Trunk Will Not Latch - Wiring Issue
#1
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My Ride: 2007 BMW 525i
Trunk Will Not Latch - Wiring Issue
Hi there - new to the forums.
I am having some issues with my trunk not latching.
I have found the root cause of the issue - I have 1 completely broken wire and a number of frayed wires in the trunk at the hinge point where the wires enter the lid of the trunk.
What I want to do is actually cut the wires, splice in new wire to give some added slack and then crimp and heat shrink the cuts as necessary.
My questions are as follows:
Can anyone confirm the gauge and voltage of the wire needed? It looks to me like it is AWG 18 or maybe AWG 20. Voltage I have no clue on.
Thanks for any help!
I am having some issues with my trunk not latching.
I have found the root cause of the issue - I have 1 completely broken wire and a number of frayed wires in the trunk at the hinge point where the wires enter the lid of the trunk.
What I want to do is actually cut the wires, splice in new wire to give some added slack and then crimp and heat shrink the cuts as necessary.
My questions are as follows:
Can anyone confirm the gauge and voltage of the wire needed? It looks to me like it is AWG 18 or maybe AWG 20. Voltage I have no clue on.
Thanks for any help!
#2
New Members
If you're not sure about the gauge, use a wire stripper with notches for the various sizes to measure what you have. Making a short patch, even with smaller wire, wouldn't be a problem either (think how small the wire is inside a fuse). If you can get it, glue-lined heatshrink (thin wall) will help keep the crimped joint stable when flexing. Tape the bundle when finished, but not too tight.
You're on the right track for splice and repair using crimps and heatshrink. Don't solder splice a wire that has to bend as it will put a stress point where the solder stops wicking up the strands and will accelerate failure. Also, an unsupported crimp will suffer fracture where the strands are compressed unless supported with a secondary method. Barrel butt splices need to be crimped both at the metal ferrule and at the insulated end for this reason.
You're on the right track for splice and repair using crimps and heatshrink. Don't solder splice a wire that has to bend as it will put a stress point where the solder stops wicking up the strands and will accelerate failure. Also, an unsupported crimp will suffer fracture where the strands are compressed unless supported with a secondary method. Barrel butt splices need to be crimped both at the metal ferrule and at the insulated end for this reason.
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Jakarta
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My Ride: E60 n52b30
Hi there - new to the forums.
I am having some issues with my trunk not latching.
I have found the root cause of the issue - I have 1 completely broken wire and a number of frayed wires in the trunk at the hinge point where the wires enter the lid of the trunk.
What I want to do is actually cut the wires, splice in new wire to give some added slack and then crimp and heat shrink the cuts as necessary.
My questions are as follows:
Can anyone confirm the gauge and voltage of the wire needed? It looks to me like it is AWG 18 or maybe AWG 20. Voltage I have no clue on.
Thanks for any help!
I am having some issues with my trunk not latching.
I have found the root cause of the issue - I have 1 completely broken wire and a number of frayed wires in the trunk at the hinge point where the wires enter the lid of the trunk.
What I want to do is actually cut the wires, splice in new wire to give some added slack and then crimp and heat shrink the cuts as necessary.
My questions are as follows:
Can anyone confirm the gauge and voltage of the wire needed? It looks to me like it is AWG 18 or maybe AWG 20. Voltage I have no clue on.
Thanks for any help!
#4
New Members
I dont remember its awg size. No specific voltage measure for cable. Its just need 10-15cm extra connection. So i have no worries about awg also. I just check if my cable stock looks same copper and outer diameter. I solder it to connecting and use 3mm sleeve. It works
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