add subwoofer on E60 models without amp in trunk
02-22-2012, 12:28 PM
#1
Members
Thread Starter
Ton's of information about adding a sub on your E60 5Series, but almost all of it expects having an amp in the left site of the trunk.
Big problem ! what to do when digging everything out of the trunk without finding anything looking like an amp?
Well, change your mind to plan-B: N.A.M. (Nope-Amp-Mode)
It seems specially the European models are driving around without the seperate amp. (of course speakers are powered, but amp power is coming from Head Unit)
So speaker setting consists of 2 mid's in front doors, 2 mid's in the trunk cover, and 2 (mini)sub's under the front seats.
Because the magnets off the underseat subs can't even lift a paperclip, base being produced make you definitely cry.
As line level outputs are missing, the only way is grab (tap) the speakerlevel signals, some folks say speaker signal to the mid's is filtered high pass, so unusable for bass signal's, you need to tap the speakerlevel sub-signal somewhere between Head Unit and sub-speaker-unit.
Well, I'd like to share the following instructions on how to easily (but very well functioning)tap the signal from under the front seats.
In My 545i the battery is in the trunk, and there is also a switched lighter signal in the trunk. Together with to sub-speakerlevel wires from under the left and right seat you have a complete recipe for hooking up a real subwoofer. Of course you can make your own choice of choosing an active one, or buying a seperate amp and passive subwoofer. Be aware of buying an speakerlevel suitable amp, which saves you buying a seperate LOC (Line Output Converter which converts speakerlevel to line-level(cinch))
Coming to the point:
1) start removing 4 plastic seat-rail covers, no tools necessary, be gentle is the only advise.
2) remove 2 seat covers on out- and frontside (no tools again)
3) unscrew 4 torx's, the're tightened up strong, so use a perfect fitting torx with a large lever
4) leave cable's attached ! (or dealer visit may be necessary because of resetting airbag circuit)
5) gently pull seat backwards against back seat, turn back totally frontwards (which actually lifts the seat, creating work space)
6) remove subwoofer cover, 4 screws
7) locate subwoofer signal cable, pull plug out of subwoofer casing
8) locate the signal cable in the harnass, and pull it back, cut it and make you have enough length for easy solder/wel both ends together with
one side of the new cable which is going to the sub in the trunk
Make your own decission on which methode to use connecting those 3 wires together.
9) now it's just lead the wire to the trunk, it can be nicely put under the covers, so you don't see the cable in your car.
This procedure can be followed for the right and left subwoofer, to tap 2-channel stereo speakerlevel sub-signal
The covers and seat can ben installed in reverse sequence.
Looking back it's not very difficult, but pictures often makes things clear, and on the E60, everything is covered, so it's always difficult where/how to start.
I hope people can use this instruction, so the E60 is not only driving me crazy, but also booming me crazy.
Finally when everything is connected, power everything on.
Treble can be put to the max, then listen your loudest music, volume at max, turn down bass in the iDrive menu until factory underseat subwoofers have no hearable disortion, then finetune your subwoofer until you feel the music is in balance.
When underseat subwoofers are not loaded with heavy bass, the poor factory speakers together with your new subwoofer sounds unexpectedly nice.
Have fun.
Big problem ! what to do when digging everything out of the trunk without finding anything looking like an amp?
Well, change your mind to plan-B: N.A.M. (Nope-Amp-Mode)
It seems specially the European models are driving around without the seperate amp. (of course speakers are powered, but amp power is coming from Head Unit)
So speaker setting consists of 2 mid's in front doors, 2 mid's in the trunk cover, and 2 (mini)sub's under the front seats.
Because the magnets off the underseat subs can't even lift a paperclip, base being produced make you definitely cry.
As line level outputs are missing, the only way is grab (tap) the speakerlevel signals, some folks say speaker signal to the mid's is filtered high pass, so unusable for bass signal's, you need to tap the speakerlevel sub-signal somewhere between Head Unit and sub-speaker-unit.
Well, I'd like to share the following instructions on how to easily (but very well functioning)tap the signal from under the front seats.
In My 545i the battery is in the trunk, and there is also a switched lighter signal in the trunk. Together with to sub-speakerlevel wires from under the left and right seat you have a complete recipe for hooking up a real subwoofer. Of course you can make your own choice of choosing an active one, or buying a seperate amp and passive subwoofer. Be aware of buying an speakerlevel suitable amp, which saves you buying a seperate LOC (Line Output Converter which converts speakerlevel to line-level(cinch))
Coming to the point:
1) start removing 4 plastic seat-rail covers, no tools necessary, be gentle is the only advise.
2) remove 2 seat covers on out- and frontside (no tools again)
3) unscrew 4 torx's, the're tightened up strong, so use a perfect fitting torx with a large lever
4) leave cable's attached ! (or dealer visit may be necessary because of resetting airbag circuit)
5) gently pull seat backwards against back seat, turn back totally frontwards (which actually lifts the seat, creating work space)
6) remove subwoofer cover, 4 screws
7) locate subwoofer signal cable, pull plug out of subwoofer casing
8) locate the signal cable in the harnass, and pull it back, cut it and make you have enough length for easy solder/wel both ends together with
one side of the new cable which is going to the sub in the trunk
Make your own decission on which methode to use connecting those 3 wires together.
