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e60 Control Arm Wiggle Wiggle Wiggle.. (video)

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Old 06-12-2013, 05:05 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by pjk0159
So it looks like I need to replace the whole control arm. Should I go OEM or Lemforder? Is it because of the cheaper price point? Also, is there anywhere I can find instructions or a DIY on installing the control arms? I can't seem to find any detailed info on this on the forum. Don't wanna under/over torque anything.
You can try to save on other parts. For entire control arms [or bushings alone], I'd go with Lemforder. In this case, you definitely get what you pay for.
Old 06-12-2013, 05:12 AM
  #22  
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Lemforder. I got all of my parts from pelican.
Old 06-12-2013, 07:52 AM
  #23  
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I fear this may be my issue as well but I'm looking for a reputable mechanic to take my car to. Does anyone know of anybody on Long Island?
Old 06-12-2013, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by andymax
Where did you buy them for that price?? I've not seen anything even close to that price...Has anyone else?
Amazon.com is where I bought them.for my 2005 545i. I would assume pricing for all E60 models will be in the same ballpark.
Old 06-12-2013, 12:33 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by pjk0159
So it looks like I need to replace the whole control arm. Should I go OEM or Lemforder? Is it because of the cheaper price point? Also, is there anywhere I can find instructions or a DIY on installing the control arms? I can't seem to find any detailed info on this on the forum. Don't wanna under/over torque anything.
I wrote a very detailed description awhile back. I think Achtung60(?) did so as well. And I believe there is another detailed post as well but can't remember who wrote it.

It's not the torque that's the issue (although that matters) but pre-loading with 550 lbs of strategically placed weight on a full tank of gas. Yes, it sounds like something out of the 1920's, but be forewarned, it's in your interest to do so.

If you don't preload, you'll be complaining that Lemforder sucks because you had to replace the arms 15k miles later.

I started a post about BMW Master Technicians that are now operating Indy shops. Nobody seemed interested, but if you were in Atlanta, I had three options for you.

Search Google for: "BMW Master" "Long Island" and see what you get.

Lemforder IS the OEM control arm for the E60. (Right down to the forged lettering on the arm (w/o the BMW logo.) Pelican, FCP, Amazon, etc are places to look.

But first go to "BMW of South Atlanta" and that parts dept will provide the EXACT online BMW part # to reference for your car. With that number you can accurately search the aforementioned for pricing.

Last edited by paran; 06-12-2013 at 12:37 PM.
Old 06-12-2013, 05:42 PM
  #26  
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The Bentley manual is pretty clear about the removal and installation of the torsion struts along with all of the relevant torque values. While pre-load is relevant with regards to wheel alignment, it is not necessary to pre-load the suspension in the same fashion when installing the torsion strut. The suspension must simply be fully settled with the full weight of the vehicle on its wheels before tightening and finally torquing the bushing bolt. This is a fairly common procedure with rear control arm bushings.

If folks are having the torsion strut bushings fail prematurely it is likely because they fully torqued the bushing into position when the suspension was in full droop. When this is done, the moment the vehicle is dropped on its wheels the bushing becomes twisted way beyond its design limits when the torsion strut tries to rotate on the bushing axis into a normal position.

If anyone is contemplating performing this work themselves, I highly recommend reading the Bentley manual beforehand.
Old 06-12-2013, 08:04 PM
  #27  
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Get the Meyle arm with hd bushing:
http://www.meyle.com/_download/techn...10-2010_en.pdf
Old 06-13-2013, 05:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by travisbickle
The Bentley manual is pretty clear about the removal and installation of the torsion struts along with all of the relevant torque values. While pre-load is relevant with regards to wheel alignment, it is not necessary to pre-load the suspension in the same fashion when installing the torsion strut. The suspension must simply be fully settled with the full weight of the vehicle on its wheels before tightening and finally torquing the bushing bolt. This is a fairly common procedure with rear control arm bushings.

If folks are having the torsion strut bushings fail prematurely it is likely because they fully torqued the bushing into position when the suspension was in full droop. When this is done, the moment the vehicle is dropped on its wheels the bushing becomes twisted way beyond its design limits when the torsion strut tries to rotate on the bushing axis into a normal position.

If anyone is contemplating performing this work themselves, I highly recommend reading the Bentley manual beforehand.
Same twisting applies to a vehicle that is not preloaded although it sits on ground. BMW requires preloading based upon "Normal position" criteria which is 550lbs of dead weight on a full tank of gas.
Old 06-13-2013, 06:35 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by paran
Same twisting applies to a vehicle that is not preloaded although it sits on ground. BMW requires preloading based upon "Normal position" criteria which is 550lbs of dead weight on a full tank of gas.

You should inform the writers of the Bentley BMW 5 Series Service Manual. The "Normal loaded position" you keep referring to is only specified by BMW in preparation for wheel alignment. The tension strut bushing has a +/- 5 deg alignment deviation tolerance. Loading, or more appropriately, orienting the torsion strut beyond settling the suspension with the vehicle weight on its wheels isn't going to make much of a difference in eliminating any additional stress that leads to premature bushing failure. There are no vehicle load related suspension geometry changes that need to be account for unlike when doing a wheel alignment.

As I said, for anyone contemplating servicing their own vehicle, invest in a set of the Bentley Service Manuals. They are an authoritative source of information regarding how these vehicles should be serviced.

For the guy that asked about tightening torques...


Last edited by travisbickle; 06-13-2013 at 07:18 AM.
Old 06-17-2013, 09:27 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by travisbickle
You should inform the writers of the Bentley BMW 5 Series Service Manual. The "Normal loaded position" you keep referring to is only specified by BMW in preparation for wheel alignment. The tension strut bushing has a +/- 5 deg alignment deviation tolerance. Loading, or more appropriately, orienting the torsion strut beyond settling the suspension with the vehicle weight on its wheels isn't going to make much of a difference in eliminating any additional stress that leads to premature bushing failure. There are no vehicle load related suspension geometry changes that need to be account for unlike when doing a wheel alignment.

As I said, for anyone contemplating servicing their own vehicle, invest in a set of the Bentley Service Manuals. They are an authoritative source of information regarding how these vehicles should be serviced.

For the guy that asked about tightening torques...
Perhaps Bentley says so, but according to BMW, the following is correct:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ps09c944d3.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ps2f1dde30.jpg

So, BEFORE you torque those bolts, make sure that the car is properly preloaded according to BMW.


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