Xak87

Hi guys! Need some help with my e60 530d 04 mod!

I've just changed my active steering control unit for a second hand one, the one under the passanger seat. Had to change it after a water damage to the floor. Been driving with a damaged control unit for about a year now before finally replacing it with a unit coming from an 04 model aswell. The unit won't connect properly with Ista+ and keeps telling me to check the harness that plugs into the module, which I did, cleaned it and nothing changed.. it actually just got worse. With hard acceleration driving down the road, the car gets a sudden "blackout".. Idrive goes on and off, red dynamic drive light, and the instrumens just jumps up and down.. engine revs up, kinda like it goes into neutral gear for a second.. This happens if i push the car hard up to 2-3000 rpms.. other warning lights can be transmission fault, parking lighs, SOS system. It sometimes goes into limp mode.
New battery and voltage regulator, all registered. MPM module and battery clamps is fine.
So I'm without a clue now what it can be.. since none of this ever happened before changing the module, even when I drove with a none functioning one.
Any thoughts what to check?

seanjordan20

What process did you use to replace it. Was the battery disconnected before installing? Did you ensure there was no corrosion on the new model? Have you tried disconnecting the module and see if it makes a difference? Have you tried to install the old one to see if it changes? I think you can open that module up to see if it is corroded inside?

Xak87

Yes, the battery was disconnected while installing the new one. No corrosion on the new one, and I cleaned the pins and sprayed som electrical cleaner on them. I did try to reinstall the old one, but nothing changed. The car is absolutely crazy, so I'm even beginning to think that it has nothing to do with the active steering unit. While driving at low speed, with just a little pressure on the throttle i's like every electronics in the car shuts off for a second. The car even hesitates and is blinking a whole bunch of error lamps in the dash. Idrive goes black, on and off. I'm clueless what to do...!!! anyone?

seanjordan20

Check the module under the spare tire for corrosion then check the module under the passenger side air filter. Also have the alternator checked

scottalexander

With all the electronics crazy-ness, let's look to the obvious:

- examine positive battery cable from battery to terminal jump block
- is terminal jump block loose?
- examine ground straps, cable
- check trunk for water
- check eBox for water
- confirm 14v coming from alternator

Xak87

Terminal jump is ok, trunk and e-box is fine too. Alternator is charging 14v. Ground cable good too. Where does the positive cable run through from battery to terminal? Down the right side of the car?
Also if I shut the door hard or even hit the tow hook with something while the car is off with the key out!!, the rear lights turn on and won't shut off, the instrument in the dash light up and the car won't start. Come back in half an hour everything works again..

Xak87

So I just checked my alternator today, in the menu and it's charging around 14,7-15,3V at idle and sometimes as high as 15.5V when driving. Could this be the cause for these blackouts that keeps on happening when accelerating? Too much voltage and the modules "short" out for a second? Voltage regulator was replaced a year ago, alternator is old

scottalexander

Here's some historical BMW thinking:


The voltage you are talking about is on the high side.



Normal e60 system voltage for charging a battery in good health that is over 80% charged is generally 14.1v- 14.3v. For accelerated charging in cold weather the ECM may in rare instances charge AGMs as high as 14.7v and FLA as high as 15.5v as directed by the ECM/CAS based upon IBS feedback.



FLA type batteries (and the car's electrical system) can easily take 15.5v and the ECM may drive system voltages that high if the battery state of charge is low, the ambient temperature is very low and the battery negative terminal temperature is low. Damage to electrical modules could begin at 16v.



If you have an AGM battery registered and the alternator is putting out 15.5v then you can be sure your alternators voltage regulator is going bad (the ECM would never let a registered AGM battery see more than 14.7v).



If the system voltage is always above 15v or jumps wildly up and down to below 12.5v then it is the voltage regulator.

seanjordan20

Have you check to see what errors the system is throwing. 15.5 is high and being that it's a new battery it should not get that high.

Xak87

Haven't run the car in a diagnostic tool, but brake pad, dynamic drive, sos phone, transmission all occur at once when it happens.. could be down to the car being overcharged?