Painting the hood, questions.
05-12-2010, 03:46 AM
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My Ride: 2006 530i
2007 750i
Being annoyed by numerous stone chips I decided to paint the whole hood instead of some questionable "smart repair" spot treatment.
I've got what seems to be a good deal on repainting the hood. Seems like a clean workshop and knowledgable guys.
But I'd still like to know myself, what are the things to look out for, what can they do wrong, are there different ways of doing it? E.g. I've heard it's maybe not a good idea to dismount the hood, because reattaching it might be a problem. What if they want to do it, should I explicitly ask them not to? And in that case, would the paintjob have any drawbacks?
I've got what seems to be a good deal on repainting the hood. Seems like a clean workshop and knowledgable guys.
But I'd still like to know myself, what are the things to look out for, what can they do wrong, are there different ways of doing it? E.g. I've heard it's maybe not a good idea to dismount the hood, because reattaching it might be a problem. What if they want to do it, should I explicitly ask them not to? And in that case, would the paintjob have any drawbacks?
05-13-2010, 08:25 AM
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My Ride: '04 545i, sport pkg, premium sound, sprint booster,
This is my opinion, to get your hood properly repainted it needs to be taken off the car. The paint needs to be removed to the bare metal so that it can be properly primered, painted and clear coated. Attempting this while the hood is still on the car would be difficult at best and chances of paint over spray or damage to your car might be a possibility. Also over time the quality of the paint job would degrade quickly.
Getting it done properly the first time which may be more expensive but in the end you will be happier. Oh and if you can afford it, put a 3M coating or something similiar over the clear coat to better protect it.
Getting it done properly the first time which may be more expensive but in the end you will be happier. Oh and if you can afford it, put a 3M coating or something similiar over the clear coat to better protect it.
05-13-2010, 09:41 AM
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This is my opinion, to get your hood properly repainted it needs to be taken off the car. The paint needs to be removed to the bare metal so that it can be properly primered, painted and clear coated. Attempting this while the hood is still on the car would be difficult at best and chances of paint over spray or damage to your car might be a possibility. Also over time the quality of the paint job would degrade quickly.
Getting it done properly the first time which may be more expensive but in the end you will be happier. Oh and if you can afford it, put a 3M coating or something similiar over the clear coat to better protect it.
Getting it done properly the first time which may be more expensive but in the end you will be happier. Oh and if you can afford it, put a 3M coating or something similiar over the clear coat to better protect it.
You don't need to strip it to "bare metal" either. Electrolyte undercoating that is put on aluminum hood at the factory, then sealers and primers can NOT be duplicated at repair shop. Good shop can come close at a very $$$ price, but only close. Paint is only as good as preparation work under the paint, and none is better than factory.
Second, make sure they don't overspray the edges of the hood, but rather mask it, and then REMOVE/POLISH OUT masking tape edge from the edge of the hood. Feel it with your hand after the job is done. DO NOT let them overspray your fenders or other adjacent body parts with clear (they can tell you its required for proper paint matching - its not - good shops can match paint perfectly without overspraying). If your paint is metallic, make sure there are no sand marks ghosting under the paint/clear - sometimes you can see those at a certain angle if the job is not well done. Good luck.
05-13-2010, 09:48 AM
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DO NOT, under any circumstances, remove the hood from the vehicle while repainting. This is simply not required. This will save you mounting problems, aligning problems, etc. Also, if you take the hood off the car, a knowledgeable person could always tell it was taken off, thus bringing unwanted questions and doubt for potential future buyer.
You don't need to strip it to "bare metal" either. Electrolyte undercoating that is put on aluminum hood at the factory, then sealers and primers can NOT be duplicated at repair shop. Good shop can come close at a very $$$ price, but only close. Paint is only as good as preparation work under the paint, and none is better than factory.
Second, make sure they don't overspray the edges of the hood, but rather mask it, and then REMOVE/POLISH OUT masking tape edge from the edge of the hood. Feel it with your hand after the job is done. DO NOT let them overspray your fenders or other adjacent body parts with clear (they can tell you its required for proper paint matching - its not - good shops can match paint perfectly without overspraying). If your paint is metallic, make sure there are no sand marks ghosting under the paint/clear - sometimes you can see those at a certain angle if the job is not well done. Good luck.
You don't need to strip it to "bare metal" either. Electrolyte undercoating that is put on aluminum hood at the factory, then sealers and primers can NOT be duplicated at repair shop. Good shop can come close at a very $$$ price, but only close. Paint is only as good as preparation work under the paint, and none is better than factory.
