OMG is it finished?
03-03-2019, 11:44 PM
#1
New Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Japan
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
My Ride: E60 2006 sedan auto
OMG is it finished?
My e60 was leaking a little fluid from the rear of the thermostat housing so yesterday I fitted a new housing, gasket and thermostat and a new water pump while I had it pulled apart.
I drove to work this morning and everything seemed okay but I went to check the fluid level and take off the radiator cap and the fluid was under a lot of pressure so I just left it alone
After finishing work I went to remove the radiator cap and it broke in half
So I removed the cap to drive home as I was in the middle of no where
The dash temperature gauge said it wasn't over heating but suddenly the temperature warning light came on
I pulled over to check and the fluid was low in the over flow tank
When I filled it up with the engine running the water level rose and fell and rose and fell
When it stopped I drove home with the same temperature warning appearing but the dash showing normal
I arrived home with the engine running beautifully
I let it cool and no bubbles or pressure in the tank
I have three ideas
1- I have a blown head gasket ( no water in the oil)
2- the thermostat even though new is faulty and opening and closing incorrectly
This would explain the temperature on the dash as the sensor is behind the thermostat so it wasn't getting hot while the engine side was boiling
3- the cap wasn't allowing correct pressure so the boiling point was lowered
I've ordered a new cap that will arrive tomorrow
I'll fit it and see what happens
If it's the head gasket it maybe time to say good bye to the lady and get a Porsche
I drove to work this morning and everything seemed okay but I went to check the fluid level and take off the radiator cap and the fluid was under a lot of pressure so I just left it alone
After finishing work I went to remove the radiator cap and it broke in half
So I removed the cap to drive home as I was in the middle of no where
The dash temperature gauge said it wasn't over heating but suddenly the temperature warning light came on
I pulled over to check and the fluid was low in the over flow tank
When I filled it up with the engine running the water level rose and fell and rose and fell
When it stopped I drove home with the same temperature warning appearing but the dash showing normal
I arrived home with the engine running beautifully
I let it cool and no bubbles or pressure in the tank
I have three ideas
1- I have a blown head gasket ( no water in the oil)
2- the thermostat even though new is faulty and opening and closing incorrectly
This would explain the temperature on the dash as the sensor is behind the thermostat so it wasn't getting hot while the engine side was boiling
3- the cap wasn't allowing correct pressure so the boiling point was lowered
I've ordered a new cap that will arrive tomorrow
I'll fit it and see what happens
If it's the head gasket it maybe time to say good bye to the lady and get a Porsche
03-04-2019, 07:15 AM
#3
New Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Japan
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
My Ride: E60 2006 sedan auto
It's an 5' E60 BMW 525i. NA52 ( European)
In japan
It doesn't have a bleeder valve
It only has a top radiator self bleeder hose
I have bleed the system this way many times and never had this trouble
In the morning I will remove the thermostat and test it at the same time with the old thermostat to compare
On a separate note but maybe a factor
The drivers side climate control switch will not switch on and off today but the passenger side works perfect
So not sure if it is connected or not
But I can't sleep trying to understand what has suddenly happened
In japan
It doesn't have a bleeder valve
It only has a top radiator self bleeder hose
I have bleed the system this way many times and never had this trouble
In the morning I will remove the thermostat and test it at the same time with the old thermostat to compare
On a separate note but maybe a factor
The drivers side climate control switch will not switch on and off today but the passenger side works perfect
So not sure if it is connected or not
But I can't sleep trying to understand what has suddenly happened
03-04-2019, 10:17 PM
#4
New Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Japan
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
My Ride: E60 2006 sedan auto
Update!
This morning I removed the new thermostat and tested it in a pot of boiling water and it barely opened compared to the old one I tested at the same time
I put the old one back in with a new gasket and it appears to be working okay but still no heater control light on or hot air coming through the vents
I fitted a new radiator cap and so now I'll test it tomorrow and see what happens
This morning I removed the new thermostat and tested it in a pot of boiling water and it barely opened compared to the old one I tested at the same time
I put the old one back in with a new gasket and it appears to be working okay but still no heater control light on or hot air coming through the vents
I fitted a new radiator cap and so now I'll test it tomorrow and see what happens
03-05-2019, 05:31 AM
#5
Members
Senior Members
Try disconnecting the heater control valve power plug. The normal position of the valve is open with no power applied and is regulated by the IHKA module as required. Pull codes as there are several for the heater valve and the IHKA in general.
There is a specific bleed procedure for the n52 and n54 engines. With a cold engine, remove expansion tank cap, turn heat to maximum and blower to lowest speed. Turn ignition on without starting engine, press accelerater to floor for 10 seconds and you should hear the electric cooling pump start. The pump will run approximately 10 minutes, with fluid circulation visible in the expansion tank.
There is a specific bleed procedure for the n52 and n54 engines. With a cold engine, remove expansion tank cap, turn heat to maximum and blower to lowest speed. Turn ignition on without starting engine, press accelerater to floor for 10 seconds and you should hear the electric cooling pump start. The pump will run approximately 10 minutes, with fluid circulation visible in the expansion tank.
