restarted and got the same misfire a #7. So not a coil problem. Lastly I swapped plug #7 with plug #6, and can't remember whether I swapped the coils or not.
By some miracle, the car started and ran fine! I went for a drive, and no issues. I think I got lucky. Today at lunchtime I tried the WOT with a cold car, and everything was fine. Original problem solved.
I still don't understand why I had so much trouble. If there was something wrong with the way I installed plug #7 why did cylinders 1 & 2, but not 7 misfire on my first startup? I have no idea why the startups with misfires drained down the battery each time? I charged the battery overnight and it's fine. I'm wondering if the computer had to acclimate itself to the new plugs and coils? Idk.
Well, with the new plugs and coils, the engine has a smoother idle and the car is sound. Sorry for the lengthy bandwidth. I appreciate those that offered their experiences.
Cheers!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
paperslitter
E60 Discussion
12
10-11-2011 08:46 AM