Pegasusxi

Calling for any one who has dropped the sub-frame on an x-drive BMW. Looking to replace the oil pan gasket, along with a turbo cooler line.

First time dropping a sub-frame, I plan on doing it on jack-stands. I am aware of the challenges brought forward by the awd.
My plan is to drop it enough to get the down pipes. I want to avoid detaching steering and axle, does anyone think it is possible to get enough slack leaving them running through the center of subframe?

I removed what seemed to be a torx bolt from the top of the driver side mount, however the passenger side engine mount was a nut. Can someone confirm this?
I have the engine support ready to go.

Looking for assistance/tips regarding anything at risk of getting snagged when dropping the sub-frame.

Sirius815

I would drop the whole subframe and do any other potential maintenance items while it is out. When you undo the steering knuckle from the rack, ensure you do not turn the wheel as you CAN break the slipring in the steering column. Be aware of the transmission cooler lines that are bolted to the subframe if you have an automatic. You'll have to remove the axles out from the hubs, so get new axle nuts. If you can't use a punch to undo the dents on the axle nuts, use a dremel or something similar to undo the lock as you WILL screw up the threads on the axles if you just blast it off with an impact. Also, of course e sure to support the engine from the top, which can be a real bear in positioning the brace properly. I had my wife help me. Where are you located in NC?

Pegasusxi

Thank you for your reply.

My idea with the axle was a little obscure. I am going to try to drop it tomorrow and will update accordingly.
I have some oil seepage at my differential, so I figured disconnect the tie rods and take the axle off the differential and hang them out of the way with the rest of the suspension. Does this seem plausible?
Yeah the engine support likes to lean forward, and I have my front jacked only. I have something dripping near my transmission so I might end up leveling it out anyways.
Agreed, I want to do the oil pan, some oil is leaking, cant seem to find it out where. Seems above the oil pan gasket, but I just replaced the OFHG/Oil cooler gasket, and valve cover gasket.

Sirius815

You can leave the axles on the knuckles if you pull the full knuckle from the car. The passenger side axle goes the full length to the driver's side.

While we had the oil pan out, we resealed the flat surfaces that are bolted to the pan with some Ultra Grey - hasn't leaked any more. There could be residual oil from the OFHG leaking or it is still leaking. With the airbox off, you should be able to see if oil is working its way down the block.

Pegasusxi

I did see that the axle wasnt going to be a problem for dropping the subframe, however, it seems it will have to come off as I now want to reach the oil pan while I'm down there.
This looks like it requires the differential to come off too, or is there a work around?

I wish I knew about the oil leak before, as I have removed the suspension and mount bolt/nut.

The vehicle does seem to have a leaking transmission as well..

Sirius815

Yes diff has to come off to get to the rest of the oil pan bolts along with the power steering pump (lines can stay connected) (I believe it is).

Pegasusxi

Yes I got to this point. I was able to seat the etorx and break the bolts above the differential behind the cramped ATF cooler lines. I got inspiration from here:

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1451912

The P/S pump indeed needs to be unbolted at 4 E12's to release from the oil pan.
Transmission -> oil pan bolts need to be removed to release on the rear side.

Thanks for the heads-up Sirius815

kd7iwp

So were you able to replace the pan gasket without removing the differential? I'm doing my turbos at the moment and so I already have the passenger axle shaft out since I need that out of the way for the turbos. Will be doing the oil pan gasket as well and if I can save myself from having to remove passenger side axle shaft and differential that would be great. Sounds like the guy you linked to on e90post was able to do his gasket without removing the diff.

Sorry, upon re-reading I see that of course the diff has to come off as there is no other way to get to all the oil pan bolts. Thanks.

inline6xi

hey dude, im in the process of doing mine. i can post some pics of the process once i finish. I feel for ya, because there is not much info about doing this on an e60 awd. to answer your question im pretty sure you have to pull the diff. its not much extra work, the bulk of the labor is getting the subframe out and actually gettting to the pan. once youre there its worth it to pull diff

side note- how are your hubs? mine are not doing great. i see some questionable part cross compatibility with the x3 but i cant find any info. like overlapping part number on front wheel bearings. im wondering because im replacing wheel bearings

kd7iwp

Hey, I actually did the whole job last month, turbos, pan gasket, etc. My hubs and wheel bearings seem just fine so I didn't touch anything there. All the best to you, good job for taking this on yourself. You're right that it was easy to remove the front diff. I never disconnected the driveshaft to it. Just removed the 4 mounting bolts and set it aside on top of a bucket while I had the pan off.