i went with 140 genuine from sytner bmw nottingham, 120 was non genuine from a local battery dealer. Dealer didnt mention anything about registration unless they just did that without saying.
The light on my old battery was green but still not holding its charge.

 

4 years, 48K on the clock for my 550. been hobbling the battery as long as possible, but it won't hold a charge now even from my float charger.

dealer wanted $275 for the part - and ~1 hour labor ($125 in CVa, I think)

my general mechanic picked me up one for $150 with a 75 month warranty. I'm having a BMW tech install and register after hours for $50.

 

Another Battery problem sufferer here; (not totally surprised considering she's been asleep for most of the winter). I have a battery charger but after just a few days charge is almost gone. I'm considering an AGM battery as a replacement if the OEM unit gets pricey. Any AGM recommendations and helpful advise (including suitable replacement size) would be greatly appreciated.

 

"Keep in mind you have to register a new battery using a BMW scan tool.

If not the new battery can be: over or under charged."

I was told a new battery in my 2007 328i didn't need registration, but the battery in my 2008 528i did need the registration.
Does anyone know which models require registration??

 

Go to Battery+ on Stevens Creek. I got my battery replaced there and they swapped it out for me for <$200 after tax. I don't know how much I buy into the "program battery with dealership" thing. My car hasn't been running any different since I replaced the battery 9 months ago and I have put somewhere between 12-15k miles on the car.

 

Got my car back from the dealer and they said they checked everything and everything looks fine. The battery is still good at about 90% and the couldn't find any drains from any sources. They did find a small spike a while back but they said it was very minimal. The only thing they can think of is either my Eurospec headlights or the retrofit cable for the LCI taillights. I've had these headlights for about 3 years now so I can't imagine they're the cause and I haven't heard of anyone having issues with Bruce's retrofit cable.

Guess I'll see the next few days if the warning light comes back on.

And thanks for the suggestion on Battery+ Kristine.

 

As a follow up to my last post. I took the car back on Apr 26th and the dealer spent about 4 days on it and finally said it was the CAS module. The replaced it and I got it back on Thu May 6th and guess what....very next day, got the high battery discharge warning again and been getting it every morning since. Bringing it back in soon but no clue what they're going to look for next.

 

Is your battery oem? If it is then it's almost, if not 5 yrs old based on your MY. If you ask me it's time for a replacement. It is nearing it's usefull life. Either replace it or keep putting up with the dealers. As stated before, pick up a battery from Batteries Plus. I did last summer and have had no problems since, and with no registration at all. Good luck

 

Yep it's the original battery and that was the first thing I thought was the problem yet they tested it and said it was fine. I'm going to ask them to hook a new battery up and keep the car there over night to see what happens the next day. Or should I just buy a battery from Battery+ and test it out myself?

The CAS module costed over $1400 to fix and luckily it was covered under my Easy Care warranty but I was still responsible for the $500 deductable, yet that still hasn't fixed the issue. Let's say it's a bad battery after all, wonder if they would let me apply that $500 to a new battery. hahaha Hmm...maybe that's not a such a crazy idea since I paid for a repair that didn't solve my problem so they should give me that as a credit right?

 

Damn straight I'd have them credit the $500 for the new battery! Afterall the onus is on them for not diagnosting the correct problems, if it happens to be just the battery, which I think it is. Hope your situation gets resolved quickly.