30FF Code
04-02-2014, 05:20 PM
#11
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Booyaazaa,
My 535 at idle has a rattling sound like a tin can. 67K miles. I have brought it up to the dealer under CPO and they said that was normal. Gave me the impression it was a heat shield rattling under the car. What type of rattle will I be looking for to diagnose the WG…if I can catch it before 100K i will make sure it gets fixed.
Thanks
My 535 at idle has a rattling sound like a tin can. 67K miles. I have brought it up to the dealer under CPO and they said that was normal. Gave me the impression it was a heat shield rattling under the car. What type of rattle will I be looking for to diagnose the WG…if I can catch it before 100K i will make sure it gets fixed.
Thanks
The rattling is similar to using a old metal pot with a loose metal lid to boil water. You get it when you are at idle and when you are decelerating. Usually BMW will replace the turbos if you get a 30ff fault code and the car passes a vacuum line and smoke test. If you have a SA that you're friendly with that is pro-customer go to him to see if he can have the tech actually inspect the WG. Many times the dealer will just check for codes and when they see nothing they say its normal. I asked my SA to have the tech physically check since at stock boost I was fine and the 30ff only showed up at boost levels above 15 psi. After the check the tech said the wg's were out of spec so they will replace.
The one thing to check for a non-wg rattle is check the exhaust hanger that attaches to the bottom of the tranny housing. I've had both bolts on that hanger come loose and it had a similar metal rattle.
04-03-2014, 04:58 PM
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New solenoids have been installed and did NOT solve my 30FF problem. I'll be pressure testing the system tomorrow. I've attached the before and after graphs, just for your entertainment.
04-03-2014, 08:28 PM
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Boost solenoids do not go bad that often. Do the smoke test and inspect the wg's. Also check your DV's to make sure they are working properly and clean of oil build up from blow-by. Hopefully you replaced the dv's vacuum lines too.
Last edited by Booyaazaa; 04-03-2014 at 08:30 PM.
04-04-2014, 06:25 AM
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This would be great info if you can link me to these test methods that you are recommending I perform. Do you have links to how to do the smoke test, or inspect the wastegates? I haven't seen a test for the diverter valves either. How is that done?
04-04-2014, 05:02 PM
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My Ride: Alpine White 2010 535 M-Sport
Plowery21,
The rattling is similar to using a old metal pot with a loose metal lid to boil water. You get it when you are at idle and when you are decelerating. Usually BMW will replace the turbos if you get a 30ff fault code and the car passes a vacuum line and smoke test. If you have a SA that you're friendly with that is pro-customer go to him to see if he can have the tech actually inspect the WG. Many times the dealer will just check for codes and when they see nothing they say its normal. I asked my SA to have the tech physically check since at stock boost I was fine and the 30ff only showed up at boost levels above 15 psi. After the check the tech said the wg's were out of spec so they will replace.
The one thing to check for a non-wg rattle is check the exhaust hanger that attaches to the bottom of the tranny housing. I've had both bolts on that hanger come loose and it had a similar metal rattle.
The rattling is similar to using a old metal pot with a loose metal lid to boil water. You get it when you are at idle and when you are decelerating. Usually BMW will replace the turbos if you get a 30ff fault code and the car passes a vacuum line and smoke test. If you have a SA that you're friendly with that is pro-customer go to him to see if he can have the tech actually inspect the WG. Many times the dealer will just check for codes and when they see nothing they say its normal. I asked my SA to have the tech physically check since at stock boost I was fine and the 30ff only showed up at boost levels above 15 psi. After the check the tech said the wg's were out of spec so they will replace.
The one thing to check for a non-wg rattle is check the exhaust hanger that attaches to the bottom of the tranny housing. I've had both bolts on that hanger come loose and it had a similar metal rattle.
04-04-2014, 08:45 PM
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My Ride: Alpine E60, '09 535i-Premium, Sport and Comfort Access PackageMods: Lux H8 V3 Angel Eyes, Weisslicht LED license plate lights, Interior LED lights, RPI Scoop, Matte Black Grills, Smoked LED side markers & side reflectors, 35% tint all around, and a 3
Here is a good link to show you how to test the different systems.
30ff Underboost – Boost Leak Diy - Your Source for International Turbo BMW Racing Discussion - N54Tech.com
Thanks for the great info. Sound similar but I haven't had a code yet. I will take it out this weekend and give it a once over. I haven't had the same SA twice so I doubt I will get any leverage from them..Im just going to start asking for the head mechanic..My father does that every time and it seems to work.
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