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545 clutch recommendations - DIY

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Old 12-04-2011, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dawid_w
I am from Houston...
OK. I was hoping you maybe local to DFW LOL.
Old 12-16-2011, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Mordor110
OK. I was hoping you maybe local to DFW LOL.
+1

I've never done work on clutch but I've done turbo swap, brakes, suspensions and cooling on other cars before.
Lmk if you need help changing your clutch,
I can help while learning if you don't mind
Old 12-17-2011, 06:10 AM
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Question, did you replace just the clutch disc or did you do the pressure plate as well? I see in the video, that the tool to rest the spring on the pressure plate was used and from I remember this was only needed if you only replaced the clutch disc. If you replaced the pressure plate and clutch disc as 1 unit, you just had to remove a shipping tool once it was all installed and prior to reinstalling transmission.
Old 12-18-2011, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pauliehcfr
Question, did you replace just the clutch disc or did you do the pressure plate as well? I see in the video, that the tool to rest the spring on the pressure plate was used and from I remember this was only needed if you only replaced the clutch disc. If you replaced the pressure plate and clutch disc as 1 unit, you just had to remove a shipping tool once it was all installed and prior to reinstalling transmission.
You are correct regarding the special tool for the pressure plate spring ? you need it only when you are going to re-use the old pressure plate.

I replaced the complete clutch kit ? you can see the spring locking tool on one of the pictures. I used that video just as a good reference point - that is why I attached it.
Old 12-27-2011, 05:18 AM
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Dawid_w, how did you know the DMF was still in good shape?
Old 12-27-2011, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by swissimeister
Dawid_w, how did you know the DMF was still in good shape?
Surface was nice and smooth. No burn marks, scratches or any other damages.
Old 12-30-2011, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dawid_w
Surface was nice and smooth. No burn marks, scratches or any other damages.
I thought most DMF's include an elastomeric element which can wear out. I test drove a 540i that had the elastomer give out and it rattled terribly in neutral - driveable but terrifically embarrassing if you had to.

My clutch stopped slipping... I know it will probably give out soon but I test it every week or so on the highway in 4th, 5th and 6th from low rpms and its holding fine. I'm not going to fix it until its broken!
Old 04-04-2012, 02:38 PM
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Apparently the LUK dmf uses a greased arc spring to friction damp the flywheel, it's an interesting design without an elastomer.

Anyway, I'm ordering the parts to do this now. I'm wondering about the rear main seal - do you need to buy the seal in the housing? The seal is available alone ($12.16) vs in the aluminum housing ($77.30). It looks like the one in the housing comes with an integrated gasket (cast rubber lip). I wonder if one can use the $12 seal and some RTV silicone to reseal the housing to the block?

I'm trying to be completely organized so that I can do this in a day at my brothers place ideally.
Old 04-04-2012, 03:05 PM
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Also, why did you replace the end cover? It doesn't look like there are any moving parts there, worst case if it leaks is to use some RTV to reseal it?
Old 04-13-2012, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mullenc525
Also, why did you replace the end cover? It doesn't look like there are any moving parts there, worst case if it leaks is to use some RTV to reseal it?
I replaced the end cover because it was leaking. I replaced real main seal just because it was easy to do since I have everything out.
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