Second, make sure they don't overspray the edges of the hood, but rather mask it, and then REMOVE/POLISH OUT masking tape edge from the edge of the hood. Feel it with your hand after the job is done. DO NOT let them overspray your fenders or other adjacent body parts with clear (they can tell you its required for proper paint matching - its not - good shops can match paint perfectly without overspraying). If your paint is metallic, make sure there are no sand marks ghosting under the paint/clear - sometimes you can see those at a certain angle if the job is not well done. Good luck.
also i heard of some shops put it in an oven... is this true??? it suppossed to make the paint stick more and give it an OEM feel and look
05-13-2010, 10:10 AM
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Heating will not speed up the process, or make paint look better.
learn something new every day! Shows you what I know on this subject. 
05-13-2010, 04:24 PM
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DO NOT, under any circumstances, remove the hood from the vehicle while repainting. This is simply not required. This will save you mounting problems, aligning problems, etc. Also, if you take the hood off the car, a knowledgeable person could always tell it was taken off, thus bringing unwanted questions and doubt for potential future buyer.
You don't need to strip it to "bare metal" either. Electrolyte undercoating that is put on aluminum hood at the factory, then sealers and primers can NOT be duplicated at repair shop. Good shop can come close at a very $$$ price, but only close. Paint is only as good as preparation work under the paint, and none is better than factory.
Second, make sure they don't overspray the edges of the hood, but rather mask it, and then REMOVE/POLISH OUT masking tape edge from the edge of the hood. Feel it with your hand after the job is done. DO NOT let them overspray your fenders or other adjacent body parts with clear (they can tell you its required for proper paint matching - its not - good shops can match paint perfectly without overspraying). If your paint is metallic, make sure there are no sand marks ghosting under the paint/clear - sometimes you can see those at a certain angle if the job is not well done. Good luck.
You don't need to strip it to "bare metal" either. Electrolyte undercoating that is put on aluminum hood at the factory, then sealers and primers can NOT be duplicated at repair shop. Good shop can come close at a very $$$ price, but only close. Paint is only as good as preparation work under the paint, and none is better than factory.
Second, make sure they don't overspray the edges of the hood, but rather mask it, and then REMOVE/POLISH OUT masking tape edge from the edge of the hood. Feel it with your hand after the job is done. DO NOT let them overspray your fenders or other adjacent body parts with clear (they can tell you its required for proper paint matching - its not - good shops can match paint perfectly without overspraying). If your paint is metallic, make sure there are no sand marks ghosting under the paint/clear - sometimes you can see those at a certain angle if the job is not well done. Good luck.
05-13-2010, 05:03 PM
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05-13-2010, 05:59 PM
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DO NOT, under any circumstances, remove the hood from the vehicle while repainting. This is simply not required. This will save you mounting problems, aligning problems, etc. Also, if you take the hood off the car, a knowledgeable person could always tell it was taken off, thus bringing unwanted questions and doubt for potential future buyer.
You don't need to strip it to "bare metal" either. Electrolyte undercoating that is put on aluminum hood at the factory, then sealers and primers can NOT be duplicated at repair shop. Good shop can come close at a very $$ price, but only close. Paint is only as good as preparation work under the paint, and none is better than factory.
Second, make sure they don't overspray the edges of the hood, but rather mask it, and then REMOVE/POLISH OUT masking tape edge from the edge of the hood. Feel it with your hand after the job is done. DO NOT let them overspray your fenders or other adjacent body parts with clear (they can tell you its required for proper paint matching - its not - good shops can match paint perfectly without overspraying). If your paint is metallic, make sure there are no sand marks ghosting under the paint/clear - sometimes you can see those at a certain angle if the job is not well done. Good luck.
You don't need to strip it to "bare metal" either. Electrolyte undercoating that is put on aluminum hood at the factory, then sealers and primers can NOT be duplicated at repair shop. Good shop can come close at a very $$ price, but only close. Paint is only as good as preparation work under the paint, and none is better than factory.
Second, make sure they don't overspray the edges of the hood, but rather mask it, and then REMOVE/POLISH OUT masking tape edge from the edge of the hood. Feel it with your hand after the job is done. DO NOT let them overspray your fenders or other adjacent body parts with clear (they can tell you its required for proper paint matching - its not - good shops can match paint perfectly without overspraying). If your paint is metallic, make sure there are no sand marks ghosting under the paint/clear - sometimes you can see those at a certain angle if the job is not well done. Good luck.
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