atta_svg

I ordered three bottles of Rejex the other week after all the heads up from this forum. Tried it out on my gf?s black metallic Peugeot 307 today.
First I washed it down (with a little dishwashing liquid in there), then I dried it thoroughly. It has a lot of swirl marks, so I thought I would use a polish before I Rejex'ed it. So I used Autoglym Super Resin Polish, which is what I had available. It does not contain a lot of abrasive, so I dont think I got rid of any of the swirls - but it did a nice job covering up most of it. After I was finished the car looked really good! Nice deep shine to it. So I went on and put Rejex on it. Let it dry for about 30 minutes, then buffed off the Rejex. Result: NOT as deep a shine, and NOT as slick a surface! On top of that, for some reason half of the hood is not smooth at all. It was like this after I but on the Super Resin Polish, so I think maybe I did a bad job there (I tried to get some swirl marks out on the hood by using Autoglym Paint Renovator, and think maybe I forgot to polish it afterwards)- buts surely Rejex would rectify this? I waited 6 hours and did the hood again, - same results! Just half of it feels smooth! The other half makes a screeching sound when I pull my finger across it.

So to my question: Was my hopes set too high, or is this a bad combination? Does the paint have to feel smooth first, and then Rejex just makes it a little bit smoother? My car is professionally treated with Autoglym hard wax. I was thinking of adding a layer of Rejex to make it even easier to maintain, but now I'm starting to wonder....

Atle
ps: Car looks great! Just feel it looked even greater with just "Super Resin Polish" on it.. now I'm thinking what "Ultimate Deep Shine" could have done.

atta_svg

I guess "bad results" was a wrong choice of words. What I meant to say was "not what I expected".

atta_svg

No coments or advice.. ?

JDN

Do not know exactly what to say since I have never experienced anything like you reported. One thing RejeX will not do is smooth the paint if it has anything rough to the touch. A clay bar would do that. Another question I would have would be was the RejeX allowed to cure after finishing for 12 hours at 85F degrees without using the car? That usually requires an overnight storing in a garage out of the elements, or at least that is the way I do mine. And of course, the Rejex needs to be applied under the same conditions. I always get it off well before 30 minutes. RejeX is not to be used over corroded or oxidized surfaces and is no cure for scratches or swirls.

However, if you feel it is below your expectations and you paid heed to the above, there is a money-back, no-quesitons-asked guarantee.

530E60NL

I always use autoglym super resin polish with great result. After applying that I always use the extra gloss protection from autoglym..

Result: Amazing deep shine like the car is still wet.. Maybe rejex and autoglym don't work together to well.. The extra gloss protection does the job and makes the car slick and shiny..

Maybe next time you should only rejex the car and not use any autoglym product before???

andy545

I agree Dennis.
I only use Rejex after a good wash down. The paint is smooth for weeks after each
wash, and the shine fantastic. Combining the two may have unexpected chemical
reactions.

marty530d

I thought that Rejex should only be applied to unwaxed paint as it needs to bond to the paint. Old wax should be removed first otherwise it may prevent bonding to the paintwork.

For best results, a clay bar should be used to clean up the paintwork before applying rejex.

I have rejexed my car twice in the last 6 months and I am very happy with the results - probably not the best wax finish available but certainly long lasting and leaves the car very easy to clean.

JDN

I never did remove the wax before I applied RejeX. The first coat was a winner. The second time I put it on it was even better and resulted in a very hard finish that is still bubbling water and still slick to the touch when clean. I think the problem in the first message in the thread was caused by leaving it on too long before removal. Instructions say as soon as it begins to haze. Also, the paint may have needed the clay bar before applying the polymer. I'm sorry that atta_svg didn't get the same degree of satisfaction that you and I did.

paasan

I would definitely make sure that the Paint Renovator was removed properly before applying anything else. Try using the Paint Renovator once more on the tricky surface, and then apply Extra Gloss Protection to the car. I'm guessing it may also be better to use a machine on the hood, as it would simplify the process quite a bit.

atta_svg

The Paint Renovator was removed, but not sure I used the polish to smooth it out afterwards. and yeah, I used a machine.

By the way, since we're in the same country (hei!) .. have you any idea what a "clay bar" is, and where to get one?

Atle