Alright guys and gals, First off, i must thank Bruce for his patience with me and hes been very helpful in this process. I have tried to take all the important pics so someone that wants to follow, can easily. I have not completed the project yet due to shortage of BMW connectors, but will take more pictures and explain better once i continue, but for now this is what i have and will be updating.

OK, Things you need:

1. Amp
2. Speaker wire (14 gauge)
3. BMW part 61 13 1 376 204---> Quantity- 25 (5 extra just in case you mess up)
4. BMW part 61 13 1 376 193---> Quantity- 25 (5 extra just in case you mess up)
5. BMW plug part no 61 13 1 383 502--->- 2


Here is the wiring diagram to be used:
GE Yellow
GN Green
GR Grey
RT Red
SW Black
BL Blue
WS White
BR Brown

AZB is the Line level outputs from the amp and ZB are the speaker connections.



4.0 RT/GN pin 10 +ve [12V+ line]
4.0 BR pin 20 -ve [12V- line or earth]
0.35 WS/VI pin 9 RAD_ON [Remote on]

0.75 SW/VI pin 13 AZBL- [Line level Left input -ve]
0.75 SW/RT pin 3 AZBL+ [Line level Left input +ve]
0.75 SW/BR pin 4 AZBR- [Line level Right input -ve]
0.75 SW/WS pin 14 AZBR+ [Line level Right input +ve]

2.5 RT/WS pin 8 ZBL+ [Speaker output Left +ve] --> red and white LEFT +
2.5 BR/GE pin 18 ZBL- [Speaker output Left -ve]--> brown and green LEFT -
2.5 RT/BL pin 6 ZBR+ [Speaker output Right +ve]--> red and blue RIGHT +
2.5 BR/WS pin 16 ZBR- [Speaker output Right -ve]--> brown and white Right -


http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.p...+wiring+diagram (just in case) ( this post shows you the actual wires and more)


Directions:
1.You will unplug the original BMW PLUG and connect into the MALE PLUG which then should follow up to the AMP and also into the FEMALE PLUG.
2.The Sub outputs which are listed above (pins 8,18,6,16) connect from MALE into the AMP's suboutput. The rest of the wiring will connect into the Female PLUG.
3. From the Amp, 4 other sub outputs will plug into the Female connector, Then the Female PLUG will connect back into the L7 amp.
4. The ground and Power cables will be updated once i complete the project.

 

oh man this looks great

i wonder if the sound improvement for the woofers pays off though

 

it should if not my next step is to replace the stock subs with Earthquake sws-8, which have good reviews on their performance.

 

Aresh, be careful with what you are doing here. You are following the guides for a Hi-Fi AMP removal but you have L7 so all the colours and the wires may be different. Have you checked to see if the sub outputs on the L7 are in the same places as the Hi-Fi amps?

Also your wiring on the amp looks messed up as well. You should have only 4 wires coming out of the speaker output on the amp and then should go to the male plug. The 4 wires coming from the female plug should go to the plug on the amp called speaker inputs. I can't understand why you have those blue and gold wires connected to the same things.

 

OK i just finished and it works like a charm, there are a few changes, The input was wrong and i had to connect it into the speaker sensing turn on like Bruce mentioned.

-The male connector is no good because it will not line up perfectly and will leave one pin missing which is impossible to plug in...So you NEED ONLY 1 PLUG NOT 2..... So instead of the plug, you will need to connect directly into the original harness. To keep them intact you can zip tie the base and it will hold very well.

-Another Extremely important thing is when you add in the Female pins you have to push them in really hard, i ended up usign a mini screwdriver and pushing them up. The first time i plugged everything in, nothing worked because they were halfway up in the FEMALE PLUG.

- I zip tied the power and ground wire on top of the trunk area, there were some holes you can use.

I Will take more pics for more clarity, for now this is what i have

 

From where did you buy item #5 (BMW plug part no 61 13 1 383 502)?

 

you can buy the parts from your local dealer or Gary at BMW NEWPORT. The dealers will have to order them in for you. the only change in the supplies is that you will need only 1 connector which will be the Female PLUG.

Quick Update:
- I am using the stock subs and the difference is HUGE.
- My eq settings are Left to Right( -20235-24) Concert Hall
- LP filter is on ~130
- The bass hits HARD, not boomy, i actually have to lower the bass now ( it feels like my 2 12' kickers in my Truck but cleaner)

 

Wow! seem complicating but nice write up

 

one question- instead of doing it this way, why not remove the 4 pins for the sub output from the original harness, connect those to the output of your new amp, and plug new wires into the original harness to feed the new amp inputs?