2010 E60 535IX 190,000 miles. Battery draining if not driven for 2-4 days. It dies overnight if the IBS is disconnected. It dies in 30 minutes if sitting in the car after turned of and key is in ignition yet. Battery has been load tested and checked good.
Checked alternator, charging fine. When checking the diodes with the alternator disconnected,
I am getting .596 with red lead on case, black on post.
Getting 2.69 when black lead on case, and red on post. In this position, I can test 4-5 times and then it changes to Open Loop. (It should be "0" or Open Loop) This indicates that the diodes are not working correctly and I need a new alternator.

In searching the internet, it appears that most people pull the intake and/or oil filter housing in order to remove the alternator. I dont care to go that route as the intake was pulled for valve cleaning just last spring. I read one post where the AC Compressor was moved slightly in order to remove the alternator. Is there a write up somewhere that discusses the best way of removing and installing the alternator?

Thanks in advance

 

pelican has one. but yea i believe youre going to need to remove the manifold at least a little bit to remove it, its not really a big deal.


most of the time, "shortcuts" end up taking longer or making you do extra work for little reward.

 

Thanks for the feedback, unfortunately the set up in that vehicle is different than the Turbo model.