9) now it's just lead the wire to the trunk, it can be nicely put under the covers, so you don't see the cable in your car.
This procedure can be followed for the right and left subwoofer, to tap 2-channel stereo speakerlevel sub-signal
The covers and seat can ben installed in reverse sequence.
Looking back it's not very difficult, but pictures often makes things clear, and on the E60, everything is covered, so it's always difficult where/how to start.
I hope people can use this instruction, so the E60 is not only driving me crazy, but also booming me crazy.
Finally when everything is connected, power everything on.
Treble can be put to the max, then listen your loudest music, volume at max, turn down bass in the iDrive menu until factory underseat subwoofers have no hearable disortion, then finetune your subwoofer until you feel the music is in balance.
When underseat subwoofers are not loaded with heavy bass, the poor factory speakers together with your new subwoofer sounds unexpectedly nice.
Have fun.
The following users liked this post:
Blackie_No1 (03-31-2024)
02-29-2012, 08:05 PM
#2
Senior Members
And you're absolutely positive there is no amp in the boot on the drivers side beneath the taillamp or up against the wheel-well ? Ok, it's EU model but no amp? I took line-levels from my amp in the boot and i could swear a couple bros from the EU have done the same. But definitely great write up! 
04-18-2012, 01:50 PM
#3
New Members
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Norway
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Which setup are you using, and are you still satisfied?
I've got an 525DA LCI with what I assume to be base/stereo audio. There's 2 mids and 2 tweeters in each front door(I've seen in several posts that the tweeter slots usually are empty, but I'm pretty sure they're emitting sound), 2mids in the trunk shelf (with an empty slot for a tweeter in each) and 2 subs under the seats.
What I'm curious about is this;
Let's say I want to replace the subs under the seats. Can I simply cut the wires for the OEM subs and route the signal back into the trunk and power the new subs from a aftermarket amplifier?
Will this free up extra juice for the headunit so that it might actually make sense to replace the speakers in the door and trunk shelf without amping these from something else?
I've got an 525DA LCI with what I assume to be base/stereo audio. There's 2 mids and 2 tweeters in each front door(I've seen in several posts that the tweeter slots usually are empty, but I'm pretty sure they're emitting sound), 2mids in the trunk shelf (with an empty slot for a tweeter in each) and 2 subs under the seats.
What I'm curious about is this;
Let's say I want to replace the subs under the seats. Can I simply cut the wires for the OEM subs and route the signal back into the trunk and power the new subs from a aftermarket amplifier?
Will this free up extra juice for the headunit so that it might actually make sense to replace the speakers in the door and trunk shelf without amping these from something else?
04-25-2012, 10:47 PM
#4
Members
Thread Starter
Hello AchtungE60, sorry for my late reply on your post, but I think I'm positive about it, when there is an amp in the trunk, it is behind the left panel, different versions have it on bottom, side or top, but always in that compartment, I think because of the Ventilation of that compartment, and some other people are also talking about a very simple Audio system which only is amped from within the iDrive module itself
Hello mainstream, still very satisfied, last little mod (also mentioned by other people) is you definitely have to open the ski-panel in the back seet, because the BMW E60 back seat stops a lot of audio, even low freq Bass signals.
So with back panel in back seat open it's really nice.
Btw i'm pretty sure I've even no tweeters in the front doors, just mid/high units in each door + 2 mini-sub = 6 speakerunits totally.
I think what you say is a perfect (even better) way of modding the sub part of the system.
I'll try to explane: If poor sub's stay connected, and only tapped (as in my situation) I think to hear that when the still attached little subunit under the seat is coming to a disortion level, it also causes some disortion in the signal in the speaker cable, which after that is being amped by my subwoofer, so the disortion is also amped, which at high levels disorts the sub signal earlier as the mini-subs were not connected at all. Therefore I think you option of disconnecting the default-subs is even a better way.
Succes ! When you're in the Neterlands be free to visit my audio system
Hello mainstream, still very satisfied, last little mod (also mentioned by other people) is you definitely have to open the ski-panel in the back seet, because the BMW E60 back seat stops a lot of audio, even low freq Bass signals.
So with back panel in back seat open it's really nice.
Btw i'm pretty sure I've even no tweeters in the front doors, just mid/high units in each door + 2 mini-sub = 6 speakerunits totally.
I think what you say is a perfect (even better) way of modding the sub part of the system.
I'll try to explane: If poor sub's stay connected, and only tapped (as in my situation) I think to hear that when the still attached little subunit under the seat is coming to a disortion level, it also causes some disortion in the signal in the speaker cable, which after that is being amped by my subwoofer, so the disortion is also amped, which at high levels disorts the sub signal earlier as the mini-subs were not connected at all. Therefore I think you option of disconnecting the default-subs is even a better way.
