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No heat since bypassing ac on 2006 525xi

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Old 12-13-2018, 06:01 AM
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Default No heat since bypassing ac on 2006 525xi

I read somewhere that bypassing the ac causes a signal to the heater valve from climate control resulting in no heat. If this is true, aside from fixing the ac properly, is there a way to get the heater valve to respond as it would under normal circumstances? I never knew how much I would appreciate heated seats and steering wheel! Thanks for any help.
Old 12-13-2018, 07:50 PM
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Not sure what you mean by "bypassing the AC". Why would you want to bypass the AC? Just turn it off with the button.
Old 12-14-2018, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by FormerE30Owner
Not sure what you mean by "bypassing the AC". Why would you want to bypass the AC? Just turn it off with the button.
"bypassed the ac"
Means I got a shorter belt because the condenser bearing was bad. I plan to replace it before Spring.
"just turn it off with the button"
If I were only that smart!

Last edited by Aboom; 12-14-2018 at 08:14 AM. Reason: Adding detail
Old 12-14-2018, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Aboom
"bypassed the ac"
Means I got a shorter belt because the condenser bearing was bad. I plan to replace it before Spring.
"just turn it off with the button"
If I were only that smart!
You did the proper thing using a shorter belt. The e60's came with a variable displacement compressor, for the A/C, that runs whenever the engine is running. No magnetic clutch fitted. I've seen postings by others that have bypassed the compressor, for bad compressor issues. But you are the first to have no heat issue after bypassing the compressor.
Old 12-14-2018, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jtbgonesailing


You did the proper thing using a shorter belt. The e60's came with a variable displacement compressor, for the A/C, that runs whenever the engine is running. No magnetic clutch fitted. I've seen postings by others that have bypassed the compressor, for bad compressor issues. But you are the first to have no heat issue after bypassing the compressor.
I know about the variable displacement compressor, but what happens when the AC button is pressed to Off? Surely the compressor doesn't run then. Otherwise what is the on off button for. I rarely use the AC during winter, just once in a while to keep the seals wet. Why wear out a compressor for nothing? It is strange, however, to have heating issues after "bypassing - disconnecting" the compressor.
Old 12-15-2018, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by FormerE30Owner
I know about the variable displacement compressor, but what happens when the AC button is pressed to Off? Surely the compressor doesn't run then. Otherwise what is the on off button for. I rarely use the AC during winter, just once in a while to keep the seals wet. Why wear out a compressor for nothing? It is strange, however, to have heating issues after "bypassing - disconnecting" the compressor.
Here's a PDF on the e60 climate control system.
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...8&d=1526135505

For the OP, The heater control valve is a normally open valve that is controlled by a pulsed signal. You can check if the valve is not sticking shut by unplugging the electrical connection on top of the valve. With the Plug disconnected, you should have full heat on both sides of the cabin.
Old 12-15-2018, 09:05 PM
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That PDF doesn't explain much, but does indicate the on/off button and does not say what it turns on/off in the AC system.
Old 12-15-2018, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by FormerE30Owner
I know about the variable displacement compressor, but what happens when the AC button is pressed to Off? Surely the compressor doesn't run then. Otherwise what is the on off button for. I rarely use the AC during winter, just once in a while to keep the seals wet. Why wear out a compressor for nothing? It is strange, however, to have heating issues after "bypassing - disconnecting" the compressor.
Now that I think about it, it is possible the heat was on it's way out and perhaps by coincidence around the same time as the ac bearing. What made me think i caused the heat to go out when bypassing the ac in the first place was a thread saying by doing so a signal was sent from 1 of two "relays" to the heater valve to close. These two were located behind the radio, but only one of them was responsible according to the person responding to the other thread. I looked and, of course, i cannot locate the thread now. So I may as well continue on with what I know and/or can learn from you guys and searching previous inquiries.

Moving onward, I suppose I will check the hoses going in and out of the core and possibly take the hose to each of those outlets as well as other access points of the cooling system for a good flush. I have performed this on a Ford Taurus with success. I cannot imagine I could ever see that amount of crud come out of a cooling system again.

The core is not leaking as far as I can tell and the blower blows. I fixed a small hose leak at top of radiator and I have went through the controls. The I drive settings all appear to be set correctly. If the problem is not the core, I guess next up is i need to figure out how to test the water pump and auxillary pump. Lastly, could it be so simple as to be a fuse? I oftentimes am guilty of looking past the culprit trying to make things more complicated than they are.

Any other recommendations?
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