DIY: e60 N54 coil pack and spark plug replacement
#1
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DIY: e60 N54 coil pack and spark plug replacement
I did this today and didn't see (couldn't find) any write ups on how to do this so I figured I'd contribute. Most of the write ups I found were for the 335 which is slightly different, so here it is for the 535.
What you need
Spark plugs x 6 (Bosch ZGR6STE2)
14mm thin walled socket to remove plugs (must be thin walled)
13mm socket with appropriate extension/ratchet
5mm allen wrench (3/16 also works)
Torx 25 screwdriver or socket
Torx 45 socket with appropriate extension/ratchet
Flat head screwdriver
(Optional) Coil packs if replacing
E60 535 engine bay for reference:
Step 1: Remove driver and passenger side cabin air filter and associated plastic bases.
Tools needed from above: 13mm socket, t25 screwdriver, flat head screwdriver. Pictures shown below are from the passenger side, driver’s side is a mirror image except that there are no sensors to unplug
1a: Disconnect the sensors attached to the cabin air filter housing (there are two)
1b: Use a flat head screw driver to gently pry holding clip towards center of engine bay, then use a 13mm socket to turn the plastic securing bolt 1/4 turn. There is only one on the filter housing; it is located towards the outside front of the housing, then remove the housing and set aside.
1c: Release 3 plastic securing bolts located towards the center of the car, and using a T25 screwdriver/socket, remove the screw holding plastic tray to the strut tower
1d: Remove rubber weather stripping by lifiting straight up and pulling, it needs to be removed along the entire length of the engine bay, but can remain clipped in on either side. Also remove the rubber tray located under the hood shock.
1e: Remove the retaining slider by lifting the clip and sliding towards the driver’s side of the car. Under the retaining slider, there is one more plastic securing bolt holding the two sides together, release that.
1f: Remove the tray by sliding slightly towards the center of the car and lifting from the middle. Then repeat these steps on the opposite side.
Step 2: Remove strut tower brace.
Tools needed from above: T45 socket with appropriate extension/ratchet.
There are 4 bolts holding the brace to the car located on each strut tower, as well as two in the middle. After removing these 4 bolts, gently pry the cable holder off the strut bar with a flat head screwdriver.
Step 3: Remove plastic engine cover to gain access to the coils and plugs
Tools needed from above: 5mm allen wrench.
There are 3 bolts, 2 towards the front and 1 towards the rear.
You’ve now gained access to the coils and (eventually) plugs!!
Here is what it should look like:
Step 4: No tools needed, just your hands. Release coil connector by GENTLY lifting the clip. As you lift the clip, it should push out the actual connector, then remove the connector the rest of the way from the coil.
Step 5: No tools needed, just your hands. Remove the coil from the plug, it may be difficult to remove, just lift up on it and it should pull out, there are no retaining clips or screws, they just set in there.
Step 6: Now you can remove the spark plug and replace! Tighten to 23 NM (17 lb ft), no more, no less. Replace the coil pack by pressing down tightly, ensure that no one coil pack is sitting any higher than the others. You may want to start the engine once done replacing coil packs to ensure the engine runs smoothly, then turn off again before putting everything back on the car.
Repeat these steps in reverse and you are done. This is easily do-able in 1 to 1.5 hours time.
Pictures were sourced from multiple places and some edited by me.
What you need
Spark plugs x 6 (Bosch ZGR6STE2)
14mm thin walled socket to remove plugs (must be thin walled)
13mm socket with appropriate extension/ratchet
5mm allen wrench (3/16 also works)
Torx 25 screwdriver or socket
Torx 45 socket with appropriate extension/ratchet
Flat head screwdriver
(Optional) Coil packs if replacing
E60 535 engine bay for reference:
Step 1: Remove driver and passenger side cabin air filter and associated plastic bases.
Tools needed from above: 13mm socket, t25 screwdriver, flat head screwdriver. Pictures shown below are from the passenger side, driver’s side is a mirror image except that there are no sensors to unplug
1a: Disconnect the sensors attached to the cabin air filter housing (there are two)
1b: Use a flat head screw driver to gently pry holding clip towards center of engine bay, then use a 13mm socket to turn the plastic securing bolt 1/4 turn. There is only one on the filter housing; it is located towards the outside front of the housing, then remove the housing and set aside.
