2010 BMW 550i Coolant transfer pipe repair question
09-06-2021, 03:23 PM
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2010 BMW 550i Coolant transfer pipe repair question
Hey guys, I finally had my coolant transfer pipe fail on me. I could not even add coolant without it falling on the floor. I just did the coolant transfer pipe repair after the seal failed, as someone who's not too mechanically inclined, it was kinda scary and I'm still riddled with self doubt/paranoia 
Operating off the assumption I dont have much coolant in the system and I dont have a pressure testing tool, can I pour in a gallon of distilled water to just ensure it doesnt fall on the ground again? This would allow easy clean up if my repair was not correct or all-encompassing and I have another unseen problem. Once a gallon is in and it didnt leak, my plan was to start the car and let it run under pressure for 10-15min to ensure no further leaks? After that I would add a gallon of undiluted coolant and run again for 10-15min. Finally, keep adding 50:50 diluted increments in (again running for 10-15 minute to allow the system to auto bleed itself) and repeat until full? Is this correct?
Anything I'm missing, need to do, or anything else I need to be cautious about when restarting the car after this repair? Things like turning the car on (but not starting the engine) to allow the computers do do whatever they want to do?
My water pump seemed pretty good surprisingly, spinned smoothly and I didnt see it leaking when trying to find the initial leak.
Thanks for your help... she's not worth much anymore and i cant really afford to dump thousands in, but i still love the car so getting away with this repair for <$800 would be a total relief for me.
Operating off the assumption I dont have much coolant in the system and I dont have a pressure testing tool, can I pour in a gallon of distilled water to just ensure it doesnt fall on the ground again? This would allow easy clean up if my repair was not correct or all-encompassing and I have another unseen problem. Once a gallon is in and it didnt leak, my plan was to start the car and let it run under pressure for 10-15min to ensure no further leaks? After that I would add a gallon of undiluted coolant and run again for 10-15min. Finally, keep adding 50:50 diluted increments in (again running for 10-15 minute to allow the system to auto bleed itself) and repeat until full? Is this correct?
Anything I'm missing, need to do, or anything else I need to be cautious about when restarting the car after this repair? Things like turning the car on (but not starting the engine) to allow the computers do do whatever they want to do?
My water pump seemed pretty good surprisingly, spinned smoothly and I didnt see it leaking when trying to find the initial leak.
Thanks for your help... she's not worth much anymore and i cant really afford to dump thousands in, but i still love the car so getting away with this repair for <$800 would be a total relief for me.
09-07-2021, 09:16 AM
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Advanced auto has pressure test kit as a loaner tool.
I don't think that pouring the water in is a good way to test. It may not leak without any pressure but may leak under pressure.
I don't think that pouring the water in is a good way to test. It may not leak without any pressure but may leak under pressure.
09-12-2021, 07:28 AM
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2010 E60 V8 Coolant transfer pipe write up
Anyone who still has these cars like i do, just wanted to throw my write up out there in hopes it helps someone. Definitely was scary to me, but if i can do it you can too. Saved med over $2000 doing it myself and I have a new water pump, thermostat and belts now too! I didnt remove all the sensors like others did, i moved the fuel rail instead.
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