twh

If the pedal isn't working, the problem with the pedal may not be a burned out clutch. Now, you may have burned out the clutch as a reult of that problem.

Generally a pedal not working is going to the clutch hydraulic system not working or possibly a broken clutch release fork. I've had both of these happen in other cars. One car I had needed the clutch hydraulic system bled every year or the clutch master cylinder would just get enough dirt and water to die on its own - and then the pedal would go to the floor and stay there. I've also had the clutch release fork break and the clutch be at the floor and non-functional.

Margal

Thanks
Clutch is non-functional right now. If this is hydraulic system problem do I have to replace slave cylinder or master cylinder to fix it and make Sure that this won't happen again on the highway. I thought that manual transmission had less problems but I am regretting that I got one.

scb88

Mine did the same. Clutch pedal did nothing when it went, put it to the floor and zero change. Mine went two days after I purchased the car, only 63K at the time. The lining on one side of the clutch was completely gone, and the other was very thin. I had a local indi shop put in a full clutch kit. All good now...

Margal

This means that I am not alone but I odered a slave cylinder and going to change it anyway because I do not want same thing happen again
Thank all for your help

gotpowr

Probably best to do that, I always used to replace it when the clutch was replaced.
Replacing the fluid (which will have to be done when doing the slave) is good too. It can get worn and burnt and cause issues.

twh

You have to determine what's wrong. Is the pedal to the floor and it won't pop back up? What if you pull the pedal up with your hand - does it stay up?

If you are capable of DIY investigation, you can figure this out with some work and a helper. Jack up the car, support with jack stands, remove the shield that covers over the transmission (a bunch of screws). Locate the slave cylinder.

Part 13 is what it looks like on a 2006 530xi: http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E6...lutch_control/

Notice the pin coming out of part 13. That is what pushes out and retracts back when you push the clutch in and let it back out. If that pin is way over-extended, then it could be something bad inside the clutch like the clutch fork. If the pin is not over-extended and doesn't respond to pushing the pedal in and out (pull it out by hand), the the hydraulic system is not working correctly. The general idea is that the pin extends out with the pedal down and retracts with the force of the clutch engaged (pedal up) and pushing the fluid back towards the clutch master cylinder and therefore the pedal pops back up. The clutch pedal has a spring on it under the dash as well to "help" it pop back up. See: http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E6...helper_spring/

I suppose it could be that spring is broken, but I've never seen that happen. That spring is not enough force to pop a pedal back up if the hydraulic system is failed.

If you determine the hydraulic system has failed, it could be any number of reasons. Best to figure out why. First thing should be to bleed the clutch system to see if that cures it. After bleeding, look around for leaks. If that works, you might be fine forever or for awhile.

If you see leaks, figure out where and replace that part. Replacing the clutch slave cylinder isn't very hard - it is accessible. By the picture, the clutch master cylinder looks not bad, but I don't know how hard it is to access and remove and replace. If it is easily accessible, I'd just do them both. If you replace one or both, you need to flush the brake fluid in the clutch master and slave.

YMMV

.:reza:.

what are you guys getting quoted for a clutch job?

my car has a lot of chatter for the last year , I've been driving it slow but I know the time will come to change it..
is it a pretty difficult job ? I am mechanically inclined when it comes to japanese four cylinger cars , never worked on a bmw myself..

insight please !?

Mordor110

Ditto Reza, me too done a lot of work on Honda's, clutches etc. Switched to BMW's a couple of years ago and learning how to work on them. Some of the stuff is easier than the Jap cars, some stuff not it seems. Biggest thing to have is special tools and manuals. I'm gonna need a clutch job soon too so looking forward to some responses. There are some details but doesn't look too hard from what I've seen so far.

Mordor110

Here's another thread on clutch work:

https://5series.net/forums/topic/119...endations-diy/

Margal

My car still in shop and I hope it will ready for tomorrow>
After seeing that thread I was thinking to do it myself but washing the shop guys straggling to remove lot of parts I am glad i did not. you have to use a lift and need a helper otherwise doing it on jack stands and alone will brake you neck and back. if could take me 2-3 weeks to do this kind of job. I am not discouraging you but in my opinion it is worth to pay someone $600-1000 bucks to do it. I gonna let you know how the thing gonna turn out after my car is done,