120k on original trans fluid... change it?
Longtime BMW owner and have owned and maintained lots of them. I bought an 07 530xi with 120k. Trans has never been services as far as I can tell. I plan on doing the f/r diffs and transfer case this weekend. Bought the ZF kit from FCP Euro but now I am having second thoughts about doing the fluid/pan change due to concerns about grenading the unit.
So.... should I do the job or just let it eat? Trans has zero problems. Shifts perfectly. No silent codes stored.
So.... should I do the job or just let it eat? Trans has zero problems. Shifts perfectly. No silent codes stored.
Fluid changes hurting transmissions is mainly an urban legend. It is theoretically possible that a fluid change on a tranny that's really on its last leg could cause it to hasten the demise slightly, but in general a transmission fluid change (and in the case of our ZF transmissions, a Mechatronics refresh) is the best thing you could possibly do to keep the car on the road for many more years. At 120,000 miles, it's due, and you might be surprised that the "perfect shifting" gets better. ;-)
New Members
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 429
Likes: 22
From: pa
My Ride: 528i
Model Year: 2010 528i e60
Engine: N52k
Capture all the LifeGuard 6 that comes out of the ZF and measure it.
It will give you piece of mind, when we put back the same amount back in (and you have done the second fill correctly).
It will give you piece of mind, when we put back the same amount back in (and you have done the second fill correctly).
I have just done this on mine however I have purchased new square seal and mechatronics tubes as well. My car has fewer miles however trans have never been serviced so it contained 15 year old fluid. It shifts much better after the change, however I am debating on swapping mechatronic solenoids as well. Anyway it shouldn’t hurt to replace fluid with a fresh one.
FWIW, I always suggest not swapping out working solenoids. They're VERY simple devices (really just an electromagnet with a moving shaft). There's not much to go wrong, and most times if they're misbehaving it's because of the effect of dirty fluid. Given the fact that a working solenoid it almost certainly going to last longer than the car, and that any new solenoid has a higher likelihood of failing than the original (look up "bathtub curve") - AND the fact that the market is fairly saturated with knockoff and counterfeit parts (that will likely NOT last the lifetime of the car), I'm a huge fan of status quo.
FWIW, I always suggest not swapping out working solenoids. They're VERY simple devices (really just an electromagnet with a moving shaft). There's not much to go wrong, and most times if they're misbehaving it's because of the effect of dirty fluid. Given the fact that a working solenoid it almost certainly going to last longer than the car, and that any new solenoid has a higher likelihood of failing than the original (look up "bathtub curve") - AND the fact that the market is fairly saturated with knockoff and counterfeit parts (that will likely NOT last the lifetime of the car), I'm a huge fan of status quo.
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Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
My Ride: 2008 535xi e61
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
If there's anything I've picked up from deep diving into ZF 6HP arcana it's that the valve body is the key to a long transmission life. I've read the internals are very high quality that will last forever, but they are hamstrung by lax maintenance and idiotic "lifetime" fluid promises. Take care of it, it will take care of you. True for many things I suppose.
- Absolutely change the seals, when they go they stress the clutches, friction plates, etc., which leads to damage. ZF recommends fluid change every 60k miles.
- Consider changing solenoids while you're in there, or plan to in the next 30k. It's about $300 and any shop is going to charge way more.
- Go to https://www.thectsc.com for your solenoids and other ZF parts. You will need to get part numbers from the production stamp to get the exact parts you need.
- If you're planning for the long haul, or just want to upgrade your shifting experience, put in a Sonnax Zip kit, separator plate and rebuild the valve body. $250 and a few meticulous hours later and you've just upgraded your shifting to kick ass level.
- Put that laser thermometer away. Only the TCU knows the true temperature of the fluid, certainly not the plastic pan. Use a scanner, or INPA
New Members
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 429
Likes: 22
From: pa
My Ride: 528i
Model Year: 2010 528i e60
Engine: N52k
Hey LongRoof,
With all your deep diving on ZF 6HP's, why are the bridge seals and sleeve seals wearing or cracking?
Next:
You mentioned ZF says change the LifeGuard every 60,000. Does ZF also say change the bridge seal and sleeve seals every... (place mileage here).
With all your deep diving on ZF 6HP's, why are the bridge seals and sleeve seals wearing or cracking?
Next:
You mentioned ZF says change the LifeGuard every 60,000. Does ZF also say change the bridge seal and sleeve seals every... (place mileage here).
New Members
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
My Ride: 2008 535xi e61
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
Hey LongRoof,
With all your deep diving on ZF 6HP's, why are the bridge seals and sleeve seals wearing or cracking?
Next:
You mentioned ZF says change the LifeGuard every 60,000. Does ZF also say change the bridge seal and sleeve seals every... (place mileage here).
With all your deep diving on ZF 6HP's, why are the bridge seals and sleeve seals wearing or cracking?
Next:
You mentioned ZF says change the LifeGuard every 60,000. Does ZF also say change the bridge seal and sleeve seals every... (place mileage here).
I don't recall a specific mileage, but considering FCPEuro's Fluid change kit includes the the seals it's probably practicality and experience leading them to recommend you change 'em out while you're there.
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turboawd
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