Succes ! When you're in the Neterlands be free to visit my audio system
05-10-2012, 06:38 AM
#7
Senior Members
Hello AchtungE60, sorry for my late reply on your post, but I think I'm positive about it, when there is an amp in the trunk, it is behind the left panel, different versions have it on bottom, side or top, but always in that compartment, I think because of the Ventilation of that compartment, and some other people are also talking about a very simple Audio system which only is amped from within the iDrive module itself
Hello mainstream, still very satisfied, last little mod (also mentioned by other people) is you definitely have to open the ski-panel in the back seet, because the BMW E60 back seat stops a lot of audio, even low freq Bass signals.
So with back panel in back seat open it's really nice.
Btw i'm pretty sure I've even no tweeters in the front doors, just mid/high units in each door + 2 mini-sub = 6 speakerunits totally.
I think what you say is a perfect (even better) way of modding the sub part of the system.
I'll try to explane: If poor sub's stay connected, and only tapped (as in my situation) I think to hear that when the still attached little subunit under the seat is coming to a disortion level, it also causes some disortion in the signal in the speaker cable, which after that is being amped by my subwoofer, so the disortion is also amped, which at high levels disorts the sub signal earlier as the mini-subs were not connected at all. Therefore I think you option of disconnecting the default-subs is even a better way.
Succes ! When you're in the Neterlands be free to visit my audio system
Hello mainstream, still very satisfied, last little mod (also mentioned by other people) is you definitely have to open the ski-panel in the back seet, because the BMW E60 back seat stops a lot of audio, even low freq Bass signals.
So with back panel in back seat open it's really nice.
Btw i'm pretty sure I've even no tweeters in the front doors, just mid/high units in each door + 2 mini-sub = 6 speakerunits totally.
I think what you say is a perfect (even better) way of modding the sub part of the system.
I'll try to explane: If poor sub's stay connected, and only tapped (as in my situation) I think to hear that when the still attached little subunit under the seat is coming to a disortion level, it also causes some disortion in the signal in the speaker cable, which after that is being amped by my subwoofer, so the disortion is also amped, which at high levels disorts the sub signal earlier as the mini-subs were not connected at all. Therefore I think you option of disconnecting the default-subs is even a better way.
Succes ! When you're in the Neterlands be free to visit my audio system
) and recently I have replaced the front door/rear shelf midranges with Logic 7 ones and also added Logic 7 tweeters (which sound amazing) but now the bass is inaudible So my plan is to replace the underseat subs with 2 x Earthquakes SWS-8 and add a 2 channel amp to power them. If I can take the input from the underseat subs its perfect, meaning I don't need to touch the head unit).
Do you think a setup like that will work along with an amp like Alpine MRP-F300?
05-10-2012, 06:59 AM
#8
Members
Thread Starter
About the Alpina's, here in the Netherlands they're sold this color, with top tips blanc, very nice
But very very very unfortunately I have to see my wife thought it necessary to look or both right wheels are heavy pavement-proof.
And...yes they are, but it's not positive for the looks, in other words, I'm drying my tears
05-10-2012, 07:06 AM
#9
Members
Thread Starter
Nice thread E60rules, I was looking for something just like this since I have standard EU audio (6 speakers only ) and recently I have replaced the front door/rear shelf midranges with Logic 7 ones and also added Logic 7 tweeters (which sound amazing) but now the bass is inaudible
So my plan is to replace the underseat subs with 2 x Earthquakes SWS-8 and add a 2 channel amp to power them. If I can take the input from the underseat subs its perfect, meaning I don't need to touch the head unit).
Do you think a setup like that will work along with an amp like Alpine MRP-F300?
) and recently I have replaced the front door/rear shelf midranges with Logic 7 ones and also added Logic 7 tweeters (which sound amazing) but now the bass is inaudible So my plan is to replace the underseat subs with 2 x Earthquakes SWS-8 and add a 2 channel amp to power them. If I can take the input from the underseat subs its perfect, meaning I don't need to touch the head unit).
Do you think a setup like that will work along with an amp like Alpine MRP-F300?
When I look at your link I can't figure out or this is a subwoofer amplifier of a usual amp.
I'm afraid when using a normal amp without lowpass filter your getting to much midbass to the seperate sub, which make you E60 booming
But maybe I don't know enough about this amp
You definitely enjoy your car-music more after your suggested mod.
Please post pictures when ready, always nice
05-10-2012, 09:11 AM
#10
Senior Members
Thanks for the reply. Few more questions:
1. When you take the cable(s) from the underseat subs as input to the amp, is that low or high level?
2. Do you need to tap into both left/right sub cables or just one is enough?
3. I have only picked that amp since it can do 2x150w RMS at 4 ohm which is what an earthquake sub will take.
4. Would it be better to just go 2 ohm version of the earthquake subs and a Punch P300-2 amp instead, but how can I get RCA inputs?
5. Do you have an amp you can suggest?
1. When you take the cable(s) from the underseat subs as input to the amp, is that low or high level?
2. Do you need to tap into both left/right sub cables or just one is enough?
3. I have only picked that amp since it can do 2x150w RMS at 4 ohm which is what an earthquake sub will take.
4. Would it be better to just go 2 ohm version of the earthquake subs and a Punch P300-2 amp instead, but how can I get RCA inputs?
5. Do you have an amp you can suggest?