BIM530I

Hey Balb,

Thanks for the answer! What tire sizes would fit for those wheels and would I need spacers or do anything to keep the gaps from being wider than my current wheels; 123 on sport suspensions.

Thanks guys,

Daniel

Cwest

Daniel,

I hope I can answer some of the questions for you. The tire sizes you would run without spacers or rubbing issues would be Front 245/35 Rear 275/30.

As for the gap your talking about I'm a little confused there...? Are you talking about wheel gap or the stance of the car where you want your wheels to sit flush with your fenders? Daniel if your just talking about the wheel gap from the top of your tires to the fender then you would need to lower your car to close that gap up. If your speaking of the wheels looking too far inwards from a top view or back view then you would need spacers to bring out your offset which makes the wheel shit flush with your fenders. I hope my explaination will somewhat help you understand what your looking for. BTW these wheels are great for there price so pick them up if your looking for some decent looking wheels.

Jack

BIM530I

Hey Jack,

Thanks for more info!

I was referring to the gaps between the top of the tires and the fenders. I have seen guys with my car's make and model. When they change to new wheels and tires(19's), the gaps open up wider than what it was, originally. Why is that???

I am on 245/40/18 with 123 wheels and OEM sport suspensions. With the recommended tire sizes and the specs of the BBS relicas, will I be facing bigger gap issues?

BMW has been around for 83 years, you know... Unless the suspensions need to be replaced due to wears and tears, why should I mess with how they engineer "the ultimate driving machine"!!!?

What do I know? I am just a novice when it comes to car moddings...

Thanks,

Daniel

P.S Your car is looking much better with the OEM M kit, man! Or did you get a better photographer?

redEYEjedi

Well that really isn't the first thing that comes to mind when you try to differentiate between authentic BBS LM's and replicas. Authentic sets are forged 2 piece wheels. 2 piece meaning the barrel is 1 piece and the face is another. Replicas are 1 piece wheels cast wheels. You can do your own research on the differences between forged and cast wheels to decide which suits you best. They also do not have the width, diameter, offsets, and BBS stamped on the center face. Authentic LM's weigh about 26~28 lbs for 19's. Replicas, I cannot confirm, but you get what you pay for. Also, you cannot fit authentic BBS LM center caps on replicas, but then again, we hope nobody does that anyways.

Great price nonetheless! GL with the sale, but at that price it shouldn't take long to move.


Do it Daniel. The price looks just right for you and you get the look you wanted. You could even go big pimpin and put on some expensive tires.

Cwest

Daniel,

The reason being for getting the bigger gap is the tire series. Your stock 123 is an 40, when members change there tires they go down to an 35 which gets lower in tire profile, then that explains for the bigger wheel gap. I don't think you would want to run the same setup for your stock wheels to the 19's cause it would make your wheels look small with all that meat on there.

I think with the LCI conversion and better photo's i've been taking has made the car look sexier Thanks for the compliment. The OEM is the way to go if your thinking about fitment and quality.

-Jack

redEYEjedi

Hey Jack, his 18" wheels use a 40 profile, but when people run 19" wheels, they go with the lower 35 profile to balance the fact that the wheels are an 1" larger in diameter. Ultimately both sets should be running at the same rolling diameter if running the proper tire sizes. Isn't the wheel gap more of a visual effect for this example?

Running a 40 profile on 19" wheels means you are exceeding the original rolling diameter, which would also account for the likelihood of rubbing, even on stock sport suspension.

BIM530I

Hey Jack,

I thought the bigger "rims" would compensate for the smaller width of the tire walls (35'profile, as an example). Maybe the gaps(empty space between tires and fenders) become more noticeable when you get bigger and nicer or uglier "rims"???? Thus, I guess coilovers or a drop is a must...

Melvin, where can I go pimping with replicas BBS and expensive, thicker rubbers?

Guys, it looks like customized wheels is my answer. Or should I use the $5,000 (cost of good wheels and coilovers) for a nice vacation instead???

These mods don't end, do they? For me, it started with a small scratch in the front bumper... lol

Have a great weekend, guys!

cleung

I tried the 40 profile tires in the front on my 19's, and they are rubbing. Currently I am running 245-40-19 front and 275-35-19 rear (which are the factory f10 sizes) and now I have rubbing in the front when I turn going up curbs and driveways. So I would suggest sticking with the recommended 245-35-19 and 275-30-19 rubber.

BIM530I

Guys,

Thanks for giving this novice a good education on BBS and other stuff!

My philosophy is to either do it right or don't do it yet!

I must admit, the price and similarities in looks(?) is much affordable; even if you damage it, it's easy to change without spending much more money, anyways...(that I like ).

Okay, one last question (perhaps Melvin can answer since he owned the authentics), are the step lips the same in depth and width? And if one were to get them for his titanium silver car, which color would look better, solid silver or two tones (like the one listed for sale)?
Here is the link to my car pics with awaited suggestions: https://5series.net/forums/topic/112...0#entry1335670

Looks like I have made good decsions on the stuff you guys have recommended, thus far. Thanks to the awesome people on this forum!

Have a great day, guys!

BMW BRAD

^^^^^ This is what the forums are all about! ^^^^^ It's cool to see people willing to help people! Enough of the hating! To the guys that contribute, props to you!