murdock

Aha! OK I understand now. Now I should be able to use any electrical wire for this run from szl to e-box correct? Also when I do run this wire to e-box how do I fit it into the connector? Is there a peice or part I need to purchase to fit unto the end of the wire going to e-box so it can securely plug into the x6031 connector? Thanks for your help

likhan_s

I was having difficulty to locate the exact piece of connector that I needed to connect the wire to the ebox in oem fashion. So, instead decided on soldering it to the wire.

murdock

Lol I see. So to confirm what you did. Basically you soldered the wire into the actual port 11 of connector x6031 in ebox because I was under the impression it has to be clipped it.
I'm sorry and thanks for all the help bud, I'm nervous and I just want to get this right

likhan_s

It is certainly better to be clipped, as you will be able to take it out later, however, when I had it open, I did not have the exact clips, so, I had two choice, either close everything back up and try to figure out the exact part number and order it, or just wire it up with the wire directly. I chose to do the second.

murdock

Lol Hey you were faced with a decision. You went the right route a d look who's winning now👍😉

murdock

I've ordered the m5 wheel with the wire harness to have the paddles connect to szl. Hopefully they should be in by next early wk. That'll be the final piece to this retrofit (hardware wise). From there I'm gonna confirm if my car was actually coded and flashed correctly. Allegedly it was coded and flashed. I mean I feel the stiffer steering when I push the button, if the car is in D mode with sport button pushed I can see the RPM increases immediately and "s1" shows up when I kick the Shifter to the left but for some reason I feel somethings missing. The shifting appears to be faster but when I test drove a factory SAT e60 it looks and sounds different with each shift with the button pressed. It's instantaneous and the needle goes directly to each Rev point. I dunno, I'm gonna test drive another car at a used dealership again to settle my head lol

funglenn

that is what they call throttle blip or something like that. I was never able to et that done. I have exactly what you have--never got the throttle blips to work, but I also do not understand what it is exactly. I am just happy with the extra power and transmission functionality/performance. definite great difference in upshifting and downshifting when I come to a stop.

biz77

I'm waiting on my last part for the SAT retrofit, the bezel to go around the shifter. In anticipation of the last physical part for the retrofit, I've been researching the coding and reflashing process. I'm a bit confused. If I use WinKFP to flash $2TB to the transmission, do I still need to go in and code other modules using NCSExpert or do I just need to code the paddles off since I don't have paddles on my steering wheel. IIRC when I flashed the Alpina transmission software on my E90, I only had to flash using WinKFP and did nothing else in NCSExpert.

Hyri

Hello, please can you help me with one thing, i have everything done, bu i cannot program my car via ista because i have combox retrofitted and istaP say i need to replate ULF, also get it out from VO but its the same... i need to search 2TB firmware name for my 2009 535D, i need name of file that i have to record to my gearbox, can you help me with that ? in folder its about 16 files with 2TB names.


many thanks

Pz280

Hello everyone,

This is my first post here so let me apologize if this has already been covered.

I have been going through this thread since quite a few days and have done some research on that basis.

I want to do a SAT and M5 paddle shift retrofit. I have an e60 LCI 530i (07/08 - production).

Based on that I have consolidated the part numbers for a RHD SAT retrofit.

1) 61319208272 - RHD SAT Lever
2) 51166985887 - Console Cover
3) 61319142869 - Sport Button
4) 61319212220 - ECU

And for the paddle shift steering I've had a look at the kit offered from Motive Mods by Roger.

Coming to my problem -
Reading from this thread the hardware bit of the SAT is pretty straightforward, but to get 100% functionality I need to get it coded from the dealer and have him change my VO to the required values and then do the coding accordingly.
However, the kit that motive mods is supplying doesn't require any coding and is basically a plug and play unit.

Now if I intend to do both of them together, how would this work out ? Would I still need to get the car coded to accommodate the SAT ?
But since the paddle shift doesnt require any coding, would just installing it bypass the need for any coding and give me 100% functionality ?

I hope this makes any sense, because reading it back seems confusing to me !!


Hope I can get some help.
Thanks


p.s. - Great forum and great thread !