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Oil Filter Housing Gaskets Replacement

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Old 06-02-2011, 03:10 PM
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Hi Guys,

Awhile back, a mechanic said I have a minor leak around the oil filter housing. Although, it does like a problem right now, I would like to know if it is easy to open the parts and replace them myself. From the link below, it looks like it's just a few bolts and gaskets to deal with. Is it that easy or am I kidding myself??? lol

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...53&hg=11&fg=30

Can anyone tell me whether I have to remove the alternator or any other parts in order to open the heat exchanger and oil filter housing?

Please kindly share your knowledge and ideas.

Thank you in advance,

Daniel
Old 06-02-2011, 04:23 PM
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not an expert here but from the diagram, it seems like you only have to remove the bolts in order to remove the filter unit itself; 3 towards the heat exchange and 3 go towards the engine. May be it's best that you jack it up and inspect it. Also if it is in fact only those bolts, then get new gaskets also.

GL
Old 06-02-2011, 06:09 PM
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you have to drain at least half of the cooling system because you need to disconnect the upper radiator hose. then it is just 6 bolts. the 3 for the heater exchanger are easy to get off. the back one on the housing is under the intake manifold which is why they say to remove the alternator. i did it with the alternator still intact by using a stubby gearwrench but you need small hands in order to fit in between the runners of the intake manifold. otherwise i would say to remove the alternator to make it easier. whole job takes around 1 hour to replace both gaskets and refill/bleed cooling system.
Old 06-02-2011, 07:54 PM
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Thank you, sir! About a month ago, the mechanic said it's leaking from the top, around the oil filter housing. It is not obvious, but you can tell that it's leaking when I look at it really carefully.
Originally Posted by rctmthouse
not an expert here but from the diagram, it seems like you only have to remove the bolts in order to remove the filter unit itself; 3 towards the heat exchange and 3 go towards the engine. May be it's best that you jack it up and inspect it. Also if it is in fact only those bolts, then get new gaskets also.

GL
Hi Jay, since you have personally done this job already, can you please tell me what is coming in/out of the hose that is connected to the heat exchanger? Is it coolant??? Wow, you actually did it without removing the alternator? That's skillful and major discipline in my book!

Regarding to the procedure, is it best to remove the heat exchanger first? It seems like that's the most logical step. And when you bled the coolant, how many amps did you set the battery charger to when you connected it to the battery terminals under the hood?

Sorry for asking so many questions. My problem is not that bad. I just don't want to risk, making some idiotic steps. Your experience will definitely help me avoid breaking something that is not really broken. LOL

Thanks you and everyone who can give me some precautionary guidance.

Have a great day!
Originally Posted by jay bimma
you have to drain at least half of the cooling system because you need to disconnect the upper radiator hose. then it is just 6 bolts. the 3 for the heater exchanger are easy to get off. the back one on the housing is under the intake manifold which is why they say to remove the alternator. i did it with the alternator still intact by using a stubby gearwrench but you need small hands in order to fit in between the runners of the intake manifold. otherwise i would say to remove the alternator to make it easier. whole job takes around 1 hour to replace both gaskets and refill/bleed cooling system.
Old 06-05-2011, 04:12 PM
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1. Drain 1/2 the coolant in the system from the red drain plug or drain the whole system if you want to do a full refill which i reccommend.
2. Loosen the oil filter cap so the oil goes out of the filter and doesn't make a mess. You can remove the cap and then reinstall it.
2. Disconnect the upper radiator hose where is attaches to the heat exchanger. There will be some coolant which still spills from here so have a pan ready.
3. Remove the 3 inverted torx bolts that mount the heat exchanger to the oil filter housing. Then let the heat exchanger rest forward against the fan shroud.
4. Remove the 3 inverted torx bolts that mount the oil filter housing to the engine.
5. Remove both old gaskets and clean the surface with brake clean and a rag and/or a razor blade.
6. Install both new gaskets and reinstall all parts back together.
7. Fill the coolant reservoir until full.
8. Connect a battery charger @ 2 amps while performing the bleeding procedure and top up coolant as needed until full.
Old 06-06-2011, 05:20 AM
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Thanks, Jay!

You are my hero for the day.

I will definitely give it a shot as soon as I get a chance.

Have a great day, sir!

Originally Posted by jay bimma
1. Drain 1/2 the coolant in the system from the red drain plug or drain the whole system if you want to do a full refill which i reccommend.
2. Loosen the oil filter cap so the oil goes out of the filter and doesn't make a mess. You can remove the cap and then reinstall it.
2. Disconnect the upper radiator hose where is attaches to the heat exchanger. There will be some coolant which still spills from here so have a pan ready.
3. Remove the 3 inverted torx bolts that mount the heat exchanger to the oil filter housing. Then let the heat exchanger rest forward against the fan shroud.
4. Remove the 3 inverted torx bolts that mount the oil filter housing to the engine.
5. Remove both old gaskets and clean the surface with brake clean and a rag and/or a razor blade.
6. Install both new gaskets and reinstall all parts back together.
7. Fill the coolant reservoir until full.
8. Connect a battery charger @ 2 amps while performing the bleeding procedure and top up coolant as needed until full.
Old 06-06-2011, 05:55 PM
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Wish I saw this thread months ago! I just blew a grand on a new thermostat and water pump for no good reason


Thanks for posting! I'm doing this ASAP!
Old 06-06-2011, 07:03 PM
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No problem guys. Glad I could help.
Old 06-06-2011, 07:56 PM
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Thanks for the posting this DIY.
Old 06-06-2011, 08:50 PM
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This should be a pretty common issue on the N52B30 (not sure about the other N52's) engine - thanks again for this thread


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