1c: Release 3 plastic securing bolts located towards the center of the car, and using a T25 screwdriver/socket, remove the screw holding plastic tray to the strut tower
1d: Remove rubber weather stripping by lifiting straight up and pulling, it needs to be removed along the entire length of the engine bay, but can remain clipped in on either side. Also remove the rubber tray located under the hood shock.
1e: Remove the retaining slider by lifting the clip and sliding towards the driver’s side of the car. Under the retaining slider, there is one more plastic securing bolt holding the two sides together, release that.
1f: Remove the tray by sliding slightly towards the center of the car and lifting from the middle. Then repeat these steps on the opposite side.
Step 2: Remove strut tower brace.
Tools needed from above: T45 socket with appropriate extension/ratchet.
There are 4 bolts holding the brace to the car located on each strut tower, as well as two in the middle. After removing these 4 bolts, gently pry the cable holder off the strut bar with a flat head screwdriver.
Step 3: Remove plastic engine cover to gain access to the coils and plugs
Tools needed from above: 5mm allen wrench.
There are 3 bolts, 2 towards the front and 1 towards the rear.
You’ve now gained access to the coils and (eventually) plugs!!
Here is what it should look like:
Step 4: No tools needed, just your hands. Release coil connector by GENTLY lifting the clip. As you lift the clip, it should push out the actual connector, then remove the connector the rest of the way from the coil.
Step 5: No tools needed, just your hands. Remove the coil from the plug, it may be difficult to remove, just lift up on it and it should pull out, there are no retaining clips or screws, they just set in there.
Step 6: Now you can remove the spark plug and replace! Tighten to 23 NM (17 lb ft), no more, no less. Replace the coil pack by pressing down tightly, ensure that no one coil pack is sitting any higher than the others. You may want to start the engine once done replacing coil packs to ensure the engine runs smoothly, then turn off again before putting everything back on the car.
Repeat these steps in reverse and you are done. This is easily do-able in 1 to 1.5 hours time.
Pictures were sourced from multiple places and some edited by me.
#2
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My Ride: Alpine White 2010 535 M-Sport
Nice writeup, Thanks. At what point do you think the coil packs need replacement. Just had plugs done at 50K under warranty.
#3
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I just put in JB4 and had a really bad misfire. I pulled the codes and had a misfire in cylinder 3, I started with the plugs but also moved the coil from cylinder 3 to cylinder 1 while I was in there. The plugs helped a bit but then the misfire came back after a complete warm up. Ran the codes and it was now at cylinder 1 so I knew it was the coil.
The car is a 2008 535xi with 61k on it. I only replaced 1 coil, car runs perfect again.
The car is a 2008 535xi with 61k on it. I only replaced 1 coil, car runs perfect again.
#4
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My Ride: 01 E39 M5/08 535xit
I just put in JB4 and had a really bad misfire. I pulled the codes and had a misfire in cylinder 3, I started with the plugs but also moved the coil from cylinder 3 to cylinder 1 while I was in there. The plugs helped a bit but then the misfire came back after a complete warm up. Ran the codes and it was now at cylinder 1 so I knew it was the coil.
The car is a 2008 535xi with 61k on it. I only replaced 1 coil, car runs perfect again.
The car is a 2008 535xi with 61k on it. I only replaced 1 coil, car runs perfect again.
#5
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I bought my coil from eeuroparts.com, used them for years with my saabs.
You mean check engine codes? I always simply search Google with. "bmw p####" with great results.
You mean check engine codes? I always simply search Google with. "bmw p####" with great results.
#6
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My Ride: 01 E39 M5/08 535xit
Changed plugs yesterday. Super easy on the N54. The only thing missing from this DIY is that on my car there is a 4th 5mm screw on the cover.
New plugs and now no more codes!
New plugs and now no more codes!
#7
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My Ride: 08 535xi
#8
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My Ride: 2003 e39 stock!
What is the torque for the T45 socket for the 4 bolts holding the brace to the car located on each strut tower? I've ordered the Bentley manual and it is in transit but I'd be happy to knock out this project tomorrow morning.
#9
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My Ride: E60 535i
Model Year: 2008
First time took me about little over an hour to get to the plugs.
Second time around took me 20 min to get to the plugs.
VERY easy to do. Love the feeling of saving money from taking her in
#10
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My Ride: 2008 BMW 535i Silver - E60
Thanks.