yansito

I just did this diy today, and the results were amazing. The headlights look good as new. Now only time will tell how long it will last, but everyone follow the OP instructions and be wow by the results. Thank you OP! I thank you and my car thank you too! Great instructions by the way.

peachykonan

Hi guys,

I need some help on how to apply the clear.

I posted in a different thread two weeks ago about my success with using the 3M headlight kit, but I got lazy and never applied the clear. Instead, I used Megaiur's headlight protection paste and thought I would be ok for awhile. Two days ago I left a somewhat thick layer of paste on the headlight in anticipation of the car parked out in the sun. This morning I took Shadow out for a car wash and this is what the it looked like when I did a post-wash checkup (below)

Somehow the application has damaged the plastic surface leaving blotchy/cloudy patches. After cursing a bit, I pulled the piece out and resanded it back to perfection. I hit up Home Depot to pick up the components for the clear. The Helmsman Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor was sold out so I picked up Varathane Diamond Spar Urethane Outdoor (water based). I tried a 50/50 mix but since it's water based it wouldn't mix well. The mixture itself looked white/pasty and when applied on the lens, no blending occured (gooey white stripes all over the lens). I had to curse at my idiocy and resanded things back to perfection. Just to doublecheck, I retried the application but it's clear the mix is off.

Can anyone confirm that I should have picked up the oil based Urethane gloss?

Thanks,
Peachy

This morning.


After resanding.


I didn't take a picture of me messing up my clear right afterwards - too heartbreaking (and shameful). After resanding and re-attempting the clear, it's still not good enough. I'm guessing I bought the wrong Urethane product....

turboawd

you bought water-based product? i wasnt aware of it. maybe it would work if you cut it with water?? but i wouldnt use that stuff anyway. big difference between oil and water based sealers.

this is the right stuff.

healthservices

I don't know about you guys but there is no need to get the surface so smooth with a buffer before painting. I like the paint to have something to grab onto. after final sanding with 1500 I clean the plastic really well and paint.

I only color sand and buff the clear if the finish on the clear is not as smooth as I like.

peachykonan

Tried home depot and walmart, apparently this item is no longer carried, no info from store clerks as to why. they eep offering me the water based one as a straight alt, because the oil based ones are honey coloured. Can anyone comfirm if helmsman is honey (oil) coloured?

turboawd

yes its honey colored. try any harware/paint store...ace, menards, sherwinn williams, etc. it shouldnt be hard to find.

healthservices

Do you live in a state like California where toxicity wise the tree huggers are afraid it is bad for the environment and won't allow the sale of the product?

peachykonan

Oh ah... I just moved here, didn't know... I'll try to an oil-based alt, thanks!

Being a tree hugger is a good thing , but our cars need love too !

sereph

Hey guys, just a follow up. Didn't know this post would have followers. Thanks for the compliments. I can tell you that my headlights held up quite well, although I would not recommend going thru those touchless car washes with them. It seems the powerwasher jets are just too strong and peeled some of the sealant and I had to redo it. You are correct that the surface does not need to be completely smooth as the sealant fills in and hides the scratches caused by the sandpaper. I noticed this when some of it peeled off and it is night and day. The areas with the sealant still intact was crystal clear, and still glossy, while the small spots where the sealant was powerwashed off, was hazy. I can't say for sure how much you can "half ass" the sanding and still get good results as it appears the sealant can hide a lot. I basically sanded with each grit for at least 15 mins. If you ever want a good workout I suggest you try this cuz it's tiring as hell hand sanding these things.

As for the sealant not being available in Cali, I think I remember reading somewhere on that it is the case. It is definitely honey colored, and oil based so...

I would guess as well that if you use less mineral spirits maybe 1.5 to 1 instead you might be able to get a thicker coat on there and perhaps more and longer lasting protection. Haven't experimented with the mixture though.

AchtungE60

You should use a real clearcoat not some brushed on stuff. It's not going to last long. I did this DIY a long time ago, it's posted on here in the DIY section. You should stop at about 1000 Grit or wash sponge and then clearcoat. If you don't have the equipment to spray it you can just buy that stuff in an aerosol/whatever can and spray on yourself and allow to cure. The polyurethane that is honey colored is for wood only. Real clearcoat is aggressive and will bond itself to the light and will not peel like this stuff, unless it was not sanded/prepped.