Finally did a second drain and fill, about 2k after the first drain and fill (changed filter with the initial flush). Now at 64k. Runs great and seems even smoother.

Gets easier to do with experience. Used pentosin.

 

Does anyone know if the information in this thread, which started as a 535i thread, would also apply to my 535xi wagon?

I posted in the E61 wagon forum, but due to the traffic level there, I might not get an answer.

My concern is whether there are any differences owing to the xi's AWD transmission, and/or the wagon setup (larger capacity, or maybe auxiliary transmission cooler? I don't know).

If anyone has any knowledge of differences, I'd appreciate it.

Also, has anyone changed the fluid in the differentials? I'd like to do this as well (I'm at 100k miles).

Thanks,

Sarge

 

Experts can chime-in, based on my readings, I understand that the transmission is the same on all E60/E61. So you would have the same pan/filter/fluid. I was advised to use the ZF tranny fluid only (good price at Bavauto.com).
The AWD systems would have front transfer case and rear differential which would use "gear" oil. I was impressed with the car-specific recommendations for oil/parts that bavauto provided on their site. you would likely be able to know the oil needed for your transfer cases.

 

So this is the first time I'm doing a fluid change on a BMW. Am I understanding this right? You start the car with no fluid and start filling as its running? Also while monitoring the fluid temp?

 

What you do is fill it as full as you can first then start it and continue filling. When the engine isn't running the fluid will start to come back out of the hole well before you've reached the correct level.

 

Read Raj's post.

1st fill is with engine off. When fluid starts coming out put the fill plug in only to stop the oil and not too tight. Start the car and run thru all the gears two seconds in each. Twice. Including reverse. Totaling warming time is approx 5 minutes. At the 4 minute mark get under the car and ready your filler and unscrew the fill plug. At 5 minutes start filling until the oil oozes out again. Put in screw quickly and torque to spec. If you botch the fill (as I did the first time as my fill hose came off), let car cool for one hour. Then run thru the gears as before and refill. (You cannot do a cold fill with engine off as there is oil in the pan) As the oil still was warm from the earlier fill, I went 3 minutes on the warm up. Not sure about the precision here but it worked. The best precision is using a heat scanner or measuring oil removed exactly. Again Raj has a nice post.

I plan to change again at 90 or 100k. Got the hang of it now.

 

Did the diff at 60k along with the tranny oil. Oil was a bit dark. Used mutol oil.

You'll need a big allen socket and pump. 1.75 quarts or so. Driveline felt sharper but maybe my imagination. The easiest DIY short of a oil change.

 

Thanks for the info!

Sorry if this sound like a stupid question, has anyone done this (successfully without lack of space or leverage) on four standard jack stands? Will the height of the jack stands be good enough for a 5'8, 165 pound guy to work under? If not, much weight do I need to lose? :-)

 

Are the pics from the OP showing up for anyone? I posted a topic about it and the admins said it was fixed and I still cant see them. I want to make sure my account isn't jacked.

 

Used rhino ramps on the front and jackstands for the rear. Car driven on ramps, and then jacked at the center diff to fit the two jackstands for the rear. Used esc tuning inserts on the square jacking points.

Plenty of room and takes a little eyeballing to get it level. Also used another jack under the engine to elevate the front an extra inch for room and to tilt the car to get more oil out. Ramps really give you the extra sense of security under the car.