Dealership says BMW recommends to replace rotors when replacing brake
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Joined: Jan 2009
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Do it yourself, save major cash and be happy with it. I had my front pads and the rear rotors and pads under maintenance warranty for free.
Almost wish I didn't. Soon after they replaced my front pads I got the Hawk HPS from Michael (acuteperformance), I am MUCH happier with those than the OEM pads. The OEM pads sqeak and produce TONS of dust!!! Then I got the rear pads and rotors replaced under warranty and still have the OEM on the rear, they squeal like a stuck pig.
When replacing yourself a little advice:
1) Get a brake rotor tool that makes it easier for you to push the piston in the rotor back in (got mine at Sears for about $3)
2) ALWAYS clean the rotors before mounting, they come with an greasy anti-rust coating for shipping.
3) remove the cap to your brake reservoir and put a paper towel or a CLEAN rag over the hole. When you push the piston back in you force fluid back into the reservoir and it can leak out (which is REALLY bad for the painted parts of your engine bay).
As for the bedding process - it's difference when you are using performance brakes like the Hawks as opposed to OEM brakes. I went to an industrial area near my house, did 12-14 runs of 10mph-60mph-10mph. The keys to note are: 1) NEVER let the car come to a full stop, 2) Keep doing it until you smell the brakes and they start to fade a little. This means the "bed-in" coating on the pads has burned off and they have left a nice coat on the rotors and you are good to drive as normal.
Follow the tips and the video and you should be good to go, good luck
Almost wish I didn't. Soon after they replaced my front pads I got the Hawk HPS from Michael (acuteperformance), I am MUCH happier with those than the OEM pads. The OEM pads sqeak and produce TONS of dust!!! Then I got the rear pads and rotors replaced under warranty and still have the OEM on the rear, they squeal like a stuck pig.
When replacing yourself a little advice:
1) Get a brake rotor tool that makes it easier for you to push the piston in the rotor back in (got mine at Sears for about $3)
2) ALWAYS clean the rotors before mounting, they come with an greasy anti-rust coating for shipping.
3) remove the cap to your brake reservoir and put a paper towel or a CLEAN rag over the hole. When you push the piston back in you force fluid back into the reservoir and it can leak out (which is REALLY bad for the painted parts of your engine bay).
As for the bedding process - it's difference when you are using performance brakes like the Hawks as opposed to OEM brakes. I went to an industrial area near my house, did 12-14 runs of 10mph-60mph-10mph. The keys to note are: 1) NEVER let the car come to a full stop, 2) Keep doing it until you smell the brakes and they start to fade a little. This means the "bed-in" coating on the pads has burned off and they have left a nice coat on the rotors and you are good to drive as normal.
Follow the tips and the video and you should be good to go, good luck
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I complained about my front brakes squealing a few months ago even though iDrive said I had 16k miles until service. Dealership replaced pads and rotors without question.
If you aren't the original owner of the car and this is the first time for a brake service, I'd lean toward new pads and rotors for peace of mind.
The right sized C-clamp is also effective at pushing the brake piston back into the caliper to make room for new pads.
If you aren't the original owner of the car and this is the first time for a brake service, I'd lean toward new pads and rotors for peace of mind.
The right sized C-clamp is also effective at pushing the brake piston back into the caliper to make room for new pads.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2009
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I complained about my front brakes squealing a few months ago even though iDrive said I had 16k miles until service. Dealership replaced pads and rotors without question.
If you aren't the original owner of the car and this is the first time for a brake service, I'd lean toward new pads and rotors for peace of mind.
The right sized C-clamp is also effective at pushing the brake piston back into the caliper to make room for new pads.
If you aren't the original owner of the car and this is the first time for a brake service, I'd lean toward new pads and rotors for peace of mind.
The right sized C-clamp is also effective at pushing the brake piston back into the caliper to make room for new pads.
I'll take your advice and go ahead and replace the rotors as well, just for peace of mind and save the hassle of having to do it later. Thanks!
And thanks to everyone for the great info on here!
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From: San Jose Ca.
I didn't replace the rotors, I just installed all new pads.
Mistake I made : I didn't replace the sensors ( stupid )
If you don't replace the sonsors then you can't clear the Brake code off the dash.
It's VERY easy to replace the sensors, they just plug in.
Mistake I made : I didn't replace the sensors ( stupid )
If you don't replace the sonsors then you can't clear the Brake code off the dash.
It's VERY easy to replace the sensors, they just plug in.
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From: S. Fla
Is it wise to just replace the rotors and replace the pads later on when I need them? Also, what is the biggest rotors we can fit with the stock calipers/pads? Looking for something drilled and slotted.
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NEVER replace the rotors unless you replace the pads as well.
New pads and old rotors are ok, old pads and new rotors are not, high spots on the old pads will cause localised heating on the new rotors and warp them. In addition, parts of the pad will not touch the new rotors, reducing braking power considerably.
New pads and old rotors are ok, old pads and new rotors are not, high spots on the old pads will cause localised heating on the new rotors and warp them. In addition, parts of the pad will not touch the new rotors, reducing braking power considerably.
