acarpenter

I've read up on a few threads and everyone seems to have their own preferred method for doing this. But everyone says it's a pain in the rear and I want to do it with as few headaches and as timely as I can.
I need to replace my leaky oil pan gasket as well as access my turbos due to a loose actuator rod on AT LEAST the rear(awful rattle and 30FF), but surely the front needs attention as well. I will make the call on how to repair the turbos once I can better access them. So that means getting the subframe out of the way and pulling the downpipes too.

My car has the dynamic drive/sports suspension so I know my car will have some extra hydraulic lines associated with it. I don't see an option that my car has active steering when I decode my VIN, and I'm not really sure if that is much of a factor in my decision on how to approach.

Does this sound like a viable plan:
-Support engine from top with brace
-remove belly pans and stiffener plate
-disconnect steering shaft from splined joint on rack
- leave rack attached to subframe
-be mindful of any lines that may be mounted to subframe so as not to damage any (auto trans cooling line?)
-undo engine mount nuts
-lower subframe to remove oil pan and gain extra room near turbos


Another option is to disconnect the hydraulic lines from the rack and the strut mounts from the top, remove calipers and hang them, lower the entire subframe and suspension and move it aside... only thing is I don't have much space to put the thing...


Open to any suggestions. Like I already said, I have read some threads and Facebook posts, but I know sometimes it's easy to gloss over a detail or two and or easy to waste more time than you save trying to leave things in place when you should just pull them out of the way...

gman6262

If you can drop the suspension and subframe complete - this will save you a lot of time. I don't see how you could do this safely without a lift, will be very heavy, but technically I don't see anything wrong with your plan since you don't have x-drive. You can access the rear turbo actuator from the wheel well - if you remove the wheel, and the plastic wheel well trim, there is just enough access to get at the rod. As you note, you can forget about accessing the front actuator however. I never did this myself - mine was an xi and part way through the turbo repair I just decided to pull the engine through the front of the car - I had the time. The subframe had to come out anyway for the oil pan to clear. It will be tough to access the motor mounts - make sure you have flex head 1/4" socket wrench and 1/4" drive sockets. I hope someone else can chime in with more specific experience for you. Good luck.

kd7iwp

On my xDrive I lowered the subframe slowly by using two Jack stands on the rear of it and the floor Jack on the front. Wasn’t that bad actually. Kept steering rack attached to it and disconnected the control arms. I imagine it’s a fair bit more simple on the rwd models.