brendinernst

So my 2004 530i just hit 119,000 and when I was cleaning out the engine bay the other day I noticed some oil on the right hand side of the engine below the manifold. After a while I was able to trace the leak down to the Crank Case Vent Valve. I just wanted to give everybody a heads up if your car is around 100k you may want to check it out. One easy way to find if it is leaking or not is to follow your dipstick to the bottom where it connects to the engine. You will feel a hose that connects right at the bottom and goes straight up. Rub your hand up along this hose as far as you can. If your hand has oil on it afterwards... it's leaking. I just ordered the CCV Valve kit which includes the valve and the four hoses that connect it to the engine. I could not find a DIY but did find one for the E39 which is similar but not exact. I will be doing a full DIY for anyone who is interested. Will hopefully have it posted in the DIY section sometime tomorrow. I am told this job can take 2-3 hours so you will have to be patient while doing it but it can be done without removing the manifold.

cals

I did the CCV on my e39 and it took me at least 8 hours over a weekend; removal of some pieces was quite difficult despite that I was following a very detailed DIY so plan accordingly.

I have been looking for a DIY for the e60 and found only vague references; will try to post the link if I find it; the procedure seemed mostly the same but the removal of the top portion of the cover is quite different as the e60 has the bracing at the rear of the engine; regardless if you can take pictures will be great I may need to do this to my car in the spring....

Cheers

cals

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https://5series.net/forums/topic/110...parator-issue/

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slicknick

You should also look at replacing the hoses. I did the CCV valves and later found that the hoses were falling completely apart. The have redesigned the hoses because they needed to be better insulated so they fumes wouldn't freeze in cold weather. Check out this video.

BMW Crankcase Ventilation Hose Replacement Part 1 - YouTube

ncsugrad2006

Couple of tips on a N62 CCV valve change:

1 - the new "version" of the larger hose has two separate hoses, each with only two ends. The crazy snake looking thing connecting all 4 ports is gone.

2 - the old style CCV valves caps have a small hose that run from the cap (at the valve cover) to right before the throttle body. The new version does not have this. You can remove these small hoses, just cap off the port at the throttle body that is leftover.

3 - if you don't want to do that, you can re-use the old caps and just put in new springs/diaphragm. Just be careful taking them out and it's possible to get them off without breaking any tabs

KyleB

I'm bumping this thread as a friendly reminder for everyone with an M54 powered car to check your CCV valve AND all of the associated hoses.

I also had an oil leak, with a lot of oil residue on the left side of the engine. What I found was every single CCV system hose was insanely brittle, and the oil return hose from the CCV to the dipstick was completely severed.

At 103K, I replaced the CCV valve and all hoses. Most online BMW parts retailers will sell the whole thing as a kit. Don't forget to buy a new throttle body gasket, as well as a new oil dipstick o-ring; they aren't packaged with the CCV kits.

Bill109

ah this is good to know.
To the OP: which motor do you have m54?
if you do ill be looking forward to seeing a DIY as my car could def. use this procedure done. ive got 140k on the clock on my m54.

KyleB

There are a few DIYs floating around already. There is a lot of disassembly involved just to get to the point where you can access the CCV valve and lines. I'll offer a few pointers that weren't out there:

-buy a new throttle body gasket and oil dipstick o-ring. They are not packaged with any of the CCV 'kits', but you'll need them because you do need to remove the throttle body and dipstick.

-you'll want to remove your dipstick and make sure the drain inlet isn't clogged. the best way to do it is get a piece of thin gauge wire, attach it to a drill, and ream out the inlet. I used the 'G' string from my acoustic guitar blow through the inlet when you're ready to put it back in - if you get a steady stream of air coming out, you're in good shape.

-It is nearly impossible to install the CCV valve with any of the hoses 'pre-attached'. It's going to seem counterintuitive once you go to put it in. take your time, be patient, don't get frustrated. install the CCV valve without any hoses attached.

-it's OK to put pressure on the valve cover to CCV valve hose when installing it. It's going to seem like it's one inch too tall. it isn't. put pressure on it to install. You won't break it.

good luck. I like to consider myself a confident mechanically inclined person, and it still took me 3+ hours. It's not a difficult job, but some parts of it are tedious, frustrating, and time consuming.