2008 528i No crank, no start
06-05-2015, 11:28 AM
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2008 528i No crank, no start
Hey everyone. My car was rear ended about a month ago. The damage was all on the driver side, well away from the battery and fuse area. About six days of normal driving after getting my car back it will not crank. It started strong and got me to work, it sat for maybe five hours before i went to run some errands and it would not crank. Here's what happens:
I put the key in and everything is normal, foot on brake, press the start button. Fuel system sounds like it's working, as far as I can tell electric accessories are working. Lights are bright, ac fan blows. There is a click, which I think is the throttle body. It doesn't seem like it's coming from the starter anyway. When I take my foot off the brake, it displays a warning that the ignition is on. The starter does nothing. So I took out the starter and brought it to get tested at Autozone after testing it myself and determined that it was no good. They confirmed it was bad. Replaced with a Bosch rebuild, which I tested as functioning, and put everything back together. It is not starting still.
I think the key is ok, but I am going to bring it to a dealer and see if they can test it for function. The brake lights come on when my foot is on the pedal. I was led to believe that this means the brake switch functions. Power is getting to the starter, I tested at the red cable. I guess there is something prohibiting the starter from initiating. The car will not jump start. I've exhausted my knowledge, and done hours of forum searching. If anyone has any suggestions I would really appreciate them. The next step may be to dissemble back to the starter with the intake manifold off to see if anything did not get reconnected. Thanks in advance!
I put the key in and everything is normal, foot on brake, press the start button. Fuel system sounds like it's working, as far as I can tell electric accessories are working. Lights are bright, ac fan blows. There is a click, which I think is the throttle body. It doesn't seem like it's coming from the starter anyway. When I take my foot off the brake, it displays a warning that the ignition is on. The starter does nothing. So I took out the starter and brought it to get tested at Autozone after testing it myself and determined that it was no good. They confirmed it was bad. Replaced with a Bosch rebuild, which I tested as functioning, and put everything back together. It is not starting still.
I think the key is ok, but I am going to bring it to a dealer and see if they can test it for function. The brake lights come on when my foot is on the pedal. I was led to believe that this means the brake switch functions. Power is getting to the starter, I tested at the red cable. I guess there is something prohibiting the starter from initiating. The car will not jump start. I've exhausted my knowledge, and done hours of forum searching. If anyone has any suggestions I would really appreciate them. The next step may be to dissemble back to the starter with the intake manifold off to see if anything did not get reconnected. Thanks in advance!
06-05-2015, 06:25 PM
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My bluetooth OBDII module isn't picking any codes up. I may have to get a second opinion from a bit more "legit" code scanner. I don't think the engine light is really on. It is on, like before a car starts the light lights up sort of on. I could be wrong though.
06-05-2015, 08:02 PM
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Recently had the same issue with mine. after an agonizing 8 hours of dropping my cradle and exhaust to replace my starter, it still wouldn't start (would've been nice to get up there to test it lol)
it wound up being the IVM. integrated control module. It sits in the front right in the electrical box under the microfilter. While you're there, there's a main ground right by the hinge, take that off and clean it too. Haven't had a single problem since doing the 2 of them.
The IVM takes 10 minutes to install, only cost me 78$ and does not require programming.
it wound up being the IVM. integrated control module. It sits in the front right in the electrical box under the microfilter. While you're there, there's a main ground right by the hinge, take that off and clean it too. Haven't had a single problem since doing the 2 of them.
The IVM takes 10 minutes to install, only cost me 78$ and does not require programming.
06-06-2015, 10:53 AM
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I tried looking for the IVM for the six cylinder and could not find any info. Where it should be under the micro filter didn't house anything like the IVM's I saw online. I called the parts dept. for a part number and they told me that my car didn't have an IVM. If anyone can confirm or let me know if I'm wrong, please do. I really need to get back on the road. Thank you for the suggestion.
My insurance company is having the adjuster call me Monday to see if they are obligated to diagnose it. Also depending what happens there, I will be taking the key in to the dealership for a walk-in check up tuesday.
My insurance company is having the adjuster call me Monday to see if they are obligated to diagnose it. Also depending what happens there, I will be taking the key in to the dealership for a walk-in check up tuesday.
