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Started getting a Passenger Restraint Malfunction code last week. Dealer reset my light twice....seems the headrest resistance was glitching. The tech told me he's seen where the wires get kinked/chaffed/frayed in the harness so he suggested I run new conductors and bypass the harness. I did that yesterday....had the code reset yesterday afternoon. Keeping my fingers crossed that this was indeed the fix.
Started getting a Passenger Restraint Malfunction code last week. Dealer reset my light twice....seems the headrest resistance was glitching. The tech told me he's seen where the wires get kinked/chaffed/frayed in the harness so he suggested I run new conductors and bypass the harness. I did that yesterday....had the code reset yesterday afternoon. Keeping my fingers crossed that this was indeed the fix.
so you have an 07, i have an 08. My seats are after they changed the headrest but your headrests are also wired?! I have the 20 way seats as well but my headrests have the full height folding wings whereas yours has the shorter ones that I find to tuck better into the neck.
I ordered new headrests like yours but they are not wired which means if I simply swap, the wiring connection is unresolved which results in very annoying red warning taking over info screens.
Any thoughts?
Why did you remove the whole seat?! The back panel comes off with access to headrest with seat in.
I'll be sort of pissed if I could've gotten the wired version and the idiots just chose the non wired one without thinking about it. Mine happen to be same "natural brown" as yours too.
I took some photos after a rain storm couple weeks ago and finally got around to uploading them tonight.
First, the business... at 19x9.5 ET23, the front perfectly fit the front M5 fenders. With the 265/35's, I get the slightest bit of rub on the front of the driver fender liner when I turn full passenger. This is slight enough that I'm not in a hurry to address it, but I plan to eventually use a heat gun and some messaging to open up the clearance. For the rears, I have 10mm BMS spacers with the M5 rear hubs. I might be able to go to 12mm if I don't mind an occasional rub. I haven't had the time to dump the air with INPA and re-measure.
Handling is vastly improved. The cornering limitation before was the front traction and understeer in the front, but now I reach the limits of my nerves before the limits of tire traction. I also feel like I have some work to do with the V3's to make some adjustments and get things really dialed.
And the icing on the cake is that the wide tires actually fall in fewer potholes on these sh*tty Chicago roads, so my ride quality has actually been better than on the 18" snow tires I had on this winter, despite the reduced sidewall size.
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Next up, I have some brand new Rays Volk G12's in 19x9.5 ET25 and 19x.10.5 ET22 to mount up with some staggered Michelin PSS. I learned the expensive lesson that a 295 is just too wide for the ol' e61 subframe/fender liner setup (even with my pulled and rolled fenders), so those were sold at quite a loss. I'll be testing 245/40-275/35 and 245/35-285/30 with the Rays just for fun to compare which of these three setups I like best.
"M5 rear hubs" - why was this done or needed? I am a tire over-sizer type because I do not lower cars and for my travel style, usually prefer no less or a little more ground clearance. However, I also run into fender liner rubbing issues as the upper/outer tire edge comes closer to the upper/inner fender edge.
I run 18" 245/45 on M3 8.5" wide wheels with ET 29.
Up front this ET on standard E61 fenders looks perfect and also fits perfectly in all conditions. At the rear they're fine as well but I was wanting a more flush look but with actual adapter spacers, not the thinner spacers that require longer bolts. So I tried HR 12mm I think and got tire edge shredding rub on any decent roadway dip. Very annoying to have spent $ on the nice spacers to find them unusable. Keep in mind these tires aren't even wide so no, I'm not going to start path of stretching to make tires tuck in a bit just to allow wheel face to flush out.
Besides, I like the sort of stout look the 18" tire sidewall creates by filling the fender gap fully all the way around the arch, not just at the top like when lowering It also just works well with this specific wheel design, tire shape/sidewall.
My Ride: e61 / KW V3 / JB4 / M5 Rear Sway / FDL Coded / SAT Retrofit w GKE flash / ER FMIC / BMS DCI
Model Year: 2010
Engine: N54
Originally Posted by norsecarnut
"M5 rear hubs" - why was this done or needed? I am a tire over-sizer type because I do not lower cars and for my travel style, usually prefer no less or a little more ground clearance. However, I also run into fender liner rubbing issues as the upper/outer tire edge comes closer to the upper/inner fender edge.
I run 18" 245/45 on M3 8.5" wide wheels with ET 29.
Up front this ET on standard E61 fenders looks perfect and also fits perfectly in all conditions. At the rear they're fine as well but I was wanting a more flush look but with actual adapter spacers, not the thinner spacers that require longer bolts. So I tried HR 12mm I think and got tire edge shredding rub on any decent roadway dip. Very annoying to have spent $ on the nice spacers to find them unusable. Keep in mind these tires aren't even wide so no, I'm not going to start path of stretching to make tires tuck in a bit just to allow wheel face to flush out.
Besides, I like the sort of stout look the 18" tire sidewall creates by filling the fender gap fully all the way around the arch, not just at the top like when lowering It also just works well with this specific wheel design, tire shape/sidewall.
M5 rear hubs were required for the M5 rear brakes to be a direct bolt-on. Those hubs shift the hub flange and brake rotor inboard by 20mm to match up with the calipers. This has the nice side effect of opening up even more wheel options with lower offsets.
I'm also running 19's so that I can clear the M5 brakes, because very few 18's clear them. The Style 250's do, but those are barely acceptable enough to use for winter wheels. So in my staggered setup, I over-size the tires as well. I jumped up to a 245/40/19 and 275/35/19 to keep the same amount of sidewall with the 19" wheels.
BTW, nice bike I rode an S-Works Enduro for a few years. I custom welded a Thule T2 + 2 with an extended length to shuttle DH bikes up fire roads on my lifted Land Cruiser on 40's, so I never had to worry about the impact of lowering the wagon. Now that I'm in Chicago with no fire roads in sight, I need a solution for hauling bikes on the wagon when the rooftop cargo box is on. What trailer hitch setup do you have for that rack?
so you have an 07, i have an 08. My seats are after they changed the headrest but your headrests are also wired?! I have the 20 way seats as well but my headrests have the full height folding wings whereas yours has the shorter ones that I find to tuck better into the neck.
I ordered new headrests like yours but they are not wired which means if I simply swap, the wiring connection is unresolved which results in very annoying red warning taking over info screens.
Any thoughts?
Why did you remove the whole seat?! The back panel comes off with access to headrest with seat in.
I'll be sort of pissed if I could've gotten the wired version and the idiots just chose the non wired one without thinking about it. Mine happen to be same "natural brown" as yours too.
Not sure what would be wired for the headrest....as best as I could tell, the headrest pops into the 'pushing' device that allows you to raise it or lower it. The wires I was dealing with are the firing wires for the gas chamber that pushes the headrest forward in a impact. I pulled the seat so I could access the opposite end where the wires end at the plug. I only left about 2" of the original wires on each end.
So far so good....Im keeping my fingers crossed that the light doesn't pop up again!
If you look at this photo, you can see where the chrome 'legs' pop on to the 'pusher/puller' thing.
As long as the legs are the same spread and girth, it should pop right in.
i like that m5 hub result. would be funny for me to do simply to allow more wheel flushing flexibility
The receiver is custom actually and I had them tilt it to keep the tail away on weird departures. That's why it looks sort of ramped up toward the sky - because it is slightly. My lr3 has a steel rear bumper with swing out tire carrier and on the end is a custom 2" receiver as well. This allows bikes to be up high while never in the way of rear hatch access. The wagon is used more in the winter than summer seeing as going skiing, I don't need as much space but also where you can get to is generally either plowed or inaccessible anyway. Otherwise in summer it's for longer road trips to hotel destinations or around the urban areas for basic day hikes.
For the hitch, it can be done with zero drilling into the body as they basically used the factory towing kit mount points and built custom from there. I wanted it tucked into the bumper cover for obvious reasons.
03-24-2018, 04:51 AM
It also just works well with this specific wheel design, tire shape/sidewall.
I rode an S-Works Enduro for a few years. I custom welded a Thule T2 + 2 with an extended length to shuttle DH bikes up fire roads on my lifted Land Cruiser on 40's, so I never had to worry about the impact of lowering the wagon. Now that I'm in Chicago with no fire roads in sight, I need a solution for hauling bikes on the wagon when the rooftop cargo box is on. What trailer hitch setup do you have for that rack?
