Crispius

Long time lurker, first time poster.

My iDrive controller malfunctioned, and I purchased a used one out of the UK for about $100. I asked the dealer if they could slap it in while they are doing warranty work today, but they said it will take 4 hours of labor ($125/hr) and will require coding. They said it could be upwards of $1,000. The car is in the shop for valve cover gasket replacement, coil pack, oil cooler and filter gasket replacements. I have the tools to switch it out at home, but I was under the impression that this is just plug and play because its just a controller.... same part number and everything.

Does anyone know if this is true?

KyleB

I've never heard of anyone having to do any coding for a replacement controller.

Crispius

I haven't either, that's why I was asking. Still waiting for repairs to be finished at BMW shop now. BTW it is a 2009 528i w/o nav

KyleB

plug and play. just looked at several threads on other sites where CCC to CIC controller swap was plug and play, so it would make no sense that you would need any coding to replace what's in there to begin with.

your dealer is misinformed. sometimes there is more misinformation at the dealer level that you would think.

Crispius

Thanks for your reply! I think those asshats really would have tried to charge me 1,000 to pop some panels, remove a parking brake boot, unscrew a couple screws and connect a wire. It is sad that they are so misinformed, or that they choose to rape people's wallets.

BTW last two trips to dealer they told me my brake pads were dangerously worn, and that they should be replaced immediately. I replaced them last weekend, they looked about as worn as the new ones.... I changed front and rear for under $100 using bosch pads and new sensor wires, rotors seemed fine. They quoted me over a thousand for that job also, and said they always have to change the rotors with the pads.

audiophool

In my experience, dealers are always out to maximize their take on any repair. Buyer beware.

I keep an eye on my brake pad thickness (check twice a year at tire changeover) and generally replace when the pad is about as thick as the backing plate and have had the 'dangerously worn' line as well. My reply was that unless they're nearly at the metal plate they're fine, and I'll do them myself, thanks. But, most modern BMWs wear the rotors at about the same rate as the pads, so changing rotors at the same time as pads isn't wrong - just that they'd need to be almost gone for that.