06-06-2015, 11:00 AM
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Did you find the electrical box I'm talking about? You remove the filter, then you remove the plastic cover held in by 1 screw and 3 or 4 turn clips. Then it's under there. The cover of the box is held on by like 4 Allen screws. Do a youtube search.
06-06-2015, 06:09 PM
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I checked the box and there wasn't anything that looked like the IVM's I've seen online. The IVM that I've seen had green plugs and fuses in a black plastic box. There's a couple relays, and a metal box without any fuses on it. I'll probably try to get to my car tomorrow, after I brew some beer, to take a picture. Maybe you can point out something that I missed. The car is at my dad's house.
06-06-2015, 10:10 PM
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You can stop looking.
Only 8 cylinder BMWs have IVMs.
I am still unclear as to your test of power to the starter. Are you saying thay when you press the start button you can measure current flowing to the solenoid? If so, the starter is still the problem.
Only 8 cylinder BMWs have IVMs.
I am still unclear as to your test of power to the starter. Are you saying thay when you press the start button you can measure current flowing to the solenoid? If so, the starter is still the problem.
06-09-2015, 08:12 AM
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Your first post was confusing regarding whether or not the start voltage was being sent to the solenoid. Apparently not.
Because you had body damage repaired I would do an extensive check of all connections and ground points on the car in the area repaired. The E60 is power hungry and sensitive to electrical system issues.
The ultimate control of whether the starter solenoid receives voltage is the CAS (car access system). It determines this first by properly identifying the key to release the theft system. Then the CAS goes through a series of initialization checks of voltage values from components to check that systems are ready, including switches such as the brake pedal switch signalling that the brake pedal is being depressed. Given your information I would identify the CAS as the culprit preventing starting.
Below is a short list of possibilities (the CAS is complex and interacts with many components on the car).
1) bad key - If your remote works and the lights and radio come on that generally means there is a connection between the key and the CAS, but for some reason the CAS may not release the starter. Do you have a second key?
2) bad brake light switch - You said you tried this already and your brake lights work.
3) shifter not fully in park (auto transmission only) - try moving it around a bit, try starting in both park and neutral.
4) CAS- Given what you have checked out so far this is the most likely cause. Either some value during the CAS startup routine is freezing the CAS (can happen from bad IBS or other things) or the CAS has just gone bad and needs to be replaced.
5) bad transmission position switch (auto transmission only, located on side of transmission, accessed from under car) - this is what signals the car that it is in neutral/park and is safe to start.
6) bad clutch switch (manual transmission only, located above clutch pedal) - this is what signals the car that the clutch is depressed and is safe to start.
7) dead starter solenoid - Unlikely on a new starter.
8) bad ignition switch - Unlikely. If normal lights, radio start after ignition button is depressed.
Because you had body damage repaired I would do an extensive check of all connections and ground points on the car in the area repaired. The E60 is power hungry and sensitive to electrical system issues.
The ultimate control of whether the starter solenoid receives voltage is the CAS (car access system). It determines this first by properly identifying the key to release the theft system. Then the CAS goes through a series of initialization checks of voltage values from components to check that systems are ready, including switches such as the brake pedal switch signalling that the brake pedal is being depressed. Given your information I would identify the CAS as the culprit preventing starting.
Below is a short list of possibilities (the CAS is complex and interacts with many components on the car).
1) bad key - If your remote works and the lights and radio come on that generally means there is a connection between the key and the CAS, but for some reason the CAS may not release the starter. Do you have a second key?
2) bad brake light switch - You said you tried this already and your brake lights work.
3) shifter not fully in park (auto transmission only) - try moving it around a bit, try starting in both park and neutral.
4) CAS- Given what you have checked out so far this is the most likely cause. Either some value during the CAS startup routine is freezing the CAS (can happen from bad IBS or other things) or the CAS has just gone bad and needs to be replaced.
5) bad transmission position switch (auto transmission only, located on side of transmission, accessed from under car) - this is what signals the car that it is in neutral/park and is safe to start.
6) bad clutch switch (manual transmission only, located above clutch pedal) - this is what signals the car that the clutch is depressed and is safe to start.
7) dead starter solenoid - Unlikely on a new starter.
8) bad ignition switch - Unlikely. If normal lights, radio start after ignition button is depressed.