Can i kick down new 535d?
11-16-2005, 10:30 AM
#11
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My Ride: MY RIDE is DA real .-) HAMANN 5 aka BLACK MAMBA born on 16/06/2005/delivered on 05/08/2005 as following:
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Originally Posted by gordank' post='198940' date='Nov 16 2005, 02:37 PM
Few days ago i get my new 535d (today cca 400km), so i'm interessted as everybody says differrent can i drive my car normaly or must pass some period before i start to push him
what I know about the diesel break-in, as I did I went to 200-210 but shall not go over 3000rpm THAT is what is important no hard breakings deff no kick down until 1500kms no manual or ds!!!!
My car was about 500km when I started to go home (1700km and the same on the back!) so in the middle around 900s it started to became more smooth and then at 1600kms I tried first the ds and then the manual-not much need on the Autobahn generally- after 2000kms I KICKED the ***** off mine is decreased by BMW for the moment
to "only" 210bhp and it felt and feels like it FLY!!!So be patient, hope that long stuff helps you...
11-16-2005, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by gordank' post='198940' date='Nov 16 2005, 08:37 AM
Few days ago i get my new 535d (today cca 400km), so i'm interessted as everybody says differrent can i drive my car normaly or must pass some period before i start to push him
Those engines are made to last, and also keep in mind that bmw and i think almost every car manufacturer uses higher numbers for the brake in just because to have a back-up for people that don't mind too much.
I readlined it at around 1500km maybe 1400.
11-16-2005, 11:15 AM
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My Ride: 530 2006
msport package, steptronic, pdc, mystik blue, grey dakota leather, sunroof, Bi-Xenon, heated rear seats, Hi-FI system, velour carpets
I know it's tempting but wait until 2000 km.
11-17-2005, 03:12 AM
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My Ride: Oxford Green E60 530D with tuning box and all the toys!
Well I hate to disagree, but I think the very worst thing you can do is baby this engine in the first months of its life. The problem is that even at 100mph plus you are only doing 2-3000rpm and the engine really needs to operate over a spectrum of revs to bed the rings properly etc. I agree that thrashing it from day 1 would be foolish, but so would driving at motorway speeds day in day out with no variation. Also, it is not just the engine that you are running in - the whole drive train is bedding in too. So, the BMW protocol is fine, but you really do have to get those revs up to 4000 plus on a few occasions. You will also notice that the engine won't loosen up for at least 5000 miles or more. The performance increases dramatically after this and you will know instincitvely when the engine is ready to be really let off the leash.
Don't fret about turbos - they are really very rugged despite all that you hear. You really have a great car - best 5er short of an M5!
Don't fret about turbos - they are really very rugged despite all that you hear. You really have a great car - best 5er short of an M5!
11-17-2005, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by golfnut' post='199418' date='Nov 17 2005, 12:12 PM
Well I hate to disagree, but I think the very worst thing you can do is baby this engine in the first months of its life. The problem is that even at 100mph plus you are only doing 2-3000rpm and the engine really needs to operate over a spectrum of revs to bed the rings properly etc. I agree that thrashing it from day 1 would be foolish, but so would driving at motorway speeds day in day out with no variation. Also, it is not just the engine that you are running in - the whole drive train is bedding in too. So, the BMW protocol is fine, but you really do have to get those revs up to 4000 plus on a few occasions. You will also notice that the engine won't loosen up for at least 5000 miles or more. The performance increases dramatically after this and you will know instincitvely when the engine is ready to be really let off the leash.
Don't fret about turbos - they are really very rugged despite all that you hear. You really have a great car - best 5er short of an M5!
Don't fret about turbos - they are really very rugged despite all that you hear. You really have a great car - best 5er short of an M5!
