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Hi,

I own a 2010 535i M-Sport & it’s an X-Drive, of course.. lol



So long story short, last week it gave me a “coolant low” message randomly when the car was first started, but then it disappeared 5 seconds later. So I thought maybe it was fine, but then I got the message again a few days later... so my brother topped up on some coolant but instead of using distilled water, he used ordinary water to mix it, due to the fact we were like 30 mins away from anywhere to even buy some.. another issue I’m currently having, is either the engine or transmission mount is going bad.. haven’t gotten to the exact problem but I’ve been driving on it for a few weeks now and it starts to shake pretty roughly when I put it in drive, but in park it’s nowhere near the same kind of shake.. and another issue was the car battery was pretty damn bad for a little while, so eventually had it replaced but the battery I got was an H7 and I don’t think it fully matches the battery needed in the car.. the one before it, wasn’t even nowhere near the right battery neither lol not sure why they had that smh.. and finally, I was messing around with a lot of the coding in protools and Carly, to try and get my Bluetooth codes to turn into the “enhanced Bluetooth something something” and scared I may have done something else by mistake? so I’m only mentioning these to bring me to the main issue I’m having at the moment.. in case they are related



Now.. I started to notice yesterday that my electric water pump/fan, was getting insanely loud, almost like a jet’s engine.. and that same day, I decided to put in sport and tried to push it a little at a red light next to another e60.. but I instantly got the yellow warning, about my engine tempature is too hot and to drive moderately to let it cool down.. got this same message again a few times now, but just now it turned into the red warning where it tells u to immediately stop and let it cool down



I know it’s most like the goddamn water pump (excuse my language) but could it be due to any of the other things i mentioned? Maybe it’s not defective and it’s just trying to work extra hard to cool down the engine right now? I’m not too experienced with these things as u can tell I’m hoping it’s not the actual pump itself at this point, so by some miracle, I hope it’s a much smaller issue.. any thoughts ? And the weird thing is, I don’t think any of my error codes have anything to do with this problem I’m having now.. the only thing I got yesterday out of the ordinary was 2F83 & 2F81 both read: “Engine switch-off time, instrument cluster - DME timer, comparison” but I’ve cleared them and they haven’t came back, even after I got the red warning any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.. I’m going to revert the coding for the radio and other sh*t I may have messed around with to see if it helps anyway thanks for ur time and help !!

 

It sounds like your water pump is failing. What's your coolant level? I'm not sure if Carly can read all BMW specific codes.

 

Just bled out the water pump for 20 mins or so.. it’s definitely flowing properly like I was told, and how it’s shown in a YouTube video for e60’s.. weird thing is, before I started the bleeding.. I tried turning the car on(don’t ask why I would turn it on before opening the cap lol and after letting it cool off for two hours too smh lmao) but the car wouldn’t even turn.. not even just the battery.. but I put the key in the ignition and it worked.. could these symptoms be because of the wrong battery I picked out a few weeks ago? I feel like that’s when all the problems began for me I got just a normal H7 from Costco 790ah I think?

 

I'm not understanding why you think you have a wrong battery. Your battery is good. It just needs to be coded and programmed. It's definitely not a 790ah and I think you mean 790 CCA. Also I'm not understanding why you posted those pics. It's not telling us anything. You need to post the codes.

 

sorry he asked me to check the coolant level with Carly but I couldn’t find it in e values menu so I was just teyna show him what the options were but I removed that post.

the car wouldn’t even start on comfort start earlier which was strange as sh*t lol and comfort access wasn’t working neither but if I put the key in the actual ignition it powered on which was the first time ever.. I just thought battery could be throwing things off if it was the wrong one? But like i mentioned, no error codes were coming up earlier and when I bled the pump out and opened it up it seemed to be working fine. Idk man but I do get the “engine reduced power” message from time to time, the sensor that throws that off should have been replaced but the previous owner cheaped out and kept just cleaning it.. so I think the “shut down” engine codes are from that and only other ones I have that keep coming back time to time are these:

 

I don't see much wrong with the car. You need to change your transfer case fluid and do a reset on it, check you front left parking sensor. I don't know why you bled the coolant system. Did you change the fluid recently and never bled it? Is the fan still turning fast?

Nothing is wrong with the battery you bought. Was it an interstate battery? Are you sure your alternator is good? Code and program the battery with Carly (your battery settings should be "B080 BATT_80AH //80 Ah-Batterie")

 

Just seeing that the water pump pumps is not an adequate test. That water pump is not like regular water pumps. It has its own variable speed motor.

You need to read the BMW specific codes.

When I said check the coolant level, I meant visually.

 

Protools is reading the battery registered at 110..?

and I bled it after getting a message saying it was low so when we topped up on it, the problems started eventually.. after a week or two so thought bleeding it would help maybe idk

it seems to have enough coolant to the eye.. and flows like how YouTube videos described it should look... not sure what to do anymore

 

110 is too high for that battery. Code it to 80ah acid battery. You're going to overcharge it and cause damage.

You know when the coolant is full by opening the reservoir and the stick should pop up to the second ball/circle. Whatever you want to call it. What type of coolant did you add. Was it blue or green. If the car had blue (BMW coolant) and you mixed green then you need to change the fluid in the system.

 

Anyone can post a YouTube video. You can't tell if it is variably working just by how it looks. You need to read the codes.