E60 front and rear jack points
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Originally Posted by joewatch' post='496793' date='Nov 20 2007, 09:47 AM
Can somebody post some photos on where to position a floor jack to change my tires?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by ExGMan' post='496795' date='Nov 20 2007, 09:59 AM
There are tiny (maybe 1/4") triangle-type markers on the lower part of the car, just aft of the front wheels and forward of the rear wheels which mark the spots for the jack. You might want to consider buying the BMW kit of jack, torque-wrench and chock for about $140. The jack is much stronger than the jack in the trunk, and the torque-wrench makes sure you don't overtighten.
Speaking of torque wrench, anyone knows what lb/ft to use for the wheel nuts?
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My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
BMW lists the spec at 120 Nm (plus or minus 10 Nm).
http://forums.e60.net/index.php?s=&sho...ost&p=38029
That converts to 88.50745454 foot pounds according to the following site:
http://online.unitconverterpro.com/u...ha/torque.html
http://forums.e60.net/index.php?s=&sho...ost&p=38029
That converts to 88.50745454 foot pounds according to the following site:
http://online.unitconverterpro.com/u...ha/torque.html
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Originally Posted by ExGMan' post='496795' date='Nov 20 2007, 09:59 AM
There are tiny (maybe 1/4") triangle-type markers on the lower part of the car, just aft of the front wheels and forward of the rear wheels which mark the spots for the jack. You might want to consider buying the BMW kit of jack, torque-wrench and chock for about $140. The jack is much stronger than the jack in the trunk, and the torque-wrench makes sure you don't overtighten.
#6
Originally Posted by ExGMan' post='496795' date='Nov 20 2007, 03:59 PM
There are tiny (maybe 1/4") triangle-type markers on the lower part of the car, just aft of the front wheels and forward of the rear wheels which mark the spots for the jack. You might want to consider buying the BMW kit of jack, torque-wrench and chock for about $140. The jack is much stronger than the jack in the trunk, and the torque-wrench makes sure you don't overtighten.
there is no jack in my car since i got runflats. I went to tires shop and had my summer to winter tires changed for only 25 euro's quickly earned by them since it took them only 10 minutes
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Originally Posted by Westcoast M5' post='496863' date='Nov 20 2007, 12:42 PM
This is what you need. It comes with the jack, tire wrench, wheel chaulk and a pair of gloves. The jack points on the car have a recessed rectangular space the the jack fits into. If you stick your head under the car all will become clear.
Attachment 40805
Attachment 40807
Attachment 40805
Attachment 40807
Actually, what I was referring to was using a floor jack of this type: floorjack
which is much less expensive, but sturdier and safer than using the BMW jack. However, it is not compatible with the jack pads, and should be applied somewhere at the center of the car under one of the structural elements. Does anybody know where the best place to apply it is for the front and rear?
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Originally Posted by joewatch' post='496886' date='Nov 20 2007, 01:25 PM
which is much less expensive, but sturdier and safer than using the BMW jack. However, it is not compatible with the jack pads, and should be applied somewhere at the center of the car under one of the structural elements. Does anybody know where the best place to apply it is for the front and rear?
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Looking at the BMW TIS - tells us nothing!!
If you are using a four point lift, then you have to fit blocks to the lift pads that go into the receptacle in the sills, according to Mr. BMW.
Thinking logically then, just cut a block of wood (or plastic) to fit into the receptacles (using your standard scissor jack as a template if you have one), and then use your trolley or floor jack with this - the point is obviously strong enough to bear the weight of the car or you wouldn't be able to change the wheels at the side of the road!
Usual Politically Correct disclaimers apply - use axle stands (where?), don't go under the car when it's on the jack (as if you would ) etc. etc.
Mike
If you are using a four point lift, then you have to fit blocks to the lift pads that go into the receptacle in the sills, according to Mr. BMW.
Thinking logically then, just cut a block of wood (or plastic) to fit into the receptacles (using your standard scissor jack as a template if you have one), and then use your trolley or floor jack with this - the point is obviously strong enough to bear the weight of the car or you wouldn't be able to change the wheels at the side of the road!
Usual Politically Correct disclaimers apply - use axle stands (where?), don't go under the car when it's on the jack (as if you would ) etc. etc.
Mike