E60 warm start issue
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Location: Monterey CA
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My Ride: BMW 2007 550i
E60 warm start issue
Hi there,
My first post! Thanks to all the moderators and others that have contributed. Ok, where to start. Well, I broke all the rules and took a chance on a 2007 550i with 140k miles which hasn’t seen the road regularly in four years but the car was essentially free. It’s been a project, but that’s fine, I’m expecting it and it’s more of a DIY project of love (I owned an 07 335i for 11 years…amazing car).
I have this strange issue where the car will start cold on the first try and run as long as I want the car to run (30-45 minutes no issues). If I shut the car off after it’s warm, the car will crank but not restart. It’s almost like there isn’t any spark.
I’ve scanned for codes and initially it was throwing a 2EEA Temperature sensor cooler outlet, signal and 2EE1 Coolant temperature sensor, plausibility. The radiator fan would also kick on high at cold start. I replaced the CTS and codes have cleared and fan doesn’t run until car is warm so I’m declaring victory there but the warm non-start persists.
I’ve also replaced the IVM after reading through the forums but still didn’t fix the issue.
A couple more clues; If I pull the fuel pump relay and try to start the car, it will fire up and rev to 2k rpm and then die. I’ve also replaced the fuel pump relay with a new one and have checked every fuse in the glove box and trunk. All fuses check out and the the fuel pump relay replacement didn’t have any improvement on the situation.
I’m thinking it’s fuel pump or camshaft sensor next but am looking for opinions and any other things to check/investigate. I have a scanner but it’s somewhat limited (no bidirectional control). The ECU codes are clear. The real-time data is coming through (89 sensors) but I don’t have a good way to capture or record it so a new xtool d7 shows up tomorrow which will hopefully let me test the fuel pump and see spark/injector data.
anyone else experience something like this? I saw a similar thread where the owner replaced the entire ECU because it was overheating and cooked. I’ll check those temps next time.
My first post! Thanks to all the moderators and others that have contributed. Ok, where to start. Well, I broke all the rules and took a chance on a 2007 550i with 140k miles which hasn’t seen the road regularly in four years but the car was essentially free. It’s been a project, but that’s fine, I’m expecting it and it’s more of a DIY project of love (I owned an 07 335i for 11 years…amazing car).
I have this strange issue where the car will start cold on the first try and run as long as I want the car to run (30-45 minutes no issues). If I shut the car off after it’s warm, the car will crank but not restart. It’s almost like there isn’t any spark.
I’ve scanned for codes and initially it was throwing a 2EEA Temperature sensor cooler outlet, signal and 2EE1 Coolant temperature sensor, plausibility. The radiator fan would also kick on high at cold start. I replaced the CTS and codes have cleared and fan doesn’t run until car is warm so I’m declaring victory there but the warm non-start persists.
I’ve also replaced the IVM after reading through the forums but still didn’t fix the issue.
A couple more clues; If I pull the fuel pump relay and try to start the car, it will fire up and rev to 2k rpm and then die. I’ve also replaced the fuel pump relay with a new one and have checked every fuse in the glove box and trunk. All fuses check out and the the fuel pump relay replacement didn’t have any improvement on the situation.
I’m thinking it’s fuel pump or camshaft sensor next but am looking for opinions and any other things to check/investigate. I have a scanner but it’s somewhat limited (no bidirectional control). The ECU codes are clear. The real-time data is coming through (89 sensors) but I don’t have a good way to capture or record it so a new xtool d7 shows up tomorrow which will hopefully let me test the fuel pump and see spark/injector data.
anyone else experience something like this? I saw a similar thread where the owner replaced the entire ECU because it was overheating and cooked. I’ll check those temps next time.
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