Last edited by jtbgonesailing; 03-05-2019 at 07:49 AM.
03-05-2019, 03:02 PM
#6
New Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Japan
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
My Ride: E60 2006 sedan auto
Hi and thanks for your post reply
My E60 is a 2004 and has a manual water pump and not the electric pumps as found in the later E60's so the bleeding procedure is different
Today the car is running okay but still no heater so I'm interested in your advice about disconnecting the plug
I have done no research yet about that so I am wondering if you can tell me where the plugs are to help me save some time
I may start another post just in the heater issue
Thanks again and look forward to hearing from you
My E60 is a 2004 and has a manual water pump and not the electric pumps as found in the later E60's so the bleeding procedure is different
Today the car is running okay but still no heater so I'm interested in your advice about disconnecting the plug
I have done no research yet about that so I am wondering if you can tell me where the plugs are to help me save some time
I may start another post just in the heater issue
Thanks again and look forward to hearing from you
03-05-2019, 06:39 PM
#7
Members
Senior Members
Sorry about the n52-54 info, I should know better as mine is 05 530i m54. The heater control valve is at the base of the left strut tower, outboard of throttle housing assembly, down low. Best way in is to remove air cleaner box and work your way back, at least on left hand drive. The electric connector is on topside of valve with the typical release clip on the connector. The IHKA sends a pulsed signal to the left and right solenoids to control the flow of coolant out of the heater core. Valve is normally open with no power present.
ACU is a hydrocarbon sniffer that shuts off fresh air intake when exhaust fumes/diesel fumes detected in the outside air. ACU is mounted on top of radiator by radiator cooling fan electrical connector, right front on you rhd.
ACU is a hydrocarbon sniffer that shuts off fresh air intake when exhaust fumes/diesel fumes detected in the outside air. ACU is mounted on top of radiator by radiator cooling fan electrical connector, right front on you rhd.
Last edited by jtbgonesailing; 03-05-2019 at 07:21 PM.
03-06-2019, 12:52 AM
#8
New Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Japan
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
My Ride: E60 2006 sedan auto
Hi and thanks for your mail
I removed the plug from the solenoids but still no heat inside the car
I tried manually with a negative and positive wire to test the solenoids but neither clicked so I have ordered a new one
I cleared the codes for the AUC but it keeps returning so I will need to order one of them also
I drove the car one hour either way to work today with no over heating or loss of fluid which is great
I will be happy when I get this heater sorted as it's freezing in my car at 5:00 in the morning
Thanks for your input
Please send a message if you have any ideas what else it could be as I have no fault codes besides the AUC and that doesn't seem to effect the heating as much as I have been able to find out
I removed the plug from the solenoids but still no heat inside the car
I tried manually with a negative and positive wire to test the solenoids but neither clicked so I have ordered a new one
I cleared the codes for the AUC but it keeps returning so I will need to order one of them also
I drove the car one hour either way to work today with no over heating or loss of fluid which is great
I will be happy when I get this heater sorted as it's freezing in my car at 5:00 in the morning
Thanks for your input
Please send a message if you have any ideas what else it could be as I have no fault codes besides the AUC and that doesn't seem to effect the heating as much as I have been able to find out
03-06-2019, 07:23 AM
#9
Members
Senior Members
The AUC has nothing to do with your lack of heat. It is strictly a hydrocarbon sniffer that closes the fresh air flaps and puts the IHKA into recirculate if hydrocarbons are detected in the outside air.
The heater control valve is controlled with a pulsed low voltage, could be AC current, from the IHKA module. I don't know if the 2 solenoids in the valve assembly will react to 12v dc. You should have an error code if left, right or both heat control solenoids were not functioning. Doesn't mean there isn't trash hanging the valves in the closed position or the heater core, both loops, being clogged. Absent any IHKA error codes pointing at valve, I would pull the valve and check for restriction. Then remove the supply line to the heater core and reverse flush each of the 2 circuits, from the control valve end, to confirm flow through each circuit of the heater core.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=64_1336
You should be able to discount hoses 1 & 2 from one another to aid in the flushing of the heater core.
The heater control valve is controlled with a pulsed low voltage, could be AC current, from the IHKA module. I don't know if the 2 solenoids in the valve assembly will react to 12v dc. You should have an error code if left, right or both heat control solenoids were not functioning. Doesn't mean there isn't trash hanging the valves in the closed position or the heater core, both loops, being clogged. Absent any IHKA error codes pointing at valve, I would pull the valve and check for restriction. Then remove the supply line to the heater core and reverse flush each of the 2 circuits, from the control valve end, to confirm flow through each circuit of the heater core.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=64_1336
You should be able to discount hoses 1 & 2 from one another to aid in the flushing of the heater core.
Last edited by jtbgonesailing; 03-06-2019 at 07:38 AM.