nish

My pre-lci 535d 70k on clock has started to burn oil. It doesn't constantly do it but it does start to smoke once I drive about 5 mins, then it stops for sometimes... it seems to be getting worse... usually it doesn't smoke after I stop / start the engine...

There is a faint burning oil smell in the cabin too... I am fearing it may be the turbo...

Has any of you guys experiencing this issue and is it maybe the breather valve or something ££ like the turbo...

Any help appreciated

A B Able Truck

Oil consumption was excessive - It smoked - I was told I needed valve stem seals

My car (didn't pass smog & couldn't renew registration);
2006 BMW 550I – 92,000 miles – V8 (N62TU)
Smokes (white/gray/blue) – failed visual – Smog Report (15 mph – HC ppm Measured 91 – Max. 49)

Symptoms & history;
It used oil (approx. 1 qt. per 2-3 tanks) and I read the history of V8 valve stem problems (internet & local shop research), I was about to have the valve guide/stem seals replaced or drive the car off a cliff. But it didn’t have the classic symptoms of defective valve stem seals/guides. It also ran like a rapped ape (old school for ran great). I’m a heavy truck mechanic with old school car experience (35 years). The plugs were clean and the exhaust smelled funny, also the exhaust dripped clean water no matter how hot or long it ran. I pulled the intake throttle housing and noticed excessive oil. Replaced the (ccv) diaphragms in the valve covers (torn) & read up on the cyclone oil separator (like a Dyson vacuum). Because I wasn’t happy with the oil consumption & residue in the intake, I fabricated a Scotch Brite pad filter with screen for each valve cover vent outlet. As well as a pre-filter for the CCV diaphragm base. This cleaned out the oil residue and has greatly reduced oil consumption while allowing crankcase recirculation. I pulled the spark plugs and stuck a camera down a couple plug holes. Yes, the top of the pistons were loaded with carbon. So I sprayed Sea Foam in each plug hole, followed by a shot of low pressure shop air to help spread it around the piston. I let it sit for an hour or so, then reinstalled the plugs. I topped off the fuel tank with high octane and added 12 oz. of CRC Fuel System Cleaner (part #05063) to the tank. 100 miles later and what a difference – no smoke or water dipping out the exhaust after warm up.

****This note was copied from a BMW Technical Training manual
Note: If the exhaust system produces blue smoke, it is necessary to check whether the engine is also drawing oil into the combustion chamber through the crankcase breather, which suggest that there is a fault in the area of the crankcase breather. A clear sign of a problem is an oiled up clean-air pipe.

****The valve stem diameter was increase at a production point (you would assume) to remedy the guide problem. I don't believe BMW would use inferior stem seals after this change, if ever. My vehicle has now passed smog test & no longer smokes. I did have to run the proceedure twice before it lowerd the HC levels within specs. I will probably was the Chevron fuel treatment from this point on. (See attached TS It cost me $200 to fix compared to the $4000 > $5000 I was told it would take for a guide/seal replacement.
SI B 13 05 06 & SI B 13 01 07

**** Day 35 - 1200+ miles later NO smoke or excessive water from tailpipe - It also **** Does not need any oil ****
For those of you seasoned mechanics replacing guides & seals - This worked for me - my vehicle - my situation - but I believe you should diagnose each vehicle on an individual basis - Regardless of BMW guide/valve stem history.