Well one of the members this last week asked me to do some repairs on his car since he was busy, which was no problem, so I said ok. One of the things he requested was to check the water leak he also had.


Well the old re-manufactured water pump that was just installed 3 months ago is bad already. I went ahead and tore it down, and the 5series member with a little bit of my help and tools put it back together.



This is the remanufactured pump.

Hopefully a couple of you would like to see the removal of a water pump from a 545i

Raise car and support on jack stands. (see, I?m already assuming you know how to dothis!)

You are going to need to remove the lower front belly pan. Turn the 8 Philips head 1/4 turn fasteners 1/4 turn counter clockwise to loosen and remove the belly pan.





Drain coolant into a suitable container. Dispose of properly.





Remove 4 bolts to the engine cover and remove cover.







Use a flat head screwdriver remove air intake hose from throttle body. remove vacuum hose on top of intake if you have one. Use the proper Torxscrew driver and remove the 2 screws holding the air cleaner assembly.Disconnect the MAF electrical connector. Lift up assembly and place in a safeplace.














For ease of access to the water pump I would recommend removing the fan shroud, which is basically 15 mins work to save busted knuckles and gives you a lot of space to work around.

Remove the metal cover and set on top of the intake.




Remove the plastic cover.




Note: if you have not replaced the small plastic line leading from the overflow and across the top of the radiator now is the time to do it as it is very brittle and will break if you even look at it wrong!





Unplug the two wire connections and move them out of the way.
















Now lift the fan shroud, and on the driver?s side is a large tang, after it clears the clip, bend it back ?it is hinged?.











Remove fan shroud

unplug two connectors from thermostat and sending unit


Remove air injection hold down clamps; these tubes get hard over time becoming very brittle. Removal of intake is nec to replace them so be careful!





Loosen bolts to water pump pulley



Loosen tension to belt, remove belt, remove pulley




Look in the water pump weep hole, although some seepage is normal, if you see coolant here you have a bad water pump,







Remove 8 pulley retaining bolts and lower pulley so you can remove the lower most water pump bolt.





Remove hoses from Water pump.The lower one on the left is a little tricky to raise the clip. Rotate the hose until you see the clip, lift clip and remove hose.



Remove temp switch (22mm)

Remove the water pump retaining bolts and remove pump.

Insert pipe cleaner or rod with tissue on the end into this hole. Bend rod so the tip will touch the bottom inside. If you have coolant inside it is VERY BAD news, the water pipe under the intake is leaking.







Clean block, o-ring, and gasket surfaces, replace the electric thermostat if you bought one..

Apply sealant if youlike to use sealant, install pump. Install temp switch (use sealer if desired) Install hoses, reinstall pulley and bolts.

Use special tool tool to install ac belt. See my other thread on how to make this tool for less than $10. Use only the factory belt for the ac belt.

If you plan to reseal the vacuum pump now is a good time. It is also a good time to replace passenger lower timing cover if it is leaking at this time. Another thing that leaks inthis area is the oil pressure switch.

Re install three nuts holding air injection hose on.

Re install radiator covers remaining coolant hoses and tighten the drain plug. Fill coolant.

Start car and let warm up, after it warms up and the cooling fan cycles, (fans do not cycle on check fan connection) turn on heater to purge air out of heater core. Turn off heater. Check coolant level. Top off coolant if nec and put cap on.



Lower car,

Test drive, clean and put away tools, and after the motor cools down, check coolant level and for any signs of leakage.

Raise car and install belly pan. Lower and put away rest of tools.



Sorry this took longer than I thought to make, more time than it took to do the actual job.

Hopefully I did not leave too many steps out and the steps are obvious as to what to do when you get there.

Trying to do this by memory with the pictures I took, in the past.

 

Hmm, that car you worked on looks a little familiar. Great write up Bro, can't wait to see the next installments

 

Thanks, your car is next!

 

Yuppers, can't wait, things I have been meaning to get done.

 

Nice write up.

 

Doing these are a little more intense than I thought and takes a lot of fore thought to remember when and where to take pics. Kind of sucks afterwards when you find out the important pics are out of focus

Also kind of sucks when you totally forgot to put in a step in and the ability to edit is no longer there.

I took some pics for the passenger valve cover gasket dis-assembly and the same side timing cover, hopefully I'll do a DIY on that in the next couple of weeks.

 

Great DIY!!! This will be my next project after the alternator-bracket-gasket-leak job.

 

Great write up........... Thanks for sharing.

 

I happen to just be browsing and I have to give you credit for you DIYs. I am sure I can speak for everyone when I say I appreciate the time and effort you take into putting these together. I know from experience it sometimes take just as long to do a DIY as it does to do an actual job. So thanks again and don't think that your efforts are not appreciated on this forum.

 

Thanks everyone for for just saying thanks, I just finish doing a alternator O-ring on a 745 and almost took no pictures. Yeah I kind of regretted not doing a diy for the 745 crowd but as you know from your own great write ups these things really take some time and effort to do.