DIY: Shocks install
#51
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My Ride: 550i
About to do that myself, but I replace whole strut, so I need to assemble a new one without seeing the old one. I am confused how to put the washer on: it has a black circle on one side and that side is slightly raised. Can anybody hint me on that?
It's part #6 on the diagram:
It's part #6 on the diagram:
#53
Great Info - Thank you!
Just to add some advice. When the strut is swung out and ready to remove, you can tap a chisel or large screwdriver between the clamp. This allows the strut to slide in/out of position with pretty much zero effort.
Also, remember to inspect/clean and re-grease the top bearing mount. You will notice the roller bearings in there.
Just to add some advice. When the strut is swung out and ready to remove, you can tap a chisel or large screwdriver between the clamp. This allows the strut to slide in/out of position with pretty much zero effort.
Also, remember to inspect/clean and re-grease the top bearing mount. You will notice the roller bearings in there.
#55
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My Ride: 2008 535i JB4
I think theoretically this chisel idea should work, unfortunately, I did not have one or a screw driver thick enough. I still managed to get the fronts swapped out this weekend. Wrench to pry open the clamp portion and hammer tapping out the strut. Steps were easy but sweat pouring hard work! It went back in much more easily.
A side note, using a jack (used the OEM jack from the trunk) to jack from the bottom of the control arm after putting on the strut spring compressor (tightening at the same time you jack it up), the overall length of the strut was short enough to easily tilt out. Without it, I could not clear without scraping the wheel well fender. I had stock sports suspension.
Brakes and spark plugs should be arriving any day now so I'll change those out before wheels go back on and do the rears next weekend.
I have a question about the cambers (kmac stage 2), is this something we can adjust on our own or should have it professionally aligned and keep the settings handy afterwords? I see how it floats around but not sure if the 3pc plates were installed correctly. I couldn't make much sense out of the instructions provided. Having them only on the front ok or should I not have them at all?
thanks
-p
A side note, using a jack (used the OEM jack from the trunk) to jack from the bottom of the control arm after putting on the strut spring compressor (tightening at the same time you jack it up), the overall length of the strut was short enough to easily tilt out. Without it, I could not clear without scraping the wheel well fender. I had stock sports suspension.
Brakes and spark plugs should be arriving any day now so I'll change those out before wheels go back on and do the rears next weekend.
I have a question about the cambers (kmac stage 2), is this something we can adjust on our own or should have it professionally aligned and keep the settings handy afterwords? I see how it floats around but not sure if the 3pc plates were installed correctly. I couldn't make much sense out of the instructions provided. Having them only on the front ok or should I not have them at all?
thanks
-p
Great Info - Thank you!
Just to add some advice. When the strut is swung out and ready to remove, you can tap a chisel or large screwdriver between the clamp. This allows the strut to slide in/out of position with pretty much zero effort.
Also, remember to inspect/clean and re-grease the top bearing mount. You will notice the roller bearings in there.
Just to add some advice. When the strut is swung out and ready to remove, you can tap a chisel or large screwdriver between the clamp. This allows the strut to slide in/out of position with pretty much zero effort.
Also, remember to inspect/clean and re-grease the top bearing mount. You will notice the roller bearings in there.
#56
One more suggestion when replacing struts - you might as well replace the upper control arms too if you have > 80K miles. You need to remove the strut to do this job. It's simple once the strut is out. (The lower control arms can be replaced without removing the strut).
#57
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My Ride: 530i
Model Year: 2006
Engine: N52
Wanted to add a note about the two tools suggested to loosen/tighten the upper strut securing nut.
I found a 13/16" #30731 ProValue deep socket w/hex top for wrenching.
When my shocks arrived from Rock Auto included with them was the top nut. The 13/16" socket does not fully fit over the nut! It is an extremely tight fit. I can tap it down onto the nut, but I al afraid of the socket becoming jammed. Bummer.
So I am now looking for a 21 mm deep socket with same upper hex stamp for a wrench.
As to the Wera series 1 867/2 Torx bit, I found this at KC Tool in Kansas. KNIPEX and Wiha Tools Specialist, KC Tool - The smart place to buy Wiha Tools..
The item list is http://www.kctoolco.com/Wera-867-2-Z-T40-x-100mm-Torx-Bit-5-16-Drive-p/wr066939.htm
The price was more reasonable than Amazon and the shipping is by USPS for almost 1/2 of what was calculated on Amazon.
More to come as I get further into this.
I found a 13/16" #30731 ProValue deep socket w/hex top for wrenching.
When my shocks arrived from Rock Auto included with them was the top nut. The 13/16" socket does not fully fit over the nut! It is an extremely tight fit. I can tap it down onto the nut, but I al afraid of the socket becoming jammed. Bummer.
So I am now looking for a 21 mm deep socket with same upper hex stamp for a wrench.
As to the Wera series 1 867/2 Torx bit, I found this at KC Tool in Kansas. KNIPEX and Wiha Tools Specialist, KC Tool - The smart place to buy Wiha Tools..
The item list is http://www.kctoolco.com/Wera-867-2-Z-T40-x-100mm-Torx-Bit-5-16-Drive-p/wr066939.htm
The price was more reasonable than Amazon and the shipping is by USPS for almost 1/2 of what was calculated on Amazon.
More to come as I get further into this.
Last edited by gcalo; 11-27-2013 at 12:29 PM.
#58
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My Ride: 2007 550i, Silver, LOADED
I finally have the time to do this project(just the front for now ).
Fast Times Bavauto Newsletter Summer 2006.
1. Raise the front wheels off the ground by jacking up and supporting the front of the vehicle using
appropriate jack stands. Remove the wheels. I placed another 2Ton jack under the engine jacking point for added safety.
Put chocks on the rear wheel.
Attachment 89873
2 Disconnect and set aside the ABS sender and brake pad wear sensor wires. Open plastic box and take cables out
(there are 2 on driver's side, one on the passenger side). Unlatched wires from the spindle bracket.
Attachment 89874
3 Loosen the 2 strut-to-spindle bolts (18mm and 16mm).
Attachment 89875
Fast Times Bavauto Newsletter Summer 2006.
1. Raise the front wheels off the ground by jacking up and supporting the front of the vehicle using
appropriate jack stands. Remove the wheels. I placed another 2Ton jack under the engine jacking point for added safety.
Put chocks on the rear wheel.
Attachment 89873
2 Disconnect and set aside the ABS sender and brake pad wear sensor wires. Open plastic box and take cables out
(there are 2 on driver's side, one on the passenger side). Unlatched wires from the spindle bracket.
Attachment 89874
3 Loosen the 2 strut-to-spindle bolts (18mm and 16mm).
Attachment 89875
Which shocks did you install?
I read in this series, something about M-sport?
BTW, great right up!!
#59
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My Ride: 530i
Model Year: 2006
Engine: N52
I purchased from Rock Auto the Sachs 310379 and 310380. They were $349.00 total including the UPS freight.
My 530i has the factory sport suspension and Dynamic Drive. I believe the factory sport is referred as Msport.
My 530i has the factory sport suspension and Dynamic Drive. I believe the factory sport is referred as Msport.
#60
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My Ride: 530i
Model Year: 2004
Engine: M54
Are you sure those part numbers are accurate? I just looked them up and while they did pull up Sachs shocks, there is nothing in the footnotes about being for cars equipped with 'Sport' or 'M' suspensions.