Bentley manual has this procedure:

1 - Switch ignition on (do not start the engine).
2 - Set temperature controls to full warm.
3 - Set blower control to low.
4 - Set seat heater control to maximum.

The procedure takes about 12 minutes.

 

Just tried that no movement. Even started my car with radiator cap open and no fluid movement, i believe coolant sensor is fine as it is measuring the temp fine. I started the car at 18 degree celcius coolant temp and after 2 min from start the temp went up to 24 degrees. But still no code for water pump. Is the water pump DIY hard? also is it a MUST to do the thermostat? the only sympton so far is the fan starts running full speed from cold start and doesnt stop. No over heat as of yet, but my drive is only about 5 mins long.

 

Probably bad water pump.

But, I can't believe you can drive the car for long at all. That the only thing that makes me wonder.

When my wife's X5 water pump went, she had left home and said she heard the fan come on continously within a mile from the house and the iDrive said "overheating -- stop driving", after no more than 3 miles from the house. It was October in Washington DC, so like 55F outside.

I haven't done the water pump in my 2006 E60, so I can't tell you what it is like on the E60.

I did change her's on the X5 and it was a bear. I ended up removing the passenger tire and wheel well lining to get at the water pump. Did most of the work though that opening. Also, removed the fan cowl and fan and pulled the water pump up in front of the radiator and out the top.

It is advisable to also change the water pump and any hard to get to hoses. I think there is at least one really hard to get to hose that goes from the thermostat to the water pump (at least there is on the X5). With the coolant that drained out, I needed a gallon of BMW antifreeze and a gallon of distilled water.

If you have ever done something of this magnitude before, you should be able to complete it in one weekend day if you have all the parts already.

 

Thats the same problem i am having. If its the water pump why doesn't it overheat (nor do i want it to overheat, and i also don't wanna take it on the highway and then have to call for a tow). But my 99% sure its the pump as the bleed procedure doesnt come on and my mileage suggest a new pump as i am at 106000 miles i might aswell change the pump. For now I ordered the INPA cable from ebay. Lets see how it goes, hopefully i will be able to read codes. I'll try to make a video if its the pump and IF i end up doing it (depends on my schedule). For now it will sit in the garage until the cable arrives.

 

As you point out -- at 106,000 miles, a new water pump isn't a bad idea regardless.

 

When doing the water pump bleed procedure make sure you step and hold the accellerator pedal DOWN TO THE FLOOR, not just stepping on it, for at least 10 seconds, otherwise the pump will not cycle.

 

Definetly the pump is not working when trying to bleed. I know there have been many revisions of the pump. Anyone know the newest part # and the best place to buy the cheapest pump?

 

e6t.lab.rat, thank you very much for the link to realoem.
I had not known about this.
Very helpful.....





carry on!

 

Just as a update to everyone, I replaced the waterpump without clearing codes and the problem was instantly fixed. Also the waterpump codes are only visible via INPA, my normal vehicle scanner did not show codes. When my INPA cable arrived, i checked the code history and it was the waterpump code, along with a bunch of other codes i need to check into. Thanks for all the help