Car won't start!!!!!! help please
11-30-2010, 03:05 PM
#21
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yes, battery 
The key is a piece of metal nothing special. I don't believe it needs to recognize the key. You have a bypass right? Stick the key in and try it. There is no electronic part of that piece of metal that will keep your car from starting. The metal is cut for your ignition and that's that.
Now go take a 7/16" and 10mm socket and go get yourself a battery and swap it out. If I'm wrong, return the battery. Nothing to lose. Now if I'm right...............
This is not the same mechanic that towed the car by the front right?
The key is a piece of metal nothing special. I don't believe it needs to recognize the key. You have a bypass right? Stick the key in and try it. There is no electronic part of that piece of metal that will keep your car from starting. The metal is cut for your ignition and that's that.
Now go take a 7/16" and 10mm socket and go get yourself a battery and swap it out. If I'm wrong, return the battery. Nothing to lose. Now if I'm right...............
This is not the same mechanic that towed the car by the front right?
11-30-2010, 03:27 PM
#23
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My Ride: 2006 530i
yes, battery
The key is a piece of metal nothing special. I don't believe it needs to recognize the key. You have a bypass right? Stick the key in and try it. There is no electronic part of that piece of metal that will keep your car from starting. The metal is cut for your ignition and that's that.
Now go take a 7/16" and 10mm socket and go get yourself a battery and swap it out. If I'm wrong, return the battery. Nothing to lose. Now if I'm right...............
This is not the same mechanic that towed the car by the front right?
The key is a piece of metal nothing special. I don't believe it needs to recognize the key. You have a bypass right? Stick the key in and try it. There is no electronic part of that piece of metal that will keep your car from starting. The metal is cut for your ignition and that's that.
Now go take a 7/16" and 10mm socket and go get yourself a battery and swap it out. If I'm wrong, return the battery. Nothing to lose. Now if I'm right...............
This is not the same mechanic that towed the car by the front right?
. And no the mechanic is not the person who towed the car 
lol. Isn't there a chip inside the key that plays a partial role? If not it'll be pretty easy to boost one..Same thing happened to me. Here is the thread from when I had the issue (although it's very likely yours is due to something else):
My thread
My thread
11-30-2010, 03:38 PM
#24
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Not sure I agree with the bad battery diagnosis. Assuming the mechanic was somewhat competent, it seems the battery is fine. When my battery went, noting came up at all. No lights, no music and no I-Drive. Silly question,but has anyone checked the starter? Does the starter click when trying to start the car? Is this comfort access push button start? Do your brake lights come on when pushing on the brake? It seems like the car doesn't know the brake is depressed. Bad sensor? It sounds weird but it has happened.
Oh and a battery is not $67 dollars. I was quoted 400 dollars for a battery and registration from the stealer. My battery alone was 200 dollars. Don't skimp out on the battery on these cars. This car requires an adequate power source to run it's electronics properly. The battery in my E60 is double the size of the battery in my Tahoe.
Oh and a battery is not $67 dollars. I was quoted 400 dollars for a battery and registration from the stealer. My battery alone was 200 dollars. Don't skimp out on the battery on these cars. This car requires an adequate power source to run it's electronics properly. The battery in my E60 is double the size of the battery in my Tahoe.
11-30-2010, 04:31 PM
#25
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My Ride: 04' 545i, Sport Package, Black, Active Xenon, ARS, Aux Input
'10 Tahoe, Black on Black, leather, Nav/XM, 20" tires, full body kit, power 2nd row, loaded
'93 Jeep Wrangler, lifted 4.5", 33" meats, Rampage Recovery Bumper w/Tire Swing, etc
25' Aquasport Osprey, Center Console,2012 200 HO Etec
Not sure I agree with the bad battery diagnosis. Assuming the mechanic was somewhat competent, it seems the battery is fine. When my battery went, noting came up at all. No lights, no music and no I-Drive. Silly question,but has anyone checked the starter? Does the starter click when trying to start the car? Is this comfort access push button start? Do your brake lights come on when pushing on the brake? It seems like the car doesn't know the brake is depressed. Bad sensor? It sounds weird but it has happened.
Oh and a battery is not $67 dollars. I was quoted 400 dollars for a battery and registration from the stealer. My battery alone was 200 dollars. Don't skimp out on the battery on these cars. This car requires an adequate power source to run it's electronics properly. The battery in my E60 is double the size of the battery in my Tahoe.
Oh and a battery is not $67 dollars. I was quoted 400 dollars for a battery and registration from the stealer. My battery alone was 200 dollars. Don't skimp out on the battery on these cars. This car requires an adequate power source to run it's electronics properly. The battery in my E60 is double the size of the battery in my Tahoe.
11-30-2010, 04:39 PM
#26
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Oh and a battery is not $67 dollars. I was quoted 400 dollars for a battery and registration from the stealer. My battery alone was 200 dollars. Don't skimp out on the battery on these cars. This car requires an adequate power source to run it's electronics properly. The battery in my E60 is double the size of the battery in my Tahoe.
11-30-2010, 04:45 PM
#27
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Yes a BMW battery will cost you that much. Why would EVER pay that much for an inferior battery? He asked about the key. Not the keyfob or the chip. The chip on a normal key (no keyfob/pushstart) has nothing to do with starting the vehicle or disabling it. People fail to read the entire posts and then others chip in...a derivative of a derivative of a derivative..... this thread is starting to remind me of religions.
11-30-2010, 04:59 PM
#29
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My Ride: 04' 545i, Sport Package, Black, Active Xenon, ARS, Aux Input
'10 Tahoe, Black on Black, leather, Nav/XM, 20" tires, full body kit, power 2nd row, loaded
'93 Jeep Wrangler, lifted 4.5", 33" meats, Rampage Recovery Bumper w/Tire Swing, etc
25' Aquasport Osprey, Center Console,2012 200 HO Etec
Yes a BMW battery will cost you that much. Why would EVER pay that much for an inferior battery? He asked about the key. Not the keyfob or the chip. The chip on a normal key (no keyfob/pushstart) has nothing to do with starting the vehicle or disabling it. People fail to read the entire posts and then others chip in...a derivative of a derivative of a derivative..... this thread is starting to remind me of religions.
Inferior as the battery may be I simply agreed with another member that a battery is about that much...and why would you use a generic or non BMW battery after telling people in posts not to use anything but certified BMW techs? I am confused... but either way I am not here to fight with you.
The fact is I dont think its either the key or the battery. Maybe I am wrong, but the beauty of the forums is to give a number of opinions, differing as they may be, so the OP can hopefully formulate a plan in the right direction. Unless you know the EXACT CAUSE, which you dont, you should just relax... take it all in.
11-30-2010, 08:51 PM
#30
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My Ride: 2008 528i / 475 / LCSW / ZPP / ZSP / 205 / 4BY / 508 / 609 / 6FL
Oh and a battery is not $67 dollars. I was quoted 400 dollars for a battery and registration from the stealer. My battery alone was 200 dollars. Don't skimp out on the battery on these cars. This car requires an adequate power source to run it's electronics properly. The battery in my E60 is double the size of the battery in my Tahoe.
If you got a voltmeter, then there's a real simple test you can do to see if it's the battery - measure voltage at the battery while starting. If it's at or below 10v, then your battery is headed out the door...
Michael.