BMW North America Is A Ripoff
#11
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Thats just typical of BMW, there is a few of these case around and i agree never believe a stealer and always get a second opinion or check yourself!! good work BTW
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Originally Posted by v_therussian' post='961904' date='Aug 1 2009, 11:02 AM
Blackfalcon, you are henceforth my hero!
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#13
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Eheheh black, the same story happened to me.
WHEN SMG BREAKS, DON'T REPLACE THE WHOLE GEARBOX as BMW says: in 90% of cases, there is a cheaper solution!
Since the pump is made in central Italy, I can try to find a telephone number and call.
If you want the pump and you cannot order it in the States, I can give you a fax number of a dealer in .DE who ship everywhere.
If you want a 55k kilometers used pump, I can sell you mine for some bucks.
So can the pump be unmounted without removing the gearbox, right?
Just removing the plastic cover?
You are able to see it even with the cover on, I checked it yesterday.
Your gearbox were locked in N, mine in 1. No pressure in both cases (I had a dangling pipe, you the pump broken).
No pressure (checkable with INPA, there is a sensor on the gearbox) ===> pump faulty or circuit opened or oil leaking.
WHEN SMG BREAKS, DON'T REPLACE THE WHOLE GEARBOX as BMW says: in 90% of cases, there is a cheaper solution!
Since the pump is made in central Italy, I can try to find a telephone number and call.
If you want the pump and you cannot order it in the States, I can give you a fax number of a dealer in .DE who ship everywhere.
If you want a 55k kilometers used pump, I can sell you mine for some bucks.
So can the pump be unmounted without removing the gearbox, right?
Just removing the plastic cover?
You are able to see it even with the cover on, I checked it yesterday.
Your gearbox were locked in N, mine in 1. No pressure in both cases (I had a dangling pipe, you the pump broken).
No pressure (checkable with INPA, there is a sensor on the gearbox) ===> pump faulty or circuit opened or oil leaking.
#14
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Originally Posted by javelin73' post='961950' date='Aug 1 2009, 06:04 PM
+1
,
here in Germany you also have to look for another opinion - or just call www.e60forums.com, here are the real
BMW specialists!
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here in Germany you also have to look for another opinion - or just call www.e60forums.com, here are the real
BMW specialists!
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I visited them and they highly suck: I explained how to install the M5 front bumper and to thank they banned me because I was writing in english.
#15
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Originally Posted by blackfalcon' post='961639' date='Jul 31 2009, 07:09 PM
I picked up the car to go get a second opinion from someone with a GT1. The car did act up at all after I picked it up for another 1000 miles or so.
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My Ride: 06 530i titanium gray babyy!!!! loaded up the ass
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Originally Posted by blackfalcon' post='961639' date='Jul 31 2009, 09:09 PM
got out my volt meter and started checking what voltage etc. was being sent to the pump, etc. from the main smg controll unit. I ended up figuring out that it was just a bad SMG Hydrolic pump motor.
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Just another reason why I will not own a car 15 seconds out of warranty. Awesome move. You saved yourself a very nice vacation.
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this is how bmw,merc,audi make most of there money AFTER SALES lol
iv gotta buy a new ?1000 head lamp because a ?5 piece of chrome is damaged and they wont mend it
iv gotta buy a new ?1000 head lamp because a ?5 piece of chrome is damaged and they wont mend it
#19
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My Ride: 2005 545I SMG. 2006 Nissan Titan SE. 2006 Daytona 675. YZ250F. John Deere 2520.
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To answer some of your questions. I picked up the car to get a second opinion and the car ran fine for a while and then once it started acting up again I figured to heck with it and gave it a try myself. I figured the worst I could do was take things apart and not figure out what the problem was and bring it back into BMW in parts.
To trouble shoot this problem, take off the main underbody panel. You will be able to clearling see the pump. Put a splice on the positive wire to the pump, and run a wire extension so you can sit in the drivers seat and still see your volt meter. As soon as you turn the car on you should see 12-14 volts at the pump. This is only for very short 2-3 second bursts. As you shift gears in the car you will see this periodically. It doesn't necessarily have to happen in exact timing with the shift points. Because there is a pressure accumulator, that I'm guessing has some sort of spring/hydrolic plunger that holds the pressure on the system.
If the car is stuck in gear or neutral and your not getting any voltage at any point at the pump you've got a problem that is not the pump motor. There is a 30amp fuse in the main electrical control box in the front of the car that is not listed on the fuse diagram that controls the SMG pump, as well as a relay, that I would check.
If you are getting voltage at the pump but things aren't working I would guess you could have the same problem that I had with a bad pump, or a pump that is catching for a variety of reasons, or the brushes could be wearing out, which is a known problem with the M5's from what I've read.