Apparently, soot can collect in the exhaust system if you drive carefully and this can cause an MOT failure because they blast the engine and it can release the trapped soot. Best advice is to 'clear' the exhaust before inspection with a good session of revs
11-17-2005, 06:50 AM
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My Ride: In a place where the Mercedes density is the highest in the world (no. of MB per square kilometer) I choose a Bimmer, why? because of one thing "The Ultimate Driving Experience"
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Originally Posted by golfnut' post='199418' date='Nov 17 2005, 08:12 PM
Well I hate to disagree, but I think the very worst thing you can do is baby this engine in the first months of its life. The problem is that even at 100mph plus you are only doing 2-3000rpm and the engine really needs to operate over a spectrum of revs to bed the rings properly etc. I agree that thrashing it from day 1 would be foolish, but so would driving at motorway speeds day in day out with no variation. Also, it is not just the engine that you are running in - the whole drive train is bedding in too. So, the BMW protocol is fine, but you really do have to get those revs up to 4000 plus on a few occasions. You will also notice that the engine won't loosen up for at least 5000 miles or more. The performance increases dramatically after this and you will know instincitvely when the engine is ready to be really let off the leash.
Don't fret about turbos - they are really very rugged despite all that you hear. You really have a great car - best 5er short of an M5!
Don't fret about turbos - they are really very rugged despite all that you hear. You really have a great car - best 5er short of an M5!
11-18-2005, 03:54 AM
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There is a stong argument (you can read about it on the net with some very compelling proof) that an engine should be given hell from the word go, followed by an oil change at 100 miles, and thats it.
It apparently helps bed the seals and other bits of the engine in much better than pansying around.
I didnt red line my 535D for 100 miles (gave it plenty of stick though) and then after 100 gave it death.
I then had it DMS's at 1700 miles.
To be honest, I will have the car a maximum of 3 years (whilst in warranty) and then it will be gone. I bought the car for me, and not the future owners. It is the same as puting seat covers on your car...why?! Saving the seats for the next owner?? Bah bu**er that.
Also, when you buy a second hand car, are you gonna ask or be able to prove that it was run in according to manufacturer guidelines?
The moto is 'Drive it like you stole it'*
*When traffic conditions allow
It apparently helps bed the seals and other bits of the engine in much better than pansying around.
I didnt red line my 535D for 100 miles (gave it plenty of stick though) and then after 100 gave it death.
I then had it DMS's at 1700 miles.
To be honest, I will have the car a maximum of 3 years (whilst in warranty) and then it will be gone. I bought the car for me, and not the future owners. It is the same as puting seat covers on your car...why?! Saving the seats for the next owner?? Bah bu**er that.
Also, when you buy a second hand car, are you gonna ask or be able to prove that it was run in according to manufacturer guidelines?
The moto is 'Drive it like you stole it'*
*When traffic conditions allow
11-18-2005, 04:15 AM
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To be honest, I will have the car a maximum of 3 years (whilst in warranty) and then it will be gone. I bought the car for me, and not the future owners. It is the same as puting seat covers on your car...why?! Saving the seats for the next owner?? Bah bu**er that.
Also, when you buy a second hand car, are you gonna ask or be able to prove that it was run in according to manufacturer guidelines?
Also, when you buy a second hand car, are you gonna ask or be able to prove that it was run in according to manufacturer guidelines?
) Although my servicing is covered I'm a little concerned about 'other' problems... (I had an adaptive headlight fail for example - I reckon that would be ?500 easy to get fixed)
Originally Posted by Chris535D' post='199941' date='Nov 18 2005, 12:54 PM
The moto is 'Drive it like you stole it'*
*When traffic conditions allow
*When traffic conditions allow
11-18-2005, 04:26 AM
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Never been a great fan of kickdown on Auto generally. It never feels a very mechanically sympathetic action at any mileage. My preference is to knock into Sport when you are in a situation where overtaking might be required and downshift manually in readiness if you really need to hurry. Much easier on the transmission, engine and neck.
It can also be easier on other parts of the body, as kickdown is not disabled on activation of the cup holders
It can also be easier on other parts of the body, as kickdown is not disabled on activation of the cup holders