aharper

Got this wrapped up last night. I need to mount the bass knob in the dash and play with the level inputs to tune everything but it's functioning as it should. Let me know if I did something wrong here... I went ahead and tapped the speaker wires from the amp for a LOC to get the signal into the RCA format. From there the RCA's head to the amp. Everything is functioning as it should, although a bit too "boomy" at the moment where I didn't have that same "boom" in the Suburban where I removed all of this from. I'm going to do some adjusting and tuning this weekend to get everything where it needs to be.

I'm trying to think if there is a way to get the sound into the cabin more instead of having to fire throughout the trunk and get the muffled bass. It's not bad, it's just not as clean as it could be. Here is what I was thinking...

1) mount up. If I take the back seat out and then pull the liner I'm left with the metal shelf. Can I cut a whole there and mount my sub firing up? I can then use a mesh on my back shelf to cover the speaker and need to insulate to ensure that there is no road noise or anything that travels through any openings.

2) cut a hole through my "pass through" location and mount against the wall. I did this in my last 5 series with no problems. In this case I'll have to permanently remove the plastic piece that sits there now so that I can mount that back whenever I sell the car down the road.

Thoughts??

response_surface

so you retained the stock amp and put a LOC on its output to your new amp?

no need to do that, get rid of the stocker and use the inputs going to it from the head unit as your inputs to the new amp.

response_surface

so you retained the stock amp and put a LOC on its output to your new amp?

no need to do that, get rid of the stocker and use the inputs going to it from the head unit as your inputs to the new amp. that stock amp is probably adding all kinds of filth to the signal.

bruce_miranda

See my DIY thread.

The remote wire is on until the car goes to sleep. If you use the lighter socket your amp will turn on only while the engine is running (or ign position 2).

The reason its done this way is that the car can still gong/chime even with the HU off. So you need the amp to be on during this time. Ofcourse this is not essential for the sub-woofers.

aharper

I'm ok with the amp staying on for a little after the car is off, glad to learn how the system works though I'm not sure I would've called the sound a "gong." lol

The amp I have in is just for the sub, I will add a second amp later that I will use for new mid/highs. Whenever I do that I'll do exactly what response_surface suggested... use the speaker wire already in the car to avoid running my own.

oh... was a treat to learn how simple the back seat pulled forward, too. Took 45 minutes to learn and 10 seconds to actually do. lol

response_surface

when you jack into the HU output you will for sure need a LOC or an amp that accepts high level inputs.

with respect to the sub amp install i think you may have misunderstood me. the inputs from the HU to the sub amp are a 5 volt signal so you can just pipe those directly into your new amp. don't take the oem sub amp outputs, line convert those and then go to your new amp.

you need to get the WDS diagram ,for color code and polarity, and make an adapter to get that to your RCA jacks on your new amp.

carlos916

sorry to revive this old thread but has any one had problems with their subs after this DIY? my subs started to cut out and would not work untill i would turn off and on the car ... sometimes they work for like 5 min then they stop.. even my underseat subs are dead? any info ..thanks!