I just did this and never found anything either. But by process, what exactly do you mean? The tightening sequence? Having never really found that myself, I just did the middle three bolts and then what I thought was a fairly evenly-spaced crossing pattern starting at the bottom for the first bolt (which is more prone to leaks anyway) on either side of center and working my way out and around from there. Just remember to torque to 7 n/m (62 inch pounds) and then apply a 90 degree turn after. To keep everything even, I did the torque all the way around first, and then went back and did the 90 deg turn in the same crossing pattern. Be sure to use the correct range of torque wrench! I had to buy a digital one for bicycles to get one that had that low value in it's range. It's really not more complicated than another 1/4 turn after, and if you do it in one careful, fluid movement, none of the new bolts should break on you. It's not even crazy tight, so don't stress too much. I even got a torque angle guage, but the things they sell in the regular parts places are so flimsy, I think it may be more accurate to assess the 1/4 turn from the position of your tool handle. I had to do that anyway in a couple of cases where the flimsy guage slipped some and stopped showing the turn. Fortunately, I was watching where I started the turn and just continued on to a visual 90 deg. In essence, I was using both methods, I guess - relying on the guage when it worked well, and falling back on visual if I need to.

Been driving mine a couple of weeks, and it's clean and dry as a bone.

One tip - take a sharpie out and MARK EACH BOLT after you add the quarter turn so you don't lose track of which ones are done and which ones are not. If you forget where you were, you're on dangerous ground.

 

I'm looking at doing this soon. What type of silicone sealant did you use? Bentley recommends it but I see not everyone does it. Thoughts?

 

Hello everyone. I was wondering if someone here can help me out. I started this valve cover gasket diy and I'm stuck where I have to remove the actual valve gasket cover. I have already loosened up all the bolts to get to where I need to be, I'm just afraid to Crack the valve cover when trying to pry it off. Should it just pop off or is there usually a lot of resistance? Does anyone have any tips or tricks that would help me get the valve cover off? If I paid a reasonable fee for your time, would anyone be willing to help me complete the job that's in the LA area 90012? I just want to get it finished already. Please reply or PM me. Thanks.

 

The valve cover is baked on to the cylinder head. Take a rubber mallet and gently tap around the valve cover and it should come off.

 

getting ready to tear into 08 535xi valve cover job. bolt kit is $152 on ebay plus gasket. BMW tech says plastic valve cover likely cracked from codes he pulled and severity of oil leak and cover is $369. do i spend the money and replace the bolts on this job as well?
ive done diesels before and we dont take chances and replace head bolts or studs, but these are lightweight bolts and should retain their stretch for repeated torq. or not...
thoughts?

 

I used new bolts when I did mine. My mechanic friend says that if the manufacturer says to do it, then do it.

 

I really hate to resurrect a dead thread, but I have a question

Is it absolutely necessary to do a relearn of the Valvetronic's mechanical stops using the scan tool?

I have everything else I need to replace the gaskets, but this is the one step I'm unsure about.

 

2010 528i having a high pitch noise in the engine. Thinking it was the belt or the pulley or the alternator replaced all. But still the noise is present. One of our my friend suggested taking serpentine belt out and start the car. But still noise still there. Doing a deeper research i have a problem with crankcase vent valve. wanted to ask the experienced opinion if i have to replace the crankcase valve cover? thanks in advance

 

Great write up! Used it to replace valve cover gasket on my 07 530i.

I replaced at 170,000 miles and I'd recommend anyone doing this in higher mileage cars to also buy a replacement crankcase breather hose (#9 in that diagram).

These things are super brittle at high mileage and break super easily. Mine disintegrate at the connector the minute I applied barely an force to get it off. Had to run to the dealership and pay $100 for a new one! I guess the hose is heated and has an electrical connector so that's why they marked it up. I'd say save the money and just buy a new one from FCP Euro or something before attempting the gasket replacement.

 

If the oil was changed in our e60's every 3,000 miles, would we all still need to be changing:

- the valve cover gasket?
- oil pan gasket?

What are the likely oil change mileage intervals so the above two gaskets can have a solid life cycle?