Okay so I was able to get ISTA running and I spent a few days getting to know it. There were some codes from the last test drive so I took screen shots and then cleared them. Then, I went on a short test drive and a new code appeared. 2EE6 DME: coolant-temperature sensor, engine coolant temperature signal stuck high. I followed the procedures - check the wires, connectors, and replace engine temperature sensor. Unfortunately, this did not fix the stalling problem but it did stop the cooling fan from coming on sporadically.

For the next test I just let the car idle in the garage since the last time I barely made it home. The stalling seems to have gotten worse than when this problem originally started. I start the car and in less than a minute the car will die. When the car died, it would not turn over right away. It took a few attempts and then it would restart but then it would stall after 5-10 seconds. So the run time would get worse. This time when checking for codes there were no fault codes on ISTA. The crazy thing is that INPA still shows that same fault (2D5F DME, internal error: reset P-Code P1615). This is the only fault code shown on INPA. Since the car is dying while idling, I don't think this would have anything to do with the EGS. Right?

During my idling tests, sometimes I would try to hold the idle at 1500-2000 rpm's to see if I could keep the car running. I was able to keep it running some of the times. The car seemed to dip about 1000 rpm's when it wanted to die. I'm not sure what to do next. :unsure: Hopefully, you could point me in a direction. Thanks for all your help!

Ok. Check your coils one by one to see if one is bad (coil itself and wiring). If you find a bad one pull it and start the car up. Does it stay running longer. If so that's your issue. Replace all or just that one.

If you don't have a spark tester put the coil next to metal on the engine and you should see a spark if it's good.

I checked the coils and the wiring, everything seems fine and we're getting spark. I noticed the gas was very low so I put some gas in and added some heet plus a gas treatment and a fuel injection cleaner. I put a brick on the gas pedal and idled it a 1000 rpm's. The car did not stall with the brick on the pedal so I let it idle for most of the day. The next day, the car seemed to be running great so I took it on a spin. I think I probably drove it for about 6 miles and it didn't stall at all. However, the car shifted into neutral while I was driving randomly a handful of times. When I got home from the test drive the car started to stall again. It's stalling just as bad as before but I can keep the car running if I have my foot on the pedal keeping the rpm's at least 1000 rpm's.

I'm starting to think I've got 2 separate issues here. I'm thinking one is either a vacuum or gas issue and the other might be the gear selector switch? What do you think?

Same issue mine is Fixed, i agree check ur wiring especially your grounds, the bolt on the valve cover with the wires to the coils came loose and the ground wire on the front of the engine near the compressor was loose they both looked tight but i was able to move them easily and the turn a few times to tighten