pjk0159

Thanks guys, but I'm really not concerned with what type of rotors I have. In fact, I just wanted some regular ones, but the mechanic just recommended this one, saying that it's cheaper than oem. I don't think it looks cool, and I just hate that my brakes stink now.

Thanks Turbo, I'll try scuffing up the pads with some sandpaper. Are there special instructions when I try to "bed" it again? Also, are you sure it's OK that the brake pad is sticking out beyond the edge of the rotor?? I can't help but to think that this could adversely effect performance. When my pads gradually wear out, wouldn't it wrap around my rotors around the edge, and theoretically retain more heat, like a blanket?

I don't know if my mechanic used proper procedures to install the pads and rotors. In fact, I don't even know what brands he used. How do you "bed" a braking pad? Don't you just slap it on and go? If all else fails, I I'll take it back to the shop for de-glazing, but I read somewhere on this forum that brake shops can't (or will not) resurface slotted rotors. True/false?

So the blueishness means that it's overheating. Ok, well why do you think this is happening? I don't abuse my brakes or ever ride it out.

pjk0159

Sorry for the double post, but I'll try sanding the surface with this technique I found on the web:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?...ic=87761&st=20

I'll let you guys know how it goes and update you on any improvements that I have. Hopefully this well help others that have this glazing issue.

tonyb635

I am a little confused in general about the bedding procedure itself and when is it needed. I heard always, but then I've also heard that only when you add pad and not rotors because now you have to bed the pad to the old rotor. The also said that if both are new, then technically it not needed since bedding is supposed to set the pad and clean the rotor or something. It seems as there are several opinions out there on what to do and when to do it. When I changed mine, I kinda did it I guess, and I've had no problems at all but I am still confused if rotor and pads are new is it really required. From my opinion, it seems that it could only help.

vkhong

Bedding-in heats up the pad and softens it, so that the pad leaves a layer of pad material on the rotor. When replacing only the pad, the rotor should be resurfaced for best bed-in result. Brakes work best when there is a layer of pad material adhered onto the rotor surface.

Bed-in procedures varies by manufacturer and pad material composition. Hawk Performance bed-in procedure for their Performance Ceramic for reference:

• After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
• Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
• DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
• Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down (by driving).
• After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.

BMW OE pads are soft, dusty and sticky. Pad material is left on the rotor without special effort. BMW does not recommend bed-in for their pads.

Brakes work by the pads heating up from the initial contact friction, and then turning soft and sticky from the heat. The pad adhesion is what stops the rotor. Ceramic pads require higher operating temperatures to be sticky, thus the higher heat and blue color rotor surface.

Stop Tech: Bed-In, Abrasive Friction and Adherent Friction

I used R1 slotted rotors on my previous E60. They can be and were resurfaced once without any problem.

As for your pads extending outside of the rotor diameter, it sounds like incorrect parts may have been used. Perhaps the rotor's are incorrect smaller diameter for your vehicle? I would check with another E60 of the same model in your local area. When I did my brakes on my E60 and E90, I thought pads will located slightly inside the rotor diameter, ie a very small unswept area on the rotor outside area and some unswept area on the rotor inside area.

Here is a picture I found, showing a very small lip on the brake rotor outer unswept area:


Select here for much larger picture.

Ceramic pads have their applications, but street driving is too cool for them. Their initial brake application is not effective until they get heated up. They are also harsh on rotors from the higher heat and friction. At track speeds, ceramic pads may be what you need (in conjunction with rotors and brake fluid designed to handle the heat).