To take the pump off if you need to replace it, remove the neutral wire, and disconnect the positive wire harness. Remove the transmission skid plate. Remove the 3 #20 hex bolts that hold the motor it to the transmission block. Then remove the two torx bolts on the approximately 2"squre x 1" pump. I made the mistake of removing the torx and hex bolts which took the pump off and dumped fluid all over me, because it drains the reseviour. I believe if you only take off the torx bolts the motor will cleanly disconnect from the pump without draining the fluid which is $42 a lilter. In my case the fluid in the reseviour should be blue, but it was fairly gray at the bottom of the reseviour.
After replacing pump and refilling the reseviour. Use a small piece of tubing connected to a funnel in engine bay to fill reseviour or some type of pump. In order to prime my pump I used the spliced wire that had connected earlier to run the pump for 10 second burst. Then I would start the car and try to shift etc. until it was primed and started to shift correctly.
You can actually use that same wire you have spliced on to the motor and use it to drive the car if you have an electronic SMG issue. I discovered this was possible in the hunt for the fuse I mentioned above.
I may be interested in buying someones used pump, and I would really appreciate it if someone can hunt down a source for a new OEM stand alone pump with the correct mounting bracket.
To trouble shoot this problem, take off the main underbody panel. You will be able to clearling see the pump. Put a splice on the positive wire to the pump, and run a wire extension so you can sit in the drivers seat and still see your volt meter. As soon as you turn the car on you should see 12-14 volts at the pump. This is only for very short 2-3 second bursts. As you shift gears in the car you will see this periodically. It doesn't necessarily have to happen in exact timing with the shift points. Because there is a pressure accumulator, that I'm guessing has some sort of spring/hydrolic plunger that holds the pressure on the system.
If the car is stuck in gear or neutral and your not getting any voltage at any point at the pump you've got a problem that is not the pump motor. There is a 30amp fuse in the main electrical control box in the front of the car that is not listed on the fuse diagram that controls the SMG pump, as well as a relay, that I would check.
If you are getting voltage at the pump but things aren't working I would guess you could have the same problem that I had with a bad pump, or a pump that is catching for a variety of reasons, or the brushes could be wearing out, which is a known problem with the M5's from what I've read.
To take the pump off if you need to replace it, remove the neutral wire, and disconnect the positive wire harness. Remove the transmission skid plate. Remove the 3 #20 hex bolts that hold the motor it to the transmission block. Then remove the two torx bolts on the approximately 2"squre x 1" pump. I made the mistake of removing the torx and hex bolts which took the pump off and dumped fluid all over me, because it drains the reseviour. I believe if you only take off the torx bolts the motor will cleanly disconnect from the pump without draining the fluid which is $42 a lilter. In my case the fluid in the reseviour should be blue, but it was fairly gray at the bottom of the reseviour.
After replacing pump and refilling the reseviour. Use a small piece of tubing connected to a funnel in engine bay to fill reseviour or some type of pump. In order to prime my pump I used the spliced wire that had connected earlier to run the pump for 10 second burst. Then I would start the car and try to shift etc. until it was primed and started to shift correctly.
You can actually use that same wire you have spliced on to the motor and use it to drive the car if you have an electronic SMG issue. I discovered this was possible in the hunt for the fuse I mentioned above.
I may be interested in buying someones used pump, and I would really appreciate it if someone can hunt down a source for a new OEM stand alone pump with the correct mounting bracket.
#20
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Originally Posted by AlexFW' post='962045' date='Aug 1 2009, 01:46 PM
Eheheh black, the same story happened to me.
WHEN SMG BREAKS, DON'T REPLACE THE WHOLE GEARBOX as BMW says: in 90% of cases, there is a cheaper solution!
Since the pump is made in central Italy, I can try to find a telephone number and call.
If you want the pump and you cannot order it in the States, I can give you a fax number of a dealer in .DE who ship everywhere.
If you want a 55k kilometers used pump, I can sell you mine for some bucks.
So can the pump be unmounted without removing the gearbox, right?
Just removing the plastic cover?
You are able to see it even with the cover on, I checked it yesterday.
Your gearbox were locked in N, mine in 1. No pressure in both cases (I had a dangling pipe, you the pump broken).
No pressure (checkable with INPA, there is a sensor on the gearbox) ===> pump faulty or circuit opened or oil leaking.
WHEN SMG BREAKS, DON'T REPLACE THE WHOLE GEARBOX as BMW says: in 90% of cases, there is a cheaper solution!
Since the pump is made in central Italy, I can try to find a telephone number and call.
If you want the pump and you cannot order it in the States, I can give you a fax number of a dealer in .DE who ship everywhere.
If you want a 55k kilometers used pump, I can sell you mine for some bucks.
So can the pump be unmounted without removing the gearbox, right?
Just removing the plastic cover?
You are able to see it even with the cover on, I checked it yesterday.
Your gearbox were locked in N, mine in 1. No pressure in both cases (I had a dangling pipe, you the pump broken).
No pressure (checkable with INPA, there is a sensor on the gearbox) ===> pump faulty or circuit opened or oil leaking.