acarpenter

Condensed story- project car, had belt suck issue, but completely cleaned out engine and oil pan, timing chain, valve cover. Fixed seals, new gaskets, the works. No bearing damage. New battery. Car will crank but doesn't seem to want to fire. Read codes with INPA and came up with a few under DME (digital motor electronics).

Firstly, is there anything in the computer that would keep it from starting as a protective measure after low oil pressure? Like a code clearing /reset scenario I guess.

Secondly, I have DME codes for:
mixture
crankshaft, outlet camshaft correlation
crankshaft, inlet camshaft correlation
gear control
radiator blind input signal
inlet vanos variable cam control test
misfire cylinder 5
power management, battery control

Where should I start... to get this thing started?

eugeneasaur

from what i recall reading, we don't have fuel pump relays and fuel delivery is delegated by the same set of circuits that control overall power management, which is why my car wouldn't start without a 30G. so i'd start with power management...

the main / auxiliary circuits pathway has a logic process that was mapped in another thread, i don't remember what for. do you have any spare compooters for the car? would be nice to simply try another set of modules. also, considering the car had been sitting for a while, is there any chance sections of it could have been submerged underwater? ie the trunk left side (TCU) or the right side (IBS fuse panels etc) or the drains in front of the passenger side firewall that go into the fender.

glgl my car has a whole nother set of problems... in its first snowstorm with me. running rough still unusual buzzing noises i'm attributing to worn pulleys but i'm still going to get a chance to slide this thing in the snow hopefully!

i

Gee_115

That's a lot of codes and not all related to each other. Since the car has been sitting I suggest giving the battery a good charge then try again. At a minimum the battery would be ruled out.

Don't want to scare you but low oil pressure could be a pump failure, if that is the case you could have some bent rods or other internal damage which would require an engine overall

acarpenter

The low oil pressure was because the oil uptake was clogged with shredded accessory belt. I think the pump is OK. Reason I think so is because I don't think I got the oil filter cap on tight enough (incorrect tool) and there was a touch of oil dripping after I tried to start it.

Unfortunately I don't know how old some of these codes are. They could've been there for years for all I know. I got CarFax and the service history was good up to about 100k, but the 23k after that I don't know. I'm wondering if the Vanos solenoids are dirty along with crankshaft sensor.

NoQuarter

All troubleshooting like this needs to start with clearing all the existing codes and troubleshoot what comes back.

acarpenter

Update:
Tested for spark, fuel pump seems to be working fine.
I also removed the eccentric shaft sensor and tried with no luck.
Battery is new and starter seems strong.

-Codes were cleared, tried to start and got DME code 2F0D which is 'radiator blind, input signal (GLF)'. I assume that is unrelated.
-Disconnected eccentric shaft sensor and got DME codes 2A31 and 2A32 along with 2A47 which I believe are all due to the eccentric shaft sensor being disconnected. I also have a DSC code 5EBA (steering shaft sensor) which should be unrelated to the no start.

Next step is to test for compression and via a different forum's suggestion, teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and test compression again. Fuel may have washed out the cylinders and minimized compression. Of course fuel pump relay must be removed or pump unplugged during that op. If no compression... then check timing. Which I will unfortunately not be able to do for a while. New baby due this week. But I did find a shop that will rent the timing tools for $100.

acarpenter

Huge update.
Had the baby so this was put on back burner.

Anyway, took valve cover back off and used VANOS tools to time engine. Intake was way off.
With engine in time, tested compression and got good levels of 180ish on all but cylinder 1 and 2, but I think it may have been my fault. Got different, higher values the second time.

Reassembled car and it started!

Bad news... throws a couple of codes and idles rough.

2A98 Intake camshaft correlation, then my best German translation in MSV70: outside of reference range
29D1 misfire cylinder 5, something about fuel cutoff
2FOD radiator blind, line interruption

Notes:
-I mechanically reset the valvetronic motor and attempted to perform relearn with ignition on and the ten gas pedal pumps but nothing seemed to happen.
-Plugs seemed pretty dang old, but I wanted to make sure engine wasn't trashed before ordering new.
-Same with valve cover breather tube. It was broken and I duct taped it together temporarily.

What is a good plan of action for the DME codes?