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Changing Springs on Xi

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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 06:21 PM
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Ok Guys and Gals, as some of you may know Calton and I are the first to have the XI lowered here on the forum. Calton took his to a local shop and I did my own install. I figuered that I would do a little write up to help those who are going to change their springs themselves or even take to a shop other than BMW. This should help you to keep from getting ripped off becasuse this should be a 3- 3.5 hr job. If there are multiple people working it should be less time than that. So lets get started. Oh if you dont have air tools and are very mechanically inclined please don't try this install.

The Fronts ( this is the most challanging)

The obvious jack up car and remove wheels. Place a jack stand on the frame under the lower control arm for safty.
1. remove nut on bolt that clamps the strut to the spindle, remove harness that hold brake lines and replace nut so that it is not lost. 2. On front side of spindle with allen wrench remove sensor. 3. Remove two bolts on the back side of the brake caliper so that it may be removed. 4. Remove Nut on stabalizer bar from the strut ( you may need to place jack under the a arm and lift a bit so tension is off of the bolt) 5. Remove the nut on the tie rod end, then the two control arms. These are the bolts that are on the spindle. Use a pry fork to free bolt from spindle. 6. Now the fun part. with a sharpie make marks on the Centric bolt on the lower contol arm. This is where the rubber bushing are, should be right above the jack stand. This is very important so that you know where to tighten it back to. Loosen the nut so that the arm swings down freely but do not remove. 7. Loosen Hub bolt it is a 36mm 12 point, now take a metal rod and place on axle and whack rod with plastic mallet to push axle out of spindle. 8. Remove 3 strut bolts under the hood ( it would be good if someone is there to catch the strut assembly) 9. Now you have the assmbly out get your spring compressors on the springs and clamp it down then remove center strut bolt. Pull spring off and put the bump stop back on. Add new springs then compress down add center strut bolt and you are ready for reassembly. Just follow the steps backwards for reinstall.

The Rear Pretty easy

Jack car and place jack stand on the 3rd member.

1. Remove Shock bolt that is on the back side of the shock going into the hub ( it is easier to use a box end wrench with a breaker bar to get this unless you have air ratchet but mine would not fit so I used the box end. 2. Mark the centric bolts and nuts on the Control arm on both sides, so you may tighten back to where it was. 3. remove the 3 strut tower nuts. Once loose tip strut back toward the bottom of the control arm pull out and wahla. re assemble and you are now lowered.

I hope this helps if anyone has more questions please ask.
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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Thanks for the DIY guide. I will def. bring it with me when taking my car to the shop to install the springs.
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Old Apr 9, 2007 | 07:39 PM
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Nice write up KU!

Rudy/Iceman - Can you put this in the DIY section? This is good for other owners of the xi to have available.
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by KU530' post='411915' date='Apr 9 2007, 10:21 PM
Ok Guys and Gals, as some of you may know Calton and I are the first to have the XI lowered here on the forum. Calton took his to a local shop and I did my own install. I figuered that I would do a little write up to help those who are going to change their springs themselves or even take to a shop other than BMW. This should help you to keep from getting ripped off becasuse this should be a 3- 3.5 hr job. If there are multiple people working it should be less time than that. So lets get started. Oh if you dont have air tools and are very mechanically inclined please don't try this install.

The Fronts ( this is the most challanging)

The obvious jack up car and remove wheels. Place a jack stand on the frame under the lower control arm for safty.
1. remove nut on bolt that clamps the strut to the spindle, remove harness that hold brake lines and replace nut so that it is not lost. 2. On front side of spindle with allen wrench remove sensor. 3. Remove two bolts on the back side of the brake caliper so that it may be removed. 4. Remove Nut on stabalizer bar from the strut ( you may need to place jack under the a arm and lift a bit so tension is off of the bolt) 5. Remove the nut on the tie rod end, then the two control arms. These are the bolts that are on the spindle. Use a pry fork to free bolt from spindle. 6. Now the fun part. with a sharpie make marks on the Centric bolt on the lower contol arm. This is where the rubber bushing are, should be right above the jack stand. This is very important so that you know where to tighten it back to. Loosen the nut so that the arm swings down freely but do not remove. 7. Loosen Hub bolt it is a 36mm 12 point, now take a metal rod and place on axle and whack rod with plastic mallet to push axle out of spindle. 8. Remove 3 strut bolts under the hood ( it would be good if someone is there to catch the strut assembly) 9. Now you have the assmbly out get your spring compressors on the springs and clamp it down then remove center strut bolt. Pull spring off and put the bump stop back on. Add new springs then compress down add center strut bolt and you are ready for reassembly. Just follow the steps backwards for reinstall.

The Rear Pretty easy

Jack car and place jack stand on the 3rd member.

1. Remove Shock bolt that is on the back side of the shock going into the hub ( it is easier to use a box end wrench with a breaker bar to get this unless you have air ratchet but mine would not fit so I used the box end. 2. Mark the centric bolts and nuts on the Control arm on both sides, so you may tighten back to where it was. 3. remove the 3 strut tower nuts. Once loose tip strut back toward the bottom of the control arm pull out and wahla. re assemble and you are now lowered.

I hope this helps if anyone has more questions please ask.
Very nice write up. It will be excellent if you could post some pictures regarding to making the mark on the nut and other components. It is easy to understand when seeing the pictures than reading the text.
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by lcc014' post='412033' date='Apr 10 2007, 09:05 AM
Very nice write up. It will be excellent if you could post some pictures regarding to making the mark on the nut and other components. It is easy to understand when seeing the pictures than reading the text.
Hahahaha! Hey KU - Can you start over and take pictures for all of us? He's right ya know.
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 09:05 AM
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yea I will jump right on that for ya. LOL
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by KU530' post='412094' date='Apr 10 2007, 11:05 AM
yea I will jump right on that for ya. LOL
Awesome thanks, we'll be waiting!! Haha. Seriously.
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Old Apr 10, 2007 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by blinkme_210' post='412261' date='Apr 10 2007, 09:03 PM
Awesome thanks, we'll be waiting!! Haha. Seriously.
Alex - Stop delaying the inevitable and just go get the springs installed already! You're killing me! Go, hurry! You'll be happier.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cmansbimmer' post='412274' date='Apr 10 2007, 07:07 PM
Alex - Stop delaying the inevitable and just go get the springs installed already! You're killing me! Go, hurry! You'll be happier.
If they come in, mine will be done friday, if not, they'll be done tuesday.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 07:32 AM
  #10  
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My Ride: 2009 535XI, Barbera Red with beige leather, Navigation, premium package, cold weather package, 18 inch wheels, 2007 530XI, Monaco Blue with Auburn leather , Navigation, Logic 7, premium package, cold weather package, M-Aero kit, Rear Spoiler, 18 inch 135m style wheels, Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3's, AngeliBrights. 2008 650i convertible Titaniun Silver Chateau pearl leather,Gray top, cold weather package, Logic 7 premium sound, comfort access.
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Originally Posted by cmansbimmer' post='412274' date='Apr 10 2007, 10:07 PM
Alex - Stop delaying the inevitable and just go get the springs installed already! You're killing me! Go, hurry! You'll be happier.
I still can't find a reliable shop in CT to do the work. Any suggestions? I'm probably going to bite the bullet soon and have the dealer do it for $1,200+ which sucks! :thumbsdown:
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