Battery Safety Terminal Bypass
06-08-2020 | 03:22 AM
#61
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,672
Likes: 326
From: Augusta, GA
My Ride: 05 530i M54
Model Year: 05 530i
Engine: 3.0 M54
You are cutting the wrong cables. You're going to need a new positive cable and code it to you vehicle.
The video that was posted only had you cut the SRS cable to attach a resistor. I don't like the whole cutting part. It's too easy to find one in the junk yard to make the pigtail needed.
The video that was posted only had you cut the SRS cable to attach a resistor. I don't like the whole cutting part. It's too easy to find one in the junk yard to make the pigtail needed.
Last edited by seanjordan20; 06-08-2020 at 03:30 AM.
08-22-2020 | 09:18 AM
#62
Probation Members
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Belgium
My Ride: e61 523i Mpack, e39 520d business pack
Hi, how you folks doing, Im new to this site and to the BMW world, just a week ago I bought a 2005 BMW 545i and when I got it, she was running like a champ. Then out of the blue she decided to give me an airbag light. To say the least, I was pissed and was wondering what caused it. My brother works at a Chevy stealership and he has a scan tool for BMWs, so we hooked it up and the error code was 9aff. After some searching on the internet and figuring out what it was, I found the Z3 deleting BST thread on bimmerfest.com. I used that as a guild and made my own DIY mod. I would like to share the bypass or delete of the BST if you would like to save yourself money and the hassel of the stealership. This works, no airbag light for me anymore. All that is needed is a 2 ohm resistor and a soldering iron. Just cut the two black wire and place the resistor inline of the BST. Next tuck the wires away neatly and have the computer cleared of the airbag light and it should be good to go.
03-22-2021 | 06:01 AM
#63
Probation Members
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
My Ride: BMW E60 530i, E39 M5, E36 323ic
Problem and solution for me with: code 9B01 (Open circuit. firing circuit. "battery safety terminal"). My solution was to disconnect both battery post connetors and then re-adjusting all the small wires and connections going to the BST and IBS. Not sure how long it will last though, it's working now and I am happy about that.
This problem actually caused a lot of other codes as well, however the other codes cleared and did not come back. The only one that would not stay cleared was the 9B01. I think it was caused by a low charge on the battery, a failed battery charger or possibly from me accidently disconnecting the IBS cable on the negative cable.
I was able to solve the problem by disconnecting the ground (negative) Battery cable and then the Postive connection. I then disconnected the small BST connector and attached my OHM meter to the BST plug (by inserting small paper clips into the female end of BST connector) going to the battery end of the cable. It measured .2 ohms or you could say close to ZERO. I believe this was the problem (and the reason for the code 9B01 & the iDrive passanger restraint warning). However I also noticed that the terminal itself had not fired and was still providing full power to the starter and had ZERO resistance on the the starter side go to the battery post connector. In addition the BST (FUSE or whatever it's called) was not loose. So the next step was just dumb luck on my part, and we will see how long it lasts. I left the OHM meter connected to the BST plug going to the batter terminal and started adjusting or could say wiggling all the small wire connects on the IBS and BST. I also disconnected the IBS cable for a couple of minutes. Then after re-adjusting all the small wires and connections I looked at the ohm meter and it was reading 3.8 ohms. I thought well this looks correct. So I re-connected the battery posts and sure enough I was able to clear the code without it coming back. I wish I could say exactly why adjusting all the small cables fixed this. Was it simply having both cables disconnected for a period of time and thus a capacitance fix, or was a small cable shorted somewhere and I removed the short by adjusting everything.
Wanted to share my experience in case it helps. There obviously is an advantage to getting it back to factory spec. It could save your life after a crash by preventing a fire.
This problem actually caused a lot of other codes as well, however the other codes cleared and did not come back. The only one that would not stay cleared was the 9B01. I think it was caused by a low charge on the battery, a failed battery charger or possibly from me accidently disconnecting the IBS cable on the negative cable.
I was able to solve the problem by disconnecting the ground (negative) Battery cable and then the Postive connection. I then disconnected the small BST connector and attached my OHM meter to the BST plug (by inserting small paper clips into the female end of BST connector) going to the battery end of the cable. It measured .2 ohms or you could say close to ZERO. I believe this was the problem (and the reason for the code 9B01 & the iDrive passanger restraint warning). However I also noticed that the terminal itself had not fired and was still providing full power to the starter and had ZERO resistance on the the starter side go to the battery post connector. In addition the BST (FUSE or whatever it's called) was not loose. So the next step was just dumb luck on my part, and we will see how long it lasts. I left the OHM meter connected to the BST plug going to the batter terminal and started adjusting or could say wiggling all the small wire connects on the IBS and BST. I also disconnected the IBS cable for a couple of minutes. Then after re-adjusting all the small wires and connections I looked at the ohm meter and it was reading 3.8 ohms. I thought well this looks correct. So I re-connected the battery posts and sure enough I was able to clear the code without it coming back. I wish I could say exactly why adjusting all the small cables fixed this. Was it simply having both cables disconnected for a period of time and thus a capacitance fix, or was a small cable shorted somewhere and I removed the short by adjusting everything.
Wanted to share my experience in case it helps. There obviously is an advantage to getting it back to factory spec. It could save your life after a crash by preventing a fire.
04-02-2021 | 01:37 PM
#64
New Members
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: birmingham
My Ride: bmw 525d m sport auto e60
i found that if i cut the two black wires and left the little black plug attached so i could then "plug" the bypass back into the car circuit it didnt work..the two pins on the black plug were loose and it was coming back on, plus the plug was interfering with the resistance value. so i cut the 2 wires more towards the car loom side rather than towards battery if that makes sense and put the resistor in before the black plug.
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