Fuses blowing
#1
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My Ride: 528i
Model Year: 2010 528i e60
Engine: N52k
Fuses blowing
We have a 2010 e60 with the N52k.
The trunk electronic activator latch would not operate. Upon opening the trunk with the key I pulled out the wire loom located in the right side trunk hinge. This is the BMW design fault where everyone has sheered off trunk wires from opening and closing the trunk (because the wires are channeled through the trunk hinge).
Sure enough, all the wires were destroyed from opening and closing the trunk. The brown thick wire was fully cut in half.
I could use a wire butt end connector to connect all the wires, but let's talk about soldering.
When I twist the wires together and put the solder gun on the wires to heat the wire up (so the solder can melt them together), why doesn't the extreme heat being applied to the wires, blow the fuse in the fuse box?
When wires heat up from faults, the fuse is supposed to blow. Shouldn't the heat applied from the solder gun blow the fuse in the glove fuse box?
The trunk electronic activator latch would not operate. Upon opening the trunk with the key I pulled out the wire loom located in the right side trunk hinge. This is the BMW design fault where everyone has sheered off trunk wires from opening and closing the trunk (because the wires are channeled through the trunk hinge).
Sure enough, all the wires were destroyed from opening and closing the trunk. The brown thick wire was fully cut in half.
I could use a wire butt end connector to connect all the wires, but let's talk about soldering.
When I twist the wires together and put the solder gun on the wires to heat the wire up (so the solder can melt them together), why doesn't the extreme heat being applied to the wires, blow the fuse in the fuse box?
When wires heat up from faults, the fuse is supposed to blow. Shouldn't the heat applied from the solder gun blow the fuse in the glove fuse box?
#2
New Members
We have a 2010 e60 with the N52k.
The trunk electronic activator latch would not operate. Upon opening the trunk with the key I pulled out the wire loom located in the right side trunk hinge. This is the BMW design fault where everyone has sheered off trunk wires from opening and closing the trunk (because the wires are channeled through the trunk hinge).
Sure enough, all the wires were destroyed from opening and closing the trunk. The brown thick wire was fully cut in half.
I could use a wire butt end connector to connect all the wires, but let's talk about soldering.
When I twist the wires together and put the solder gun on the wires to heat the wire up (so the solder can melt them together), why doesn't the extreme heat being applied to the wires, blow the fuse in the fuse box?
When wires heat up from faults, the fuse is supposed to blow. Shouldn't the heat applied from the solder gun blow the fuse in the glove fuse box?
The trunk electronic activator latch would not operate. Upon opening the trunk with the key I pulled out the wire loom located in the right side trunk hinge. This is the BMW design fault where everyone has sheered off trunk wires from opening and closing the trunk (because the wires are channeled through the trunk hinge).
Sure enough, all the wires were destroyed from opening and closing the trunk. The brown thick wire was fully cut in half.
I could use a wire butt end connector to connect all the wires, but let's talk about soldering.
When I twist the wires together and put the solder gun on the wires to heat the wire up (so the solder can melt them together), why doesn't the extreme heat being applied to the wires, blow the fuse in the fuse box?
When wires heat up from faults, the fuse is supposed to blow. Shouldn't the heat applied from the solder gun blow the fuse in the glove fuse box?
#4
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#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: pa
Posts: 426
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Received 21 Likes
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20 Posts
My Ride: 528i
Model Year: 2010 528i e60
Engine: N52k
When I was soldering the trunk lid wires back together after they were cut in half (from lifting the trunk lid open and shut after a number if years). I noticed the outside of the white box device in the picture was hot to the touch. It didn't seem right that it should be that hot.
Did heating up the trunk wires for soldering make this white box hot?
I was wondering about the function of the white box to begin with because some e60 models didn't have one mounted next to the rear fuse box.
Did heating up the trunk wires for soldering make this white box hot?
I was wondering about the function of the white box to begin with because some e60 models didn't have one mounted next to the rear